profish 700 windlass

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doughboy

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I have a 2017 2520 pilot house purchased new. Have been having issues with the windlass getting hung up at the juncture of rope to chain when retrieving the anchor. This unit is factory installed. I spoke with the dealer who in turn spoke with Parker regarding this issue. They said to put the rode in 5 gallon bucket with some fabric softener over night then rinse the following day and that should help. I will try this but am skeptical. The only place the rode gets hung up on is the connection between chain and rope otherwise works great. This connection is in good shape. Any other owners run into this problem?

Thanks
 
I have the same problem with my windlass at the rope to chain connection. Many times I need to raise and lower the line until it finally catches and passes the splice. My anchor, chain, and line was purchased from Lewmar as a package including the splice being Lewmar made. I don’t know if the fabric softener will help. I’m guessing, but I believe the splice is too thick and would work better if it were a tighter splice( if that’s possible)
Please let us know if the fabric softener works.
 
I had the Profish 1000 on my Jersey and it did the same thing. To the point where it got so chafed up at the rode/anchor splice, I had to flip it around after 3 years.
 
I’ve had the same exact issue. My dealer mentioned it helps to have someone step on the metal lever to help it grip the splice a little better. Haven’t tried that yet, but I’ve chaffed mine pretty good trying to get it to go through. I’d be interested in hearing what others say... good question.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I had major problems with my 2120 with this, UNTIL I switched over to 8 plait rode. Since then I hardly ever have any issues. I would try some liquid tape applies over the splice, which helped a lot before I switched over. I also used to have issues with the 3 strand getting jammed under the stopper, that problem was totally eliminated by switch to 8 plait.
I am almost ready to splash for season 5 on my 2520 and looking around for someone to splice the chain on the other end so I can reverse my rode.
 
Assuming the OP has 1/2 inch 8 plait line and the appropriate line to chain splice, two things that worked for me were to reach into the anchor locker just prior to chain engagement and pull the line down deeper into the locker which helps the line fall and wrap the gypsy with more "grip" as it makes the transition. If that didn't work I would have someone operate the windlass while I "carefully" grabbed the chain with my hand to give it some help.

It was about a 50/50 chance as to whether everything worked as it should or it needed a little help. I think it all depended on whether the splice hit the gypsy just right. Also, the more the 8 plait line is used you develop tiny little frays that seem to help it grip better.

I've never seen the fabric softener idea work but the theory is that the line is softer causing it to wrap/grip the gypsy better.
 
I've never had a problem at the point yall are talking about.

I have a buddy do my splices....Ex Bosum mate in the Navy.....We sit and drink beer while he does it.
 
warthog5":201f4oyw said:
I've never had a problem at the point yall are talking about.

I have a buddy do my splices....Ex Bosum mate in the Navy.....We sit and drink beer while he does it.
Click to expand...

That's because you have that mondo anchor locker with a long fall for the line.
 
warthog5":2vey5uba said:
I've never had a problem at the point yall are talking about.

I have a buddy do my splices....Ex Bosum mate in the Navy.....We sit and drink beer while he does it.
Click to expand...
TELL him to fly up and do mine I will buy him a case lol
 
Once I get the boat uncovered I will try the fabric softener and let everyone know how it works. What good does having a windlass if someone has to "baby sit" the rode while pulling in? I also fish alone and can't control the windlass and be at the bow to pull/stuff more rode into the anchor locker. It sounds like this might not be an uncommon problem. I will also look into the 8 plait line. Not sure what line came from the factory. I'm sure there is a solution just need to find it.

Funny thing is I have owned a 24', 30' and 36' Grady and both larger boats had same issue except that the rode got hung up in different places. The 24' windlass was dealer installed and that worked flawlessly. The other two boats were from factory. The problem with those boats I believe was the anchor locker wasn't deep enough for the rode to hang down into the locker and would get hung up. They had vertical windlasses. The 24' had a horizontal windlass. All were Lewmar. The big Grady was 8 plait rode never solved the problem.

By the way I do like my 2520!
 
If I fish over 65' of water I will have to stop about halfway and sweep the rode down in the well or it will build up under the hawse hole and a problem will ensue lol. Fishing 130' or more requires 2 sweeps lol
 
The fabric softener works.... I've done it before.

What it does is make the rope soft and suple, so it lays down better.

But the biggest problem is in the boat design and the anchor locker not being deep enough fo the amount of rope you have.

The deeper.....The better.
 
Bmoore":1qfpzk47 said:
I’ve had the same exact issue. My dealer mentioned it helps to have someone step on the metal lever to help it grip the splice a little better. Haven’t tried that yet, but I’ve chaffed mine pretty good trying to get it to go through. I’d be interested in hearing what others say... good question.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The last thing that I would do is to allow, let alone ask, someone to stick their foot, or their hand onto the moving parts of a windlass under load.
I think the biggest problem is, assuming that everyone is using the correct size rode for their windlass, that the splice is not properly tapered and the bulk hits the gypsy in too short of a span, or all at once, if the splice is not tapered at all.
If your splice is 9 sets of tucks, the first 3 are full size, burn off 1/3 with a hot knife, 3 more sets, burn off half of the remainder, and 3 more sets. Have your chain secured so that you can pull hard after every tuck, to make the splice as small as possible. When you get through, pour some hot water on it, and roll it around, pull it as hard as you can, and beat on it with a rubber mallet.
 
The splice on 3 strand (if that is what you are doing) is way different than the splice on 8 plait. More difficult. Pounding with a mallet sounds interesting though. I am always a fan of getting a bigger hammer and pounding things into submission. :mrgreen:
 
PKS1801, Could you please explain what you mean by burn off 1/3. Thanks..
 
When splicing 3 strand, you start with 3 full strands. Make 3 sets of tucks with each strand. Take each strand and separate it into 2 parts, 1/3 and 2/3. Try not to untwist the strands into a bunch of loose strings. Burn the 1/3 off with a hot knife/soldering iron. Proceed with the next sets of tucks with the reduced strands. Each time you do this, the splice gets smaller in diameter.

Alternatively, you can separate out the 1/3, and make your next set of tucks with only the 2/3 strand, leaving the 1/3 hanging out of the splice. After a set or 2 of new tucks are pulled tight, you can trim/burn/melt the 1/3 close to the body of the splice for a consistent look.
 
Thanks, PKS. Last question, are you saying that you reduce the strands by 1/3 after using all the strands in the first 3 tucks.
 
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