Replacing broken seat pedestal

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panga

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My seat pedestal base on my 92 2520dv sc cracked and eventually broke off. The pedestal was manufactured by Springfield so I ordered a 30" spring field replacement pedestal. When it arrived I found the base to be about a 1/4" smaller and the bolt pAttern to be slightly off. The old seat was held on with machine screws. I was thinking they were just threaded into the floor so I would be able to rotate the pedestal to avoid the old holes and drill new holes and screw it down. I tried this today and found that I hit metal when trying to drill through thE floor, the pedestal was centered on the old pattern just rotated a half a hole over to allOw for new holes. What did I hit? Couldn't have been fuel tank that's only under the deck right? I'm assuming it is a backig plate that the old pedestal was screwed to. So since old holes wont line up what should I do? Can I drill through this plate and tap holes then bolt it down, or use self tapp screws. The deck hatch near by doesn't acres this area so kind of shooting in the dark, thanks
 
panga":2gr6syxu said:
The old seat was held on with machine screws. I was thinking they were just threaded into the floor so I would be able to rotate the pedestal to avoid the old holes and drill new holes and screw it down. I tried this today and found that I hit metal when trying to drill through thE floor, the pedestal was centered on the old pattern just rotated a half a hole over to allOw for new holes. Can I drill through this plate and tap holes then bolt it down, or use self tapp screws.
You answered your own question, that metal you hit is the backing plate the machine (threaded) screws or bolts thread into. I'd rotate to new spots, drill through with tap drill and tap. Use plenty of kerosene of WD40 as a tapping fluid for aluminum.

But take a look at the sketch attached, my bet is that Parker did not put a "ring under the floor, but to have the simplest method for 6 attachment points, I'd guess they put 3 slabs of aluminum metal across the holes. I'd try 2 holes 180-degrees apart 1st, then mark the others, and then use a small drill for the other 4 holes to ensure they go through metal.

Put some anti-sieze on the bolts. You should be good to go! Otherwise, you can drill 12" holes and use stainless steel TOGGLERS, they'll hold just like a backing plate, as tey form their own. Good luck! Let us know how you make out.
 

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Yeah thats what I figured, must be 5200d in place or glassed in? cause its holding strong? The first hole I tried was diretly between two remaining equadistant, so it seems like it must be a ring or a circle or a square of aluminum. Thanks ill get it figured.
 
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