Painting Trim Tabs
- Thread starter Capt. Jim
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goinsfishin
Well-known member
I don't think you are supposed to paint them except with special paint for metal or outdrives, even then it takes special prep work.
You should not use standard bottom paint as it contains metal and you'll be asking for problems with galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals.
From bennett's website:
How do I paint my trim tabs?
The secret to getting anti-fouling paint to adhere to your trim tabs is proper priming, and the best people to tell you what to do are the experts at the company that makes your anti-fouling paint. We strongly suggest that you contact the paint manufacturer and tell them you are painting "304 stainless steel" trim tabs, then follow their recommendations to the letter! Remember don't paint under the zincs.
Hope other will chime in, I just installed a set and don't plan on painting.....but that may change depending on other's experience.
You should not use standard bottom paint as it contains metal and you'll be asking for problems with galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals.
From bennett's website:
How do I paint my trim tabs?
The secret to getting anti-fouling paint to adhere to your trim tabs is proper priming, and the best people to tell you what to do are the experts at the company that makes your anti-fouling paint. We strongly suggest that you contact the paint manufacturer and tell them you are painting "304 stainless steel" trim tabs, then follow their recommendations to the letter! Remember don't paint under the zincs.
Hope other will chime in, I just installed a set and don't plan on painting.....but that may change depending on other's experience.
When I had my bottom painted, they apinted the trim tabs as well, it all peelrd off in about 6 months, i complained like a M@@@@@@@@@ and was told , that almost any paint put on the tabs will peel off, but because we no longer keep our boat in the water, I just cleaned all the leftover paint off, but I am sure there is probally a sure fire way to paint and have it stay on !
jpg1969
Well-known member
This is the Interlux method. It has worked for us quite well. Little bit of work invloved but worth it IMHO:
PAINTING UNDERWATER METALS
Such as bronze and stainless steel, shafts, struts, props, trim-tabs and thru-hull fittings.
The painting of these areas requires special attention to initial surface preparation in order
to improve adhesion. The longevity of this system will probably not be equal to that of the
remainder of the boat, due to the abuse and RPM’s these parts withstand. However, excellent
results have been obtained utilizing the following system.
PAINTING TRIM TABS, SHAFTS, STRUTS, PROPS AND THRU HULL FITTINGS.
Degrease the metal surface with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 or Special Thinner 216.
Bring metal to a uniform bright finish by sandblasting with non-ferrous blast media such as clean
silica sand or grind using coarse to medium emery cloth. Remove blast or sanding residue.
Apply one thin coat of Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354 thinned 25% with Viny-Lux Solvent 355.
Allow Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354 to dry a minimum of one hour but no more then
24 hours and apply three coats of InterProtect® 2000E/2001E following dry times on label.
(If fairing is necessary, fair between first and second coats of InterProtect®).
Apply 2-3 coats of Interlux® antifouling paint. Hard antifouling paints work best such as
Fiberglass Bottomkote® or Ultra for this application. On aluminum use Trilux® 33® or Tri-Lux® II.
If dry times for InterProtect® cannot be followed use the following alternate system. Apply four
coats of Primocon YPA984 over the Viny-Lux® Primewash 353/354. On rivets and weld seams
apply a minimum of five coats. Finish with at least three coats of antifouling paint. When painting
aluminum use Trilux® 33®, Tri-Lux® II Trilux® Prop & Drive or Trilux® antifouling paints.
PAINTING UNDERWATER METALS
Such as bronze and stainless steel, shafts, struts, props, trim-tabs and thru-hull fittings.
The painting of these areas requires special attention to initial surface preparation in order
to improve adhesion. The longevity of this system will probably not be equal to that of the
remainder of the boat, due to the abuse and RPM’s these parts withstand. However, excellent
results have been obtained utilizing the following system.
PAINTING TRIM TABS, SHAFTS, STRUTS, PROPS AND THRU HULL FITTINGS.
Degrease the metal surface with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 or Special Thinner 216.
Bring metal to a uniform bright finish by sandblasting with non-ferrous blast media such as clean
silica sand or grind using coarse to medium emery cloth. Remove blast or sanding residue.
Apply one thin coat of Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354 thinned 25% with Viny-Lux Solvent 355.
Allow Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354 to dry a minimum of one hour but no more then
24 hours and apply three coats of InterProtect® 2000E/2001E following dry times on label.
(If fairing is necessary, fair between first and second coats of InterProtect®).
Apply 2-3 coats of Interlux® antifouling paint. Hard antifouling paints work best such as
Fiberglass Bottomkote® or Ultra for this application. On aluminum use Trilux® 33® or Tri-Lux® II.
If dry times for InterProtect® cannot be followed use the following alternate system. Apply four
coats of Primocon YPA984 over the Viny-Lux® Primewash 353/354. On rivets and weld seams
apply a minimum of five coats. Finish with at least three coats of antifouling paint. When painting
aluminum use Trilux® 33®, Tri-Lux® II Trilux® Prop & Drive or Trilux® antifouling paints.
andertonm
Well-known member
I have painted my tabs, only to have the paint peel off, but as barnacles stick to the tabs and I scrape them off, they leave a small part of themselves firmly attached to the tabs. Paint seems to stick to this stuff. I advise not wirebrushing after you scrape the barnies. Just paint over the residue. Not pretty, but effective.
96TL
Well-known member
I just spent $75 on this Pettit Underwater Metal Painting kit for my new tabs. I hope it works!!! :shock:
Contains: 6455/044 Metal Primer Pint set and 6627 Tie Coat Primer.
Contains: 6455/044 Metal Primer Pint set and 6627 Tie Coat Primer.
fishbaybridge
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The man who came over today to measure for my curtans was talking
about this....he said he never had much luck with the paint staying when his tabs were sanded like recomended but when he had them sand blasted and then applied the barrier coat and then a top coat on them it held up great....
about this....he said he never had much luck with the paint staying when his tabs were sanded like recomended but when he had them sand blasted and then applied the barrier coat and then a top coat on them it held up great....
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
I have had GREAT success with that Pettitt paint system for metal, see photos here:
http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB2/vie ... php?t=2132
http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB2/vie ... php?t=2132
On my prior boat I removed the trim tabs and had them powder coated. Lightly sanded them and then used copper bottom paint. Worked great with little deterioration on the zincs. On my Parker I went with Interlux interprotect 2000 on the hull as well as the trim tabs prior to bottom paint. Also worked great with no paint peeling. If I remember you need 3-4 coats of interprotect.
Ray
Ray
