New (to us) Parker 2320

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Brent

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Location
Greenwood, Indiana & Charlotte Harbor, Florida
We just purchased the 1994 2320 in Sarasota, Fl. It is a great shape and we drove it home on the ICW. We were able to lift it using davit lifts after DavitMasters made then gave us a free bow lifting sling.
The boat's name is Veritas and plan to rename her soon

...and now for some basic questions

1. How do you remove the rear drain plug? Ours is painted over with bottom paint.

2. Is there a second drain plug by the front bilge pump?

3. I cant determine what the object is under the boat near the midline

4. Looking for ideas to build a storage rack to store the boat under the lifts. Now we are using wood cribbing.

thanks

Brent
 
salbrent":26yq7im6 said:
...and now for some basic questions

1. How do you remove the rear drain plug? Ours is painted over with bottom paint.

2. Is there a second drain plug by the front bilge pump?

3. I cant determine what the object is under the boat near the midline

4. Looking for ideas to build a storage rack to store the boat under the lifts. Now we are using wood cribbing.

Brent,

The garboard drain plug will be brass/bronze and can be removed with a big wrench and a little tapping with a hammer to break the paint seal.

No second drain plug for the forward bilge. If you have her on land or on a trailer, raise the bow to ship the water aft.

The object under the boat at the midline might be a transducer in a fairing. Do you have a photo?

Not sure what you are asking about a storage rack. Are you storing the boat on a lift?
 
I didnt take any pictures but the object is tear shaped on the bottom side and there is a opening that appears to go through the hull by the front bilge pump but it is filled or may be a plug. There is no wires or cables seen from the inside and I didnt spend much time on it.

The boat cradle is look like the bottom half of an evalator lift.

I need a new antenna. Does the plug comes off to feed it inside the cabin or do you cut it off and install a new one?

thanks
 
Brent
In regards to the antenna you need to cut off the end and install a new one. I suggest the ones that solder on if you have the means to do so. The ones that crimp on always seem to fail for me.
Good luck.
 
salbrent":2mj8z7qj said:
I need a new antenna. Does the plug comes off to feed it inside the cabin or do you cut it off and install a new one?

Parkerman":2mj8z7qj said:
I suggest the ones that solder on if you have the means to do so. The ones that crimp on always seem to fail for me.

My experience is the opposite ... as I've never seen or have tested a soldered VHF connection that is new or old and tops out on any best performing set. Soldering sure 'can be' fine, but is only as good as soldering technique and gun used (too low a heat and uneven too [think Apollo 13 disaster!])... and most people and home tools fail miserably in both of these areas. Parkerman, I tip my hat to you for your fine work! FWIW the newer crimp-on 'Centerpin' connections are vastly superior to old type crimp connections, at least IMHO.

From this post here, from testing > 30 boats over the past few years at my boat club ...

Without a doubt, THE BEST PERFORMING radios were using 8’ Shakespeare Galaxy antennas of either the 5225-XT ($97) or 5225-XP ($109) series (from BOE Marine, please tell Jim we sent you!). There is also a $129 FLT model with advanced filtering capability that is said to eliminate more static and to provide a clearer receiving signal. Now those prices are from BOE Marine again and they are about the lowest prices you will find anywhere! I have a marine wholesale account and from my jobber, the cheapest price I can get on the XT antenna above is $125.

The output power on the best antennas I've tested was > 25-watts as per the test meter and all also had the lowest SWR readings of all antennas and VHF sets tested. The top 5 performers were all using Shakespeare Galaxy model VHF antennas. Now, here is the best part. All of the top set/antennas tested were using the new gold-plated solderless “Centerpin” connections also made by Shakespeare, see below. If happy with your existing set, but not sure all transmissions are heard, by all means try these connectors, they’re < $10 and I’ve seen them improve marginal performance to very good performance (as tested by the in-line test meter). I ended up fixing/repairing sets/antennas or wiring on 6 boats and most just needed the new connector or antenna.

SHA-8706.jpg


FWIW I use the ~$100 Art-3 Power/SWR test meter made specifically for VHF radio frequencies.

109632_15.jpg
 
Dale
That is the exact connector I have had fail for me more than once. I finally turned to a soldered connection and so far so good. Funny how one product can work for one person and not another.
 
Brent

This may or may not apply to your boat. I have a strainer mounted like yours also. It is for the Porta-Potti. Mine has the dockside pump out option. That strainer is used for the raw water intake to flush the potti into the holding tank. Their is also a mascerator pump out for off shore use on mine. If yours doesnt have the option take up the access panel and see where the ball valve is and make sure it is in the closed position.

You can get another plug for your boat at West Marine or any boating center.
WM #
Pair of Replacement Plugs 307819 44-673-I Only $8.79 USD
 
Thanks

Just have a Porti-potty and I got busy installing the chartplotter, radio and antenna plus fishing and boating time with the family that I didnt open the forward floor panel.
Then the fuel tank issues. I ruled out the fuel vent hose and replaced the primer bulb, and need to redo the tank fittings.

I suppose West Marine covers the fuel cap tool, too? O:))
 
I'm not familiar with your area but any boating store should have replacement plugs. Wal-Mart carries them here (Tallahassee, Florida). Carry the original and match it up.
 
i have a 99 , that scoop (mounted backward) is to drain the fish box when
running (creates dead spot behind scoop) good luck great boat
 
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