Replacing gas tank
- Thread starter BBL
- Start date
Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2008
- Messages
- 6,066
- Reaction score
- 166
You can contact RDS tanks with tank serial number and boat HIN and request a tank build quite, stringer and tank drawing. If you have read Warthog’s posts on R&R tanks, do a search on his user none Warthog5
Before this inflation cycle, a ball park guestimate would be $6000ish, that’s cutting the deck, old tank removal, new tank fabrication, new tank installed and the deck glassed back in.
Area of the country, old fuel removal would all impact the price but I think $6000 would put you in the ball park. These days, with the price of everything blowing up, I wince just thinking about the cost…
Big_Chet
Well-known member
Reel Rebel
Active member
Thought my tank was bad...was a 40 cent stripped bolt on the sending unit. Glad I checked this board before putting a saw into the deck...
Raised my trailer wench to get the bow up and discovered the leak was at the sending unit...WHEW!!!!
Thanks to that previous post on this board!
Going through this right now. I’m going to be 7200-7500 for a 2520 What a pain. Tank had several pin holes and quite a bit of fuel underneath. It was way worse then I expected. Hoping to have the boat back in time for spring. I’m in South Jersey. If your close PM and I can forward some of the estimates I received.
I'm in central VA and in the process of replacing my 100 gallon tank and a section of the floor. I'll likely have $4k in materials alone invested by the time non-skid is applied. Tank was $14 a gallon built to original specs. Marine ply is $140 a sheet for 3/4" as of a few weeks ago. 1708 is ~$13 a yard shipped. Price of resin will depend on what you use. Throw in another $1000 for misc items (paint/gel coat, adhesives, hoses, foam, sandpaper, gloves, brushes/rollers, etc.). Not sure about labor costs but thatll give you a ballpark for materials. It's a time consuming job so I'd get started ASAP if you want to be on the water anytime soon.
It takes a lot of time and many accessory materials. Hoses, clamps, wire, wood, starboard, sealant, fasteners, neoprene, resin, glass fabric, saw blades, etc. then there is the derigging and rerigging. I’m on month three and almost done. Cost was an issue but more than that, I didn’t find anyone that was interested in doing the job, and if they were they would do it poorly. I did find people who wanted to sell me a new boat! Forget that.
I've followed a lot of CP tank replacements over the years. and I've always been amazed at the skill-level of the folks here on CP. (a tank replacement is beyond my skill-level).... It looks like yours had the least amount of cockpit flooring-removal that I've seen; your tank is long, lean and deep!
Thanks, I measured about 15 times, then used a centerline and offset approach. The tank and stringers are not perfectly parallel either which made it tricky. After a few pilot holes I snapped lines and set the radial saw 1/16 above the interior deck skin. More photos soon. OP you can search my threads if you want to see the process. There are many ways.
ANYFISH I’m in Richmond too. Who built your fuel tank?going to start cutting out the floor. What model boat do you have? I’m trying to make sure I cut the right area. Dis you use a drawing for your cutout?
Richmond Steel. Send me a PM and I'll give you info for who to contact. I have a 96 21DV CC and can provide the schematics from Parker, if needed. You can also measure to the stringers from the inspection plates, there should be a large enough gap from the top of the tank to the floor.
