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rplas48

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Hi folks. Just bought used a 2006 Parker 2120 sport cabin 150 hp 4 stroke with trailer from a private party. Boat looks great and spent a lot less than through a dealer. Replaced the fuel water seperator with a Racor R320.

Have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with.

I think the transom has a wood core. Any concerns with water eventually getting to the wood from the screws holding the trim tabs. Was thinking of taking the tabs off and using a penetrating epoxy in the holes and refastening. Is this overkill?? Same for the deck fittings and hatches. Had problems with a previous boat where water from a poorly sealed access hatch caused delamination in a section of deck.

On previous boats also had problems keeping bottom paint on the trim tabs despite using metal primer. Any body have the tabs power coated and then botom paint??

The boat didn't have a pulpit so I am thinking about adding a roller mount like the west marine URM-2. I think it can extend far enough to keep the anchor flukes from the hull. Any thoughts.

Thanks rplas48
 

DaleH

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Welcome aboard :) !

rplas48":886knqxl said:
Was thinking of taking the tabs off and using a penetrating epoxy in the holes and refastening. Is this overkill??
I don't think so for the tabs, in fact, what I did would then be waaaaaay more overkill :shock: !

I drill an oversized hole and then wet it out with thin epoxy, using a syringe. Once it kicked, I filled it with thickened epoxy and let this set. Then I drilled a tap drill size to hold the screw. Even there I still used 3M 5200 on the screws, but I put the screws through a candle first, then lightly wipe them so the wax serves as a release agent. The epoxy plug isolates the core and leaves about a 1/16" barrier between the screw and the raw wood core.

Works for me ...

On deck and hatch hardware, I simply wet out with the thinned epoxy or even 5-minute epoxy, like I do when putting in new rod holders.

On previous boats also had problems keeping bottom paint on the trim tabs despite using metal primer. Anybody have the tabs power coated and then botom paint??
I don't but I can tell you that the proper metal finishing method is a 3-step method. First you acid etch the tab plane and then add a rubber-based tie coat primer. Then you can add your regular bottom paint on the tabs, as the rubber isolates the copper in the anti-fouling paint from the 304 series SS of the tab plane, which prevents galvanic corrosion (corrosion caused by dis-similar metals). Pettit's 3-part system works the best ... from what I've read.

Personally, I just wax mine and keep them wiped down.

The boat didn't have a pulpit so I am thinking about adding a roller mount like the west marine URM-2. I think it can extend far enough to keep the anchor flukes from the hull.
If you've seen my boat, I added a wood pulpit. IMHO you need to have the roller at least 12" from the front of the hull.

Nice rig you got there :D !
 

Porkchunker

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Welcome to the board. Sounds like you been doing a lot of research before you purchased. Not many folks know about rebedding the hardware to keep water out of a transom.

When I went to the factory and watched some hulls being built, the plywood in the transom didn't appear to go all the way to the bottom of the hull. Appeared to be a solid section of glass about 2" up from the bottom of the hull before the wood started. Could be wrong, but that is what it looked like. If that is the case, then the screws for the tabs go into glass, not wood. But Parker seems to bed everything in 3M 5200, 4200, or 4000. My windlass (see windlass replacement thread in the projects forum) was bed in 4000. My tabs and motor bracket appear to be bedded in 5200. Shouldn't have to worry about water intrusion into the wood.

You could probably e-mail Robin at Parker and ask her if the trim tab screws go into wood or glass on your model, and what sealant they bedded them in.
 

johnsw

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Welcome. I've got an '04 2120, and have been very happy with it.

As already mentioned, someone at Parker should be able to give you details on what they do when they mount the trim tabs, and what kind of risk there might be. It's been only a short time, but no apparent water problems around the hardware. Deck plate bedding also seems to be still holding up well.

As for paint on the trim tabs, each year it has not held up as well as the prior year. I'd say most of the bottom paint had worn off after the first 8 weeks in the water this season. Like Dale implied, the secret is in the prep work. I'll be going the tie-coat primer route next season the see how that works out.

I've got the factory pulpit, so can't help you there.

John
 

DaleH

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Porkchunker":2f109e5h said:
Appeared to be a solid section of glass about 2" up from the bottom of the hull before the wood started.
Wow! I'll confirm with Parker just to be sure on my '92 vintage hull.
 

rplas48

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Guys, thanks for the input. Dale if you get a reply from Parker as to the height of glass on the transom please let me know as it will save a lot of work. I liked your approach and had used something similar 20 years ago on a Hunt designed Hi-liner boat. If I don't have to take off the tabs I'll try the process you described.
Mounted some antenas on the hard top and found that the core was balsa. Still used epoxy followed with silicon sealant. Will use the sealant you folks recommend for the rest.

Thanks again
Ray
 

rplas48

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Johnsw. ..does your boat have the 150 F and if so what prop do you use. Mine has a SS 14 1/4 by 16 and turns about 5400-5500rpm wide open and trimmed. Yamaha tests were done with the 13 3/4 by 17. Since I cruise at about 4000 I dont know if it makes sense to change unless there will be better efficiency with the 13 3/4.

Anybody have thoughts as to the best prop.

Thanks in advance

Ray
 

Porkchunker

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DaleH":2lhmte1t said:
Porkchunker":2lhmte1t said:
Appeared to be a solid section of glass about 2" up from the bottom of the hull before the wood started.
Wow! I'll confirm with Parker just to be sure on my '92 vintage hull.
It has been several years since I was at the factory (2002), but that is what I recollect. I especially remember the large cutout around the transom plug...the screws in that plug were definately in glass and didn't touch wood.

I suspect Robin is monitoring this site, so maybe she will pop on here with a pic of the construction process of the transom.
 

Megabyte

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rplas48":18z5d2fr said:
The boat didn't have a pulpit so I am thinking about adding a roller mount like the west marine URM-2. I think it can extend far enough to keep the anchor flukes from the hull.
Adding a factory pulpit probably wouldn't cost much for the part - it's the relocating (or replacement) of the hardware that you need to think about.



The nav light you have now is probably a single, which would have to be swapped for separates. The bow cleats might have to be relocated too.
The standard bow rail would probably still work, so long as the forward mounts clear.

It can be done... you just need to plan for the details.
Congratulations on the new ride, and welcome aboard CP! :)
 

rplas48

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thanks Kevin. I was thinking of just adding a roller mount, and a center cleat. That way I can leave the two existing cleats where they are and only replace the nav light. I think I can get a roller mount about 20 or so inches long which will give me a 6 or 7 inch overhang ...enough I hope to clear the flukes on a danforth.

Does your boat have a drain for the anchor rode compartment? Mine doesn't but there is a very thin layer of fiberglass at the V at the bottom of the compartment. If I put a drain hole there I think it will drain to the bilge. I don't want to to go through the hull itself.
Thanks

Ray
 

Megabyte

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rplas48":2anfl5xi said:
Does your boat have a drain for the anchor rode compartment?
It does... The anchor chain locker drains to the midship bilge area through a pipe which you can see at the top of this photo of the midship bilge.



From there, the water is shipped aft to the rear bilge area.



I'm suprised your chain locker does not have a drain.
 

rplas48

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Me to. Don't have a mid ship bilge pump or access port there either. Just a drain in the cabin floor right before the door. I'll call Parker Monday.

Thanks
Ray
 

johnsw

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Sorry for the delay. I've been away from the computer for a few days.

I've got the 150 hp base carb 2 stroke (150TXRC). If memory is correct, its got the SS 14-1/2 X 16 prop. Seems to perform well enough with it, that I don't think about switching it out for something else. Max RPM is about 5500 RPM, giving me about 38 mph. Depending on trim, I can probably squeak out a couple more mph, but I rarely run WOT. Usually in the 4600 rpm area when conditions cooperate. Plenty of speed for what I need.

John
 

rplas48

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Thanks for the reply. I have the F150 with a polished ss 14 1/4 by 16 prop. At wot and trimmed the rpms are about 5400. I don't run at wot either, rather at about 4100-4200rpm. But I always thought the correct prop should allow the engine to reach max rpm which for the F150 is 6000. Ranger Tim has a good take on props and in the spring I intend to try 2 other props I have one being the 13 3?4 by 17 that yamaha ran the tests on.

Ray
 

Ranger Tim

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oooh oooh, I suddenly have a grossly over-inflated opinion of myself! I've been complimented on Classic Parker! ... They say that those who hold themselves in high regard are seldom disappointed.

Thanks for the kind words guys. I hope the prop search is fruitful for y'all. There seems to be a bit of variation in results between my boat and some other's, perhaps because of my own extreme girth. :lol:
 

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