Rusting rub rail screws

[Sow&Pigs]

My 1990 2520 is awesome in most respects. But since last season I've had a problem with rust stains (long drips, really) extending down from the rub rail screws. This is on the inside of course...

Anybody else with an older Parker have this issue?

The boat is still "on the hard" and I'm thinking of pulling the insert and replacing all the screws and the few bolts/nuts. The only thing that's making me pause is I pulled the insert on my old '72 Seacraft a few years ago and the thing was virtually impossible to get back in. I actually ended up replacing it with a rope insert.

Thoughts?

 

[DaleH]

My '92 is built similarly to yours I bet and when I first took possession in '02 the 1st thing I did was seal the top and bottom of the rubrail with black Life Caulk or Seal, the stronger one.

Then I took a diamond bit in a Dremel tool and ground OFF the srews that projected into the cabin. My shoebox joint of hull & liner had alternating screws (liner) and bolts (shoebox joint) every 4-6'', whatever the actual measurement was.

Oh yeah ... I did clean it all then with Bar Keepers Friend! Then I applied beige Ge silcone over the remaining bolts and tops of the ground screw point.

No leaks ... no stains. One year, if I can EVER get a Sprng were I don't work in Europe (grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!) I may remove the whole rubrail and re-do the shoebox joint fasteners and rubrail screws.

Another thing, the reason you are getting staining is that 304 series stainless will 'weep' rust discoloration, as when covered and allowed to stay 'wet', it loses the oxide layer of O2 that is all that protects the SS from the environment. If/when I re-do mine, I will specifically buy expen$ive 316 or 316L stainless hardware. Best place on-line is from www.go2marine.com, even if special ordered.

 

[boat25]

You have to put that rub rail insert back on in a hot day , so it elongates. Spray the groove with silicon lube.

 

[mildew2]

I have a 2520 1990.. I had the leaks like yours. I pulled the insert and
replaced some screws and tightened all the screws and bolts. Some were quite loose. I reinstalled the insert without a problem. I also put sealent on the screws I replaced and sealed the top and bottom of the rub rail with marine silicone but I still get a few small leaks in rough seas. I did
do this last summer when it was warm..

 

[DaleH]

A heatgun or hair dryer will make quick work of the rubrail insert too, if/when cold out.

Another key trick is to put a small piece of blue tape every foot or so onto the insert and scribe a 'witness mark', adding another small piece to the rubrail above or below the insert so you know if you're getting the 'right' stretch on it or not ...

 

[Sow&Pigs]

Thanks, guys. Excellent response as usual for this site.

I've had a similar rust stain problem with a few of the screws and bolts that hold the cabin top to the deck. Not all, only one or two. I pulled them and let the wood dry out as much as it could in the sunshine we had all last week in CT, then filled the holes with Life Caulk silicone and as an added measure I made up a couple of 2" X 2" plywood "backing plates," coated the undersides of the plywod with Life Caulk and tightened everything down. Not a drop came in during the 24 hours of rain we had the other day.

When you think of how many holes are in the older style cabin tops it's amazing that they don't leak a lot more. Just further proof of how well-made these boats are.