M260 Install

[PDP]

Guys:

I am in the process of installing the M260 (tank mounted, shoot thru transducer) in the bildge.

Because of space constraints, I needed to move the bilge hose - and this seems like a good opportunity to replace it, and to replace the thru hull with a chrome over bronze as well.

I know Megabyte (and many others) have done that - but I couldn't find the particular thread here (or on THT) when I searched for it. Does anyone have a recommendation for a particular thru-hull, and know the size off hand?

While I am at it, what is the board's view of using ribbed vs. smooth tubing from the bilge pump?

Thanks!

 

[Claymar]

Not an expert by any means but have heard that ribbed pipe creates considerable back preasure. If thats the case a long run might cut the effectivness of your pump down. Personally, I like the bilge pump getting the water out as close to its rated capacity as possible.

 

[Megabyte]

PDP... Been out of town and just saw this thread.
Check out the thread at the link below, and let me know if it answers your questions.
If not, I'll try to fill-in the blanks. :wink:

http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=64

 

[FishPimp]

Lads,
preparing to finally do the electronics install on my 23SE this weekend and I have some ??'s. I am not moving batteries under the console I am going to put it in the bilge.
I wrote Farron about the Furuno 527 ducer aka M260 and asked him where to place it? I sent him a pic of my bilge and he very quickly responded with a mock up area photo.
So..... before I cut into this shelf and make a huge mistake I wanted to post here amungst the Parker experts to see if this is correct and or if there is a better option for placement.
Thanks!
and I will post pics after next weekends splash and bilge clean up!

 

[Outta Here]

I would put the transducer where Parker reccomends. Having said that, looks like a lot of trouble. Why not use the Airmar "Tilted-Element"? It works great and is a thru-hull which, IMO will always work better than an in-hull ducer.

Agree no need to move batteries. Not too sure I want batteries venting in console. The acid cannot be good for electrical connections. Not to mention the heavy wire that must be run from battery switch to batteries and back to motor.

You've got a huge console. I can store five 5 gallon buckets full of cast nets, reef anchor, extra oil, and whatever in mine. If you delete the "cooler insert under cushion" option, you can actually crawl inside to rig.

FWIW, take a look at the pic posted above. Notice how the wood in transom is cut around the drain plug fitting. Should the fitting leak (and they sometimes do), there's no wood in contact to rot. This way you get the strength of wood w/o risk of rot. Another way Parker takes care of us. :wink:

 

[Megabyte]

Not sure if this will help or not, but this is where I put my Airmar 'Tilted Element' transducer.

 

[Bryan 2530]

Not sure if this will help or not

After being around Classic Parker for a while I have come to the conclusion you just like showing off your bilge.

I think you should polish those fittings though. :lol:

 

[Megabyte]

Not sure if this will help or not

After being around Classic Parker for a while I have come to the conclusion you just like showing off your bilge.

Actually... that was last years photograph.
This is this years photo...
There is a little dirt there I need to attend to. :wink:

 

[Bryan 2530]

Well get on it then and make us all proud. I was doing a little bilge scrubbing yesterday on the 2530. By the end of summer I may give you a run for your money.

 

[FishPimp]

well the ducer has been marked, cut and glassed in. 4 more days till first splash.

 

[Megabyte]

Awesome!
I'll be interested in hearing how it performs. 8)

 

[PDP]

Fish:

I haven't checked over here in a while, and only saw your post today.

Looks like you are off to a clean instal. Let us know how it worked out.

I just installed that very transducer earlier this season (when I started this thread). I do not have a raw-water washdown on my 23SE, so I was able to (just barely) squeeze the mounting tank where your pick-up is located (aft of where you cut the platform and installed the tank). I'll say your job looks substantially more "pro" than mine. In any event, the sonar works on my boat as advertised - but I get fairly substantial interferance while up on plane, especially approaching WOT (not that that is much of an issue). As a result, I sometimes lose bottom lock. I suspect the intererence is caused by pressure waves from the prop, and might have been avoided if I could have mounted on the starboard side as recommended by Airmar. Your instal is further forward than mine, and you might avoid this issue.

For those considering this project: cutting the tank is a major PIA. I tried for the better part of a day using a hand saw. I finally relented and finished the job with an electric circular saw. It still wasn't the cleanest of cuts.

If I could do it over, I would mount the tank using silicon (even though it is no longer recommended) rather than Marine-Tex. It was early in the season when I did this, and I was working outside on a damp, low 50s kind of day. The Marine-Tex (in those conditions) was runny, and unbelievably messy. It finally set up and has not leaked - but silicon would have been substantially easier to work with, and I think would fill an uneven cut better. Also, it could be removed and reapplied (if that became necessary).

Finally, in my mounting location (the only available unless I cut the platform), there was a thin but substatnial air void in the layup. It required that I spend a few hours grinding fiberglass with a DeWalt to get the air bubble out. In the end, I am happy - but I wish you did this before I did, so I could have stolen your mounting ideas!!

 

[FishPimp]

The 260 performed amazingly. After splashing this weekend I am realizing how much more homework I need to do with regard to the extensive electronics that I have on my boat. We got the FP up around 39 knots and we still had bottom...most of the time. We did loose bottom a few times. Compared to the P66 that we were using this unit blew it out of the water.
I will take some photos next time I am on the boat. My initial response to the shoot through is holy sh*t! Am I cheating?

 

[warthog5]

I suspect the intererence is caused by pressure waves from the prop, and might have been avoided if I could have mounted on the starboard side as recommended by Airmar.

Why don't people follow directions?

I've removed saltwater pickups on 2 boats that were mounted on the STB side to install X-ducers and the reinstall the pickups on the port side.

Next question is how is the X-ducer cable run? Does it run inside the rigging tube with all the other power wires?

 

[FishPimp]

WH,
we pulled the the new ducer cable in the same run that the previous owner had his ducer cable. Yes there were some power cables in the run.
Curious now why you ask.[/code]

 

[PDP]

[

quote="warthog5"]

I suspect the intererence is caused by pressure waves from the prop, and might have been avoided if I could have mounted on the starboard side as recommended by Airmar.

Why don't people follow directions?

______
Well, I won't speak for FP. In my particular case, the only way I could mount on the starboard side was by cutting the shelf in the bilge, and that simply wasn't a project that I (personally) wanted to do at this point. I was aware of the compromise, and made it with eyes open. Airmar indicates that either port or starboard is acceptable, but that starboard is "preferable" (do to prop interference at speed).

In any event, if the real estate were available, I would have mounted on the other side - and based upon what I have seen in a friend's boat, probably could have painted a clean picture at WOT had I done so - so if others are contemplating this install, you should be aware of that.

I don't pay attention to the fish-finder when blasting around. At 25-30 mph and slower, I get a clean picture, and consistent depth reading. At about 30 mph to WOT (45 on my boat), I always lose a clear picture, and sometimes lose the bottom (depth reading) if it is choppy and I am getting banged around.

In conditions where I am actually looking at the sounder (0-20 mph?) the picture to my eye is indistinguishable from the starboard install that I am familiar with (which is on a Regulator). So, I am happy with the install compromise I made.

My transducer cable is not run through the rigging tube, but it is in close proximity to all of my power lines once inside my console - but I don't suspect electrical interference based upon what I am seeing, and when I am seeing it. Am I wrong about that Wart?

 

[warthog5]

This is for where I live.

Someone is always looking at the FF. You never know when your going to run across and find your next fishing hot spot.

That's why the pix at all speeds is important to me. I have found as many as 6 new spots in one day.

I always try and take a different route so I'm not covering the same ground time & time again.