My first Major Issue. I have Questions.

[Smittles1179]

Hey Guys,

I'm starting my fourth season with my Parker 2120 with a Yamaha 150 4 stroke. Everything was great until yesterday's trip. (third of the year)
I was out at the West Wall fishing. As I moved to a new location and trimmed the motor, the power cut out for a second. I let go of the button and everything came back up and continued to run. I should have headed back. I didn't. During the course of the day about four times while trimming the motor the power cut out for about a second and came back up. after a day of fishing while heading in, WITHOUT touching the Trim (on the handle) the boat cut out and motor stalled. I set her into neutral and she started back up. We made it about a 1/4 mile more and the motor Cut out and would not restart. (again without touching the trim) Checked all the fuses on the motor and all are good. we anchored, Pan Pan...Seatow. home port. This morning in yard, Same thing. It won't start, turns over, smells of gas if you turn her to long. won't start. any ideas?

Captain Smittles.

 

[Miss Virgie II]

Might be a long shot, but it sounds like a fuel issue. We were on a friend's boat last weekend and he has the same motor as you. We were running and his motor just quit on him. He had never had an issue with his motor prior to this. After giving it a lot of gas, it started up again. Everything ran fine for about another hour and the same thing happened, but this time it wouldn't start back up. We drained the fuel/water separator, and all looked fine there. We then noticed that when he changed the fuel filter (on the motor) her didn't spin the plastic container all the way into the housing, which was allowing it to draw air. We tightened that up and she ran great the rest of the day. He went out again yesterday and was trouble free. Again, it is a long shot, but worth a check.... Good luck!

 

[Luv2fish]

I'm betting electrical. Trim pulls a lot if power so something has a bad connection. That may have caused something to fail on the motor but the symptoms that lead up to that sound like a bad connection somewhere. If you can pull a spark plug and have someone turn it over to see if there is spark there that is a start. These are tough to trouble shoot but I take them one step at a time. Since it is turning over that means there is power to the motor. Is there a spark would be my next step.

 

[HOTPURSUIT]

Clean the battery terminals. The computers need a steady 12 v to run. When you hit the trim it dropped the voltage and I'm guessing your battery wasn't taking a charge from a dirty connection. The same thing happened to me a few years ago. Hope that's it its a simple fix

 

[Bryan 2530]

Check the ground on the side of the engine, may be loose or corroded.

Also, how old is the battery?

 

[Smittles1179]

Battery's. All three are brand new this year. Also ran on battery one and thought the same thing so switched to second fully charged battery and it still wouldn't start. Also one time when my battery was low when I turned the key to start the electronics went out. But this time electronics and lights and everything were strong. No dimming. Everything works.

 

[DaleH]

Check the ground on the side of the engine, may be loose or corroded.

Ditto, check all major connections, even resistance check them. Something could be stealing the volts, shorting to ground, and if/when the computer doesn't see 11-volts or more, she'll crank ALL DAY LONG, but will never start.

 

[Smittles1179]

Thanks Guys,

I'll look at it when I get home from work and let you know how it worked out.

Smittles
(Purchased in April 2014 on sale $205)
Reference of battery:
DieHard Platinum Marine Battery Group Size 31M

Group Size:
31M
Power Configuration:
Number of Cells:
6
Power Ratings:
Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate:
100
Capacity Amp Hours at 10 Hour Rating:
92
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F):
1150
Reserve Capacity (RC):
205 min.
Design & Construction:
Battery Design:
Absorbed Glass Mat
Container Material:
Polycarbonate/polyester

 

[Megabyte]

I agree with the others.
If the issue began while trimming the motor, that would indicate an electrical issue.

As others have indicated, I'd check the motor ground first, then work backwards.
Another indication was when your electronics blanked during cranking. That is always a clue of an electrical issue.

New batteries good... but the possibility exists you got a bad one (or two). Not typical, but it does happen.
The battery place where I buy mine always load test new batteries on the bench while you watch, so you know going out the door that they are good.
Guy told me they occasionally find a bad one. That is why they do it.

My bet is being placed on the motor ground.

 

[warthog5]

Also ran on battery one and thought the same thing so switched to second fully charged battery and it still wouldn't start.

So what is common about both of those?

Your Ground cables
The connection @ the Perko switch to the motor
The connection @ the motor.

Possible bad cable also @ those points.


Check those.

 

[DaleH]

... once had a Guest battery switch so loaded with corrosion that the OB wouldn't start with new batteries or cables. And to make troubleshooting worse, it was temperature dependent. Go out when the OB was cold and she's start up. But after running, she wouldn't crank. Remember, corrosion = heat = increased resistance.

 

[kidfreediver]

Alternator

 

[Luv2fish]

Did you figure out what the problem was yet? Curious minds want to know. Hope it wasn't too serious.

Steve

 

[TopShot25]

Had the exact same issue once. Hit the trim button and it acted like a kill switch. Loose ground connection somewhere.

 

[Smittles1179]

So I found the main ground to the engine loose and removed and tightened. I cleaned both batteries and connections and put them I. The correct order. Voltage was 13.4 and when you turn the key drops to 12.5 but she won't turn over. The gas pump bulb was a little soft so I tried to pump it up until it got hard. Then I noticed inside the engine a couple drips from the glass fuel filter or seperatetor. Not enough time in the day. I need to check the plugs to see if fouled. Plus the a/b switch. If I get the chance I'll check more today.

 

[Luv2fish]

So I found the main ground to the engine loose and removed and tightened. I cleaned both batteries and connections and put them I. The correct order. Voltage was 13.4 and when you turn the key drops to 12.5 but she won't turn over. The gas pump bulb was a little soft so I tried to pump it up until it got hard. Then I noticed inside the engine a couple drips from the glass fuel filter or seperatetor. Not enough time in the day. I need to check the plugs to see if fouled. Plus the a/b switch. If I get the chance I'll check more today.

That ground could have been the initial cause of the problems. When you say "turn over" are you meaning the starter does not engage? I've had some people use the term meaning it doesn't fire and start.

If the starter does not engage when you turn the key (and the voltage is dropping like that) it sounds like another short somewhere. Could even be the starter is bad, causing that much draw. Are you checking the voltage draw at the battery or at the starter?

Steve

 

[Smittles1179]

battery drop. from the battery not the starter. the term turn over as I'm using it means - the starter engages, and it tries to start, but never fires over or runs. starter sounds good. this is a motor that would start every time on the first turn of the key. now it just tries to start but won't fire or turn over. it's almost like it's not getting fuel, but the original power issue when hitting the trim makes me think I'm missing something. If I get the chance I'll look at it some more today.

 

[Luv2fish]

The power at the battery is not what is important. It is the power at the engine that might be this issue. Since the starter is turning the engine over there is power there but is it sufficient to actually start the motor. I would try to see what the voltage is at the engine.

The next step after that is to make sure there is a spark in the spark plugs. You could have blown a fuse or coil with a surge or heated connection due to the loose wire. It would take 2 people but pull the plugs and hold one against the side of the cylinder block with the plug wire connected so it is grounded to see if it is firing. If not you still have an electrical issue somewhere. If it is firing the next step is fuel. That same power issue could have damaged a fuel pump too.

These are a bear to troubleshoot without the a full Yamaha diagnostic set but it can be done if you take a logical step by step approach.

Steve

 

[Smittles1179]

So when I get home, I'll check the Perko battery selector switch and the Plugs. (to see if they are fouled) Thanks for the suggestions. I'll keep you posted on the solution.

 

[miky2884]

Even if the plugs are fouled it wont make it not at least fire over. Fouled plugs I would say are not your problem. Even if it was fuel related the motor should at least fire. Run rouugh and erratic yes but should still fire. Definitely sounds electrical.