Ranger Tim's Second Station Chronicle

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Ranger Tim

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Feb 18, 2006
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Location
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The time has come to begin the process of documenting the install of a Second Station on our 2120. This process will be carried out over a period of months due to financial constraints and economic stress. Second station on a somewhat limited budget is an alternate title. It has taken me two years to get to the point where I can finally move forward with the install. In the beginning I will have 2nd steering but no duplicate engine control.

Materials collected so far;

1) Bulkhead mount console from Parker @ $300 - I decided not to fabricate one myself due to the learning curve and expense of materials. Not cost effective when considering the time involved. Also not interested in mounting directly on the cabin wall - No offense Dale! Not interested in the freestanding station either, just personal preference really.

2) Two Morse Twin SR motor controls (used) from eBay @ approx. $80 each - this took about a year of constant attention to auctions and many failures until I succeeded at this price point. I wanted the SR's for ease of adjustments while underway.

3) Stainless 11 inch destroyer wheel from eBay for less than $30. I want to try a mini-wheel first with a power knob to keep it low profile. Probably get a bigger wheel later : ?

4) Second helm pump from my dealer - it is new because I am wary of a used pump and I can't seem to find one on eBay in great shape for much less than the dealer was willing to settle for - about $300 (still a good price on a new pump!).

The next step is to mount the console and the interior controls. This will involve manufacturing a mounting surface for the inside motor control. I intend to make one out of Starboard and cannibalize the Yamaha control for the key switch and lanyard safety. I want to purchase the engine tilt and start/stop (for the sec. station) switches from an online vendor. I won't be ordering the Teleflex Extreme cables until I can get an accurate length measurement. The Seastar Add-a-Station kit and the hoses will be installed as soon as the second helm pump is installed. Seems like there are several places online to get good prices but there is not that great a difference from local discount houses. We'll see...

I will be posting this as a pictorial how-to as well. I know there are more of you in my shoes. I cannot afford to have someone else do the work and I also cannot afford to get the kit from Parker. Let see how this all shakes out. Next post will show console install, learning as I go.
 
Congrats on moving forward. No doubt you will have fun and learn a bunch as you go.

I feel your pain as the economic crunch has hit us all. I still don't have the engine controls in my tower. Someday it will happen, but for now, I’m content just fishing, fishing and fishing.

Good luck, and I’ll look forward to seeing your progress and pictures.
 
You can buy the hydraulic hoses in a 50' length and get the fittings you put on the ends so you dont have to guess at the lengths plus its cheaper. you should be able to get any toggle switch for your tilt. Yamaha has a start stop panel i think its probably around $250 or so but you should be able to get some other one for cheaper. Especially if you arent doing the yamaha controls i dont think its that big of an issue. I used the yamaha dual station set up and the alarms are a big pain but you should be able to get around it. Dont worry its not that hard to do what youre doing. I just did my tower and it seems like a lot but just do one at a time and youll realize its not all that difficult just very time consuming.
 
Tilt/trim is a simple 2-position momentary switch, blue wire for 'sky' is up, red is 12V power, and green wire is 'grass' for down. Red wire to middle or common terminal.

START is a simple Cole-Hersee-type momentary switch with rubber cover, typically in a black cover, where you bridge the 2 magneto positions coming from the main ignition switch. The main ignition switch MUST be in the 'run' position for this switch to energize the starter.

Similarly, STOP is another Cole-Hersee-type momentary switch with rubber cover, typically in a red cover, where you bridge the xx lead (I forget!) to ground. Note, you will still need to turn off the main ignition switch, otherwise your gauges and any gauge lights will still be energized.
 
DaleH":3twfshbe said:
Tilt/trim is a simple 2-position momentary switch, blue wire for 'sky' is up, red is 12V power, and green wire is 'grass' for down. Red wire to middle or common terminal.

Just got a Yammie one new for $25.00 on-line. For the rear station.
 
It has decided to snow here again. Boat is not under cover so I am at a standstill until old man winter decides to call it a day.

I'm picking up the stainless hardware to mount the console this evening. Indoor work for now. Thanks for the hints Y'all!
 
here are pics of mine 2004 2120DVSC. Ijust had it done. I got the bulkhead mount from Parker like you, and had a mechanic do the rest. total cost $ 2500.
 

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Just a tip for you Tim, I built the same kind of holder for the Morse control inside the cabin. If you want to try to make it disapear just go under the gunnells inside and cut some of the carpet that is way up underneath and use it to carpet the box. It is easy enough to do and does make it look a little more like Parker may have installed it.
By the way, I used Gorilla Glue to put the carpet on and it ain't coming off any time soon!
 

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Good idea, in my application I had the ugly carpet where the old controls were and I put a Beckson Cup Holder there and it covers it perfectly.
You really have done a good job and at a much lower cost than me. I am on my last boat and at 64 years old I am enjoying this Parker Retrofit. I get some real good looks with the bracket on the boat.
I started a "Show off Your 2120 PH" or something like that in the All Parker forum and you should put pictures of your boat up there. Makes ya feel good when you accomplish a project doesn't it?
 
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