Need gelcoat help

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WhalinDave

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So I bought the small container of Parker gel coat and catalyst from Cecil Marine. I have a few small gel coat repairs to a fish hold hatch. According to the directions on the catalyst, I should use 12 drops per ounce of gel coat in my temperature range. After a day and a half, all the repairs are still tacky and some areas are wet. Talked to Joe at Cecil. He suggested I wipe off all the uncured stuff and start over using 20 drops per ounce. This produced the same results. Yesterday, I tried 30 drops per ounce. Today there are several areas that are still tacky....
I am running out of this expensive gel coat with all the do overs....What am I doing wrong?????
 
My guess is the catalyst you are using is past its useful shelf life. General rule of thumb is a year from date of manufacture.
 
Another comment

Some gelcoat contains wax to create an anaerobic (air less) seal for it to setup. Mix well before using and doesn't need PVA but if sprayed on will not interfere with the curing

If gelcoat does not have wax then use PVA or cover to create an anaerobic environment

Clean up, redo and spray a film of PVA . Cecil has it online but cost less locally


Store unused gelcoat in the refrig
 
Are you covering the repair with wax paper? The repair needs the vapors to help it harden. If not, I suggest you try one small area. Cover it with wax paper and seal the edges with blue painter's tape. It's best if the wax paper isn't touching the fresh gel coat; but, if it does it will be ok. You'll just have a little more sanding to do. It won't stick to the gel coat when it hardens.

From the top:
Make sure you sand all of the edges out of the defect. It should be a smooth indent (almost a dimple) when you start to fill it. Mix the color (if needed see below). Add the hardener and mix completely. Over fill the defect. If it is deep it will need more than one application. Cover with wax paper and tape the wax paper all the way around to seal the repair. Take any left over material and put it on a piece of wax paper. Fold the wax paper on itself the seal the gel coat. That will be your test piece to make sure it's hardened. I try flexing it after about an hour (usual cure time) to see if it has set. Once it has set pull the wax paper apart and see if it is still tacky. If it is fold the paper again and wait. After your happy with the test piece then pull the wax paper off the repair and do the same until it is hard. Wet sand with 800 grit and water with a couple of drops of soap in it. If needed, rinse and repeat until it is completely filled. Finish by wet sanding with some 1000 grit. To get the shine back 3M rubbing compound.

I have had luck with the gel coat repair kit from West Marine. The hardest part is getting the color just right. I have found, the white that comes in the kit is very close (without any other shades) it just takes how much white you put in to get it there. If you add too much white just add a little more gel until you're happy. You have plenty of time to get it right if you mix the gel and the color before you put the hardener in. Once your happy with the color then add the hardener.

I used this method when I, unfortunately, tapped a raised concrete dock with the corner of my transom. Only I know the repair is there because the color is that close.
 
I’ve used the same gelcoat from Cecil with good results. I used a heat gun to warm the area before applying it and after as well to gently keep the area warm to help the wax rise


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Thanks for the replies.
On the fourth try, After applying the gel coat, I placed the hatch out in the sun and sprayed a heavy coating of wax on it. Let it sit outside all day. The next day I cleaned up all the wax off and found that all the repair areas seemed to cure OK. I may have to go over some of the areas again because I can't seem to get a thick enough coat on it. I have a couple future repairs that are on a vertical surface and am wondering if there is a way to thicken it or just wait long enough for it to start to cure before applying.
 
I’ve used cabosil to thicken gel coat to apply on my keel with good results. Add it a little at a time to get the consistency your looking for (it changes quickly)


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Here is a repair I did. It’s not perfect but I’m happy with the results. I used thickened gelcoat for the repair.
0b0a97658f245948d06a5042442dfda8.jpg
44a069284777f5e36a9c1b4a9997719d.jpg
5c96d67bcc8f495b16def786b782ccd7.jpg



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Gelcoat does not need to be mixed with anything. To put it on vertical surface you can put couple of layers of blue painters tape around the area. Put clear packing tape on one side and tape it as you put gelcoat sealing it. This will contain it as well as make anaerobic conditions for it to harden. You will sand an excess of gelcoat after it hardens with wet to dry paper and will be good as new. Remember that gelcoat has NO structural strength and cannot be put too thick. You use fiberglass for that.
 
mheltunen....Your problem If you haven't already discovered will return....The reason is that dumb trailer setup. They are notorious for doing that.

Dump that V'd PVC and pad. Install 2 Forward keel bunks.....It will also load easier, as you drive the boat onto the trailer. The Keel bunks will grab the keel and guide the boat straight to the winch stand.


100_4283.jpg~original
 
warthog5":1iskuyub said:
mheltunen....Your problem If you haven't already discovered will return....The reason is that dumb trailer setup. They are notorious for doing that.

Dump that V'd PVC and pad. Install 2 Forward keel bunks.....It will also load easier, as you drive the boat onto the trailer. The Keel bunks will grab the keel and guide the boat straight to the winch stand.


100_4283.jpg~original

Thanks wart and I agree. I added this
465788f237974eb8c497fbfc5ccbf246.jpg


In my area we cannot power load at any ramps so that out of the question. The newer setup with the roller has worked perfectly this past season but if for any reason the problem returns I intend to change it out to dual bunks like your picture.


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