Quick remove bait cutting table

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.


Well-known member
Supporting Member
Feb 24, 2006
Reaction score
Solomons Island, MD
Got tired of loosing a rod holder to support a bait cutting table. So...I purchased one of those Magma tables with the quick removal pin. When not in use, I pull the pin, reverse the table, re-insert the pin and the table hangs down flat against the gunwhale.

Bloodworm blood/guts and squid goo all run overboard not touching/dripping down the outside of the hull. Washes off quickly with the raw water washdown hose.

I can remove it completely, and the mount is thin enough it doesn't seem to get into the way of the knees.

Next project is to permanently mount that swim/boarding ladder seen in the pic. Any ideas?


  • BaitTable-s.jpg
    42.3 KB · Views: 1,889
Can't tell you where to place it, but ... backing plates, fender washers, and use NOTHING but 316 series stainless steel for the hardware, even if you need to buy the bolts from the guys @ www.go2marine.com .
I'm real tempted to use 5200 to afix two or three white oak blocks to the gelcoat on the outside of the transom above the motor bracket. Blocks would be soaked in thinned epoxy to seal them. Then screw the big plastic clips that hold the ladder to the blocks (drenching the screw holes with epoxy before inserting the SS screws). By using 5200, I avoid punching holes in the outer skin and into the wood core of the transom.
Yeah, but ... the strength when under load should be borne by the bolts and not the "skin" of frp over the wood core ... no? I'd be worried you'd tear the skin off the core ... :shock: !

There's no problem putting a hole in a boat. FWIW when I beefed up my swim platform I put 1/2" holes through the transom, bit above and below :shock: the waterline. They were wetted out with CPES, a clear super penetrating epoxy (thogh nowadays I'd use a different epoxy). Then when that kicked, I put in Raka epoxy thickened with filler, using a wide-mouth syringe to ensure the entire hole was filled, i.e., no air pockets.

This leaves a permanent epoxy plug in the hull, which was then drilled for 5/16" hardware, leaving a barrier around the bolt protecting. All SS hardware (bolts and washers) were also wiped with wax and then all backing plates were secured with 3M 5200.

Less stories from people who have never done so ... 5200 is neither permanent nor un-removable. Heck, we once took off a transom bracket that was put on using that around the entire edge.

FWIW many marine surveyors recommend that deck items subject to load-bearing stresses (cleats or platforms) should be re-bedded on cored boats every 2-3 seasons or so. I never hear them mention "OB brackets though ... " ... yikes, that would be a bear!