New Parker, HORRIBLE Ride

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
J

J876

Active member
Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
40
Reaction score
2
I have a brand new 2520 XL that I got earlier this year with a single 300hp Yamaha outboard. The boat is beautiful but the only problem is I can't take it in the ocean. If there's even a slight 1 foot swell the boat pounds like crazy. Multiple guests have gotten seasick despite the ocean looking like a lake on those days. I'm not sure what else to do. I have the trim tabs all the way down and engine trimmed up. Once the boat is up on plane (only 24-25 mph) it starts bouncing around like it's in 5-6 foot seas despite it being calm. If I don't bring it up on plane and go 16-18 mph it's a little more tolerable. I was told this was a rough ride and not meant for trips to the canyon, and I was fine with that as I don't do much offshore fishing. But I can't even go 2-3 miles off the beach with this thing. I'm at the point now where I'm willing to pay an extra $50,000 and trade it in for a XLD because I can't enjoy the boat as is. I've read people have installed larger trim tabs and that's made a difference. Does anyone have any recommendations? Or am I stuck?
 
Try trimming the motor down. Sounds like you have it trimmed up (that's what you said as well).

The boat shouldn't be "bouncing around" in relatively light seas. You should be able to easily take that boat 50 miles offshore (or more) without anyone getting sea-sick in reasonable seas. It's a very stable hull.

Try trimming down. Use trim tabs if needed. A Permatrim would help too.
 
When you say 'bouncing' do you mean pounding or porposing or something else?
 
MartyL said:
When you say 'bouncing' do you mean pounding or porposing or something else?
Click to expand...

I mean pounding and porpoising. When I'm on plane it doesn't feel like it's "cutting" through the waves and swells, more like I'm riding up each wave and then pounding down in the trough or into the next wave. I have my trim tabs all the way down and clearly on plane. .

Goodchance - I've tried the engine in multiple positions while on plane and nothing seems to work. Again we're not talking about a 3 foot chop (I don't think I'd even be able to go fast enough in a 3 foot chop to stay on plane). I'm talking about 1-2 footers. It's a shame because WOT I can hit just over 40mph but I can't use any of that speed except for if I'm in the bay and it's like glass.
 
One thing I can think of is there is a possibility that your engine is not at the correct engine height? check that you're planing tabs/cavitation tabs are flush with the bottom of the boat when the motor is trimmed all the way down.
 
J876 said:
I mean pounding and porpoising. When I'm on plane it doesn't feel like it's "cutting" through the waves and swells, more like I'm riding up each wave and then pounding down in the trough or into the next wave. I have my trim tabs all the way down and clearly on plane. .
Click to expand...


riding up and pounding down sounds like engine trimmed up too much despite trim tab position. porpoising too.

where is the “weight” in the boat (?) is there 4/5 adults, all sitting in the cockpit - maybe a cockpit bench seat? every 150-200# person will materially effect handling.

no disrespect, but are you an experienced pilot?
 
I can count the number of times that I had to operate with trim tabs all the way down on my thumbs. That buries the bow, and causes bow steer in many cases. Tabs all the way down, and engine up, are just fighting each other.
Try with the tabs all the way UP, trim your motor so that the bow wake is about under your feet, and only use tabs to level the boat side-to-side.
 
Last edited:
PKS1801 is correct on the best way to try and alleviate the bad ride. Unfortunately it will only help slightly. I have a 2004 2520XL, have owned several offshore boats, been boating for 40+ years and the ride on mine still sucks. I know it is hard to make yourself do it, but try getting up on top of the waves by increasing the speed. Won't work if you have real steep waves but if the waves have some width to them it will ride better at a higher speed than just trying to find a smooth slower speed. The best way I have found to compensate for the ride is go with someone younger who can handle the pounding, let them drive and I sit in the back on a bean bag.
 
Sorry to hear about your disappointment. I agree that it is a hard ride, hence the shock absorber seats. I found it bearable at 19 to 23 MPH when there is a large chop. When the waves are at 6 second intervals or better I can get it going much faster with a fairly comfortable ride. With the modified V what you give up in go fast mode you get back when sitting and drifting. It is all about compromise. Just curious, didn't you do a sea trial?
 
Yea you are counteracting the boat....."Tabs down..Engine Up"

We set the engine level......Then use the tabs. People get sick all the time.....Those that don't have sea legs anyway. Engine gets moved VERY little thru the day....
 
I agree they are not the smoothest riding boats especially in a head sea but I saw a huge difference in mine when I switched to a 4 blade prop. My Stern lift was remarkably better and my boat pounded significantly less. I run a 2320 but the 4 blade made a huge difference. Don't know what wheel you are running?
 
For offshore runs you need a deep v .. take it back and get the xld not sure why for offshore you would get MV
 
Porpoising is a sure sign that something is set wrong. I owned a 2520 w/225 Yamaha for 2 years. I found the 225 to be not quite enough power to cruise at 25 mph at anything other than full throttle. I went offshore many times in New England, often to 60 miles and occasionally to 100 miles. It's not a 40 foot boat so you pick your weather but I DID NOT HAVE THE PROBLEM YOU SEEM TO BE HAVING. I agree completely with the comment that the trim tabs are most useful for side to side balance. Sure, a little trim tab to change planing characteristics but IMHO full down would NEVER be needed in anything resembling the conditions you are describing. The design of the boat (maximized cockpit space and helm station well forward of the middle of the boat) does cause the helmsman to feel the pounding more but not like you have described.

I truly hope you bought from an authorized dealer. Go back to them, explain the problem and ask them to send someone out with you who knows what the performance should be.

Good luck. I'm too old to be fishing much anymore but I'd love to own your boat!
 
J876 said:
I have a brand new 2520 XL that I got earlier this year with a single 300hp Yamaha outboard. The boat is beautiful but the only problem is I can't take it in the ocean. If there's even a slight 1 foot swell the boat pounds like crazy. Multiple guests have gotten seasick despite the ocean looking like a lake on those days. I'm not sure what else to do. I have the trim tabs all the way down and engine trimmed up. Once the boat is up on plane (only 24-25 mph) it starts bouncing around like it's in 5-6 foot seas despite it being calm. If I don't bring it up on plane and go 16-18 mph it's a little more tolerable. I was told this was a rough ride and not meant for trips to the canyon, and I was fine with that as I don't do much offshore fishing. But I can't even go 2-3 miles off the beach with this thing. I'm at the point now where I'm willing to pay an extra $50,000 and trade it in for a XLD because I can't enjoy the boat as is. I've read people have installed larger trim tabs and that's made a difference. Does anyone have any recommendations? Or am I stuck?
Click to expand...
We have the 2520 XLD with 300 Yamaha so I know this is not a perfect comparison, but trying this might help. We seldom use the tabs, and when we do it's just to level the boat side-to-side. When getting up on plane I tuck the motor down, then raise it back to near level as I'm coming on plane; then it stays at that level all day; bow slightly high. The boat takes bad choppy water nicely; most of our daily boating is in the shallow Pungo and Pamlico Rivers and Pamlico Sound. They are large shallow bodies of water, with a LOT of 'fetch' and that creates short, steep, choppy seas... A note on sea-sickness. I have been sea sick twice in 60 years (Once crossing from Honolulu to San Diego, and once on a CALM day in the Atlantic). But I have been around countless sea sick people. It's often an inner-ear imbalance where your brain and eyes are experiencing different motions. One hint is to watch the horizon (if there's one to watch!) until you gain sea-legs. And I have seen many people seasick on the 'calm' hot humid days. Sometimes with the boat running and sometimes just drifting.
 
Although I have a 2320 with a 300, my 2017 would porpoise and pound when I first got it. I found the following have helped. Added a permatrim, huge difference on my boat. I also put as much weight forward while I'm traveling as possible. For example, we put 150lbs of ice in a kill bag up by the bait tank (mid boat). I did 175 miles yesterday, and 190 the week before with very little pounding.
 
I run a 28 Parker w twin 225s. Most of my fishing is offshore in the atlantic off the OBX. Every trip is different. There is no, right for all conditions, trim and tab configuration. On an average 40 mile run, I am usually at about 36-3800 RPM and 24-27 MPH. Some conditions dictate 16-18 MPH. It is a rare day where I can run 48-5500 RPM. 2-3 footers with a following sea I can get 5K plus and cruise in at 32-34, rarely though. I also spent some time on a 25 mod-V with single 225. It was under powered, but still able to cruise 22-25 MPH when adjusted well, conditions permitting. Parker boats are not go-fast boats. I would suspect that you could tune your ride to 20-25 MPH with that hull and 2 footers. You can get a reasonably comfortable ride if you are willing to take your time. When you do arrive, you will have the best small boat fishing platform on the water. If you want to run at wide open throttle, or close to it, in the ocean, no Parker is going to make you happy. I doubt another 50K, as you stated, will get you too much closer to your expectations. As an owner of this type of boat, sacrificing speed or comfort for fishability and a dry pilot house is just the way of the world. This is just my opinion and experience From having 15 years with my rig on the Atlantic.
 
Following: I have 2003 2520XL. It's heavy with everything I have on it (life raft, second station, hauler, 2 anchors, Honda generator, Warn winch, lots of ice, fuel, tuna gear). No question it is a banger with the MV, that is why everyone puts the shock absorbing seats in them. Any heading sea the MV does not cut, it goes up, then comes down. I definitely use the tabs to level side to side, but also to minimize banging in a heading sea. You have to slow down. A friend has the same boat locally and has said straight out "I would not own the boat without the suspension seats", so I know that it's not just me. It will go anywhere, is very comfortable and safe on the hook, but traveling is not so great. Side note: My guys including me that do not get seasick, never get seasick, but I have had several people on the boat on different days, that had never got sick before, and they were sick on my boat..... Lastly, I always read the posts on here about permatrim, but have yet to find an example of them on the 2520XL, the posts usually referencing the smaller boats with porpoising issues. This is not a porpoising issue, it is hull design IMO, but if someone proved that the permatrim helped (not assumed it, but proved that it helps), then I would put it on my boat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top