More Problem X-ducer

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warthog5

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In following up from another thread. viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14404

This just rolled in the driveway. 25 Grady W/A

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See where the ball valve is to the left of the float switch?......That is where it belongs.

The symptoms are...Sitting still.....and rocking the FF loses bottom. This Grady has a steep deadrise and as all steep deadrise boats do, they "snap Roll".

They rock over and then Snap back......Rock over and then Snap back. That is putting air across the face of the X-ducer due to the fact that it was mounted high.

It was mounted high for 2 reasons. Lazy ass installer didn't want to move the pickup for the washdown. Or.......They just plain don't know.

Now I have to remove it and glass the hull up. Then remount it.
 
Ugly screws directly into a cored transom to boot ... on the transom mount xducer.
 
warthog5":2zhs354b said:
It was mounted high for 2 reasons. Lazy ass installer didn't want to move the pickup for the washdown. Or.......They just plain don't know.

Probably a little of both. :wink:
 
Its a damn shame that many "so called professionals" can't do a proper install to save their lives.

-Since my install problem I have discovered a wealth of transducer information on where to mount it.
The closer to the keel you locate the transducer the better. On the Keel is the "Best Location".

Please keep us up to date with the results after you remove and relocate the transducer.

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In my many phone conversations with Airmar, Gemeco, Classic Parker, Parker Boats and a Dozen or so Electronic Stores I have found Airmar No longer makes a Zero Degree Flush Mount Transducer.
-Only 12 and 20 Degree Elements now. Its a damn shame because I have a flat spot on the keel that would be perfect for a Zero Degree.
 
Billy V":2veoiku0 said:
In my many phone conversations with Airmar, Gemeco, Classic Parker, Parker Boats and a Dozen or so Electronic Stores I have found Airmar No longer makes a Zero Degree Flush Mount Transducer.
-Only 12 and 20 Degree Elements now. Its a damn shame because I have a flat spot on the keel that would be perfect for a Zero Degree.

The reason is because on most boats, mounting directly on the keel is not possible.
The DV Parker is the exception, rather than the rule.

Because mounting *closest to the keel* is preferred, that is why Airmar sells the 'tilted element' transducer in 12 and 20 degree versions.
It allows the 'ducer to shoot relatively straight down while accounting for the deadrise at the mounted location.
 
Note the Jaggedy-ass hole.....Didn't even have the proper size holesaw and used a Dremal tool to open the hole up.

This actually fell into my favor. It made it easier to get the Xducer out, because I could rock it in the hole.


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What is the procedure here to fill that hole?
Make a backing, then fill the cutout, top with a patch, then feather it?
 
To repair that hole, start on the inside. grind a taper in the glass 12 times the thickness of the hole, that is if the hole (laminate) is 3/8 thick you would grind out 4 1/2" from the hole and taper it. Put tape over the outside and lay up alternating layers of fiberglass mat and cloth in increasing diameters until you cover the entire repair, and have the thickness. Now do the same on the outside. fill fair and gelcoat or paint.
 
Yep....Agree, But it will not happen quite that way on this one.

Reason being.....is the Stringers will not allow you to.
 
The job is finished, but not after replacing the fuse panel also. Grady White's electrical leave a lot to be desired.

Not only was the X-Ducer installed in the wrong place, but the electronic's were not getting clean power.

The boat was water tested this morning. The unit will hold bottom @ 40MPH. which is On the Pin's for the 2- 150 Yamaha's.
 
LOL.....Very carefully. :)

Grind the hull from the inside and beveling it back. Cutting alternating fiberglass disc's of 1 1/2oz mat and 1708.

A piece of waxed Formica taped to the outside of the hull.

That's the basic's , but there is more to it.
 
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