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Second Helm Morse Controls

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Ranger Tim

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Here's a couple of questions on Morse twin controls:

1) How much of a distinct advantage is it to seek the Twin SR models with the removeable cover vs. the regular Twin w/o removeable cover?

2) I recently saw a Morse Twin control but it was a side-mount model. Would this mate with a Twin S? It would keep me from having to modify my inside control mount in the 2120.

3) Perhaps this thread could serve as a resource for folks interested in learning more about installing second station motor controls. Trying to prepare for this eventuality is a challenge when trying to visualize the mechanical installation (cables, mountings, etc.).

Here is the platinum-plated resource the Parker site refers to:
http://www.kobelt.com/pushpull_guide.html

The Teleflex site has some info on the CH 5600 control but is of very limited use for the Twin S series. Does anyone have a better web resource?

I like to "think things through" whenever I do a project. Since I am 150 miles inland finding information is not as simple as going to the marine dealer -- there are few nearby -- especially few that are knowledgeable in this area. Besides, most dealers are not that receptive to giving you all the answers when you plan on doing it yourself.

Are there any other folks like me out there?
 

DaleH

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Ranger Tim":1rc0az1z said:
1) How much of a distinct advantage is it to seek the Twin-SR models with the removeable cover vs. the regular Twin-S w/o removeable cover?
No comparison! Once hooked up, any adjustment from the SR-series can be performed by removing the SS cover. On the S-series, you'll need to remove the control from the helm, possibly remove the control cable from the hanger, then make your adjustment ... and then reassemble.

Biggest advantage is the stainless steel cover. That chrome cover on the S-series will pit. Now the arms on the SR series are chrome too, so over the years they will pit too, but you can upgrade them to the Ongaro SS replacement arms (I paid $35 each on-line for them).

2) I recently saw a Morse Twin control but it was a side-mount model. Would this mate with a Twin-S?
Not sure which model you're referring to but if indeed a 2-lever, pull-pull control for Morse 3300/33 series cables ... you're golden! Make sure it can use a neutral-start safety switch, a gear detent, and throttle friction accessories.

3) Trying to prepare for this eventuality is a challenge when trying to visualize the mechanical installation (cables, mountings, etc.).
I got most of my info and parts (neutral safety switch, 2-station kit, etc.) from Go2Marine, which also has links to installation tips and schematics, click here, but that being said, full pictorials of the setups are lacking.

I think if you envision it one cable at a time you'll get the full picture. Take my 2520 with the 2nd station added to the pilothouse rear starboard bulkhead, right below the window.

Now just focus on shifting the gears to the OB. The shift cable connects to the OB shift rod and runs up to the 2nd station and connects to the LEFT lever, onto the REAR side of the hanger. This is so when you PUSH the gearshift forward, the cable PULLS the gear control arm of the OB forward ... to give you forward gear. You then connect a shorter cable (12' worked for my install) from the same control FORWARD hanger to the REAR hanger on the main control. So when you PUSH forward the gearshift on the main helm, it pulls the main shift cable forward, which PULLS the 2nd-station gear hanger forward, which further PULLS the 2nd-station shift cable forward, that PULLS the shift lever on the OB forward.

Throttle is different, as most throttle arms on OBs operate where a PUSH to the rear gives you more throttle. So the throttle cable to the RIGHT arm on the 2nd-station would connect to the FORWARD hanger. Then the cable to the main helm goes from the rear hanger of the 2nd-station to the forward hanger on the main station.

Does anyone have a better web resource?
Believe me ... much simpler in actuality that it is trying to write it out. I still think the Twin-SR control is your best bet, less going electronic. And those mechanical Kobelt controls you linked to are expensive (> $400) and are still chrome over brass, so they too will pit.

Let me know what more details you may need and I'll take pictures of my install for you.
 

Megabyte

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I got most of my info on what parts to consider, and what not to consider by reading the specifics of Warthog5's X-Shark project, and discussing it over on ClassicMako exactly like the thread you started here.

About half of the parts I needed I bought ahead of time. The other half I wrote into my specifications sheet which I gave to my dealer. The dealer then sourced the additional parts when they did the install.

I selected my dealer to do the work for several reasons.

1.) They have a reputation for doing good work on time, and within budget.
2.) They had an indoor facility where the work could be performed during the winter, and I did not.
3.) They have lots of experience in just this install. In previous years, the rear station was a dealer installed option, and they did a lot of them. In fact, the dealer no longer orders boats for the showroom floor without a rear station. It's pretty much a 'must-have' option in my area.

I specified the Morse Twin SR controls (or the SLT if they could get them) and Teleflex X-Treme cables. Selection and installation of the neutral switch, detents, and throttle friction parts were left to the installer to use their experience.

My dealer knows how I keep my boat, and they know that I'll be back for parts and service for years to come, so these guys won't cut corners on me.

I should be picking up the boat this week, so look for some photos soon... :wink:
 

DaleH

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Megabyte":15d0b02l said:
Selection and installation of the neutral switch, detents, and throttle friction parts were left to the installer to use their experience.
Those should only be installed on one control and I'd storngly recommend it be the inside station where you would start the motor.

One other point, I placed a waterproof momentary switch out on the aux helm and it's tied into the starter circuit. So let's say I start up from the dock at the inside helm, now the key switch is put to the ON position. I tool around for a while and want to go back to the dock, but I'm now steering from the aux/2nd station ... if the motor stalls, I want to be able to start it again in an instant. That's what that button is for.

This year I'll also be adding a kill lanyard to the outside station. But note that stopping or shutting off the motor from the 2nd helm does not preclude you from shutting off your ignition switch, as otherwise other items (tabs, gauges, etc.) will still be powered ON.
 

Megabyte

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Dale makes an excellent point.

The pedestal part that I bought (sourced from a 25' C-Hawk) has a weatherproof starter button and a kill switch to attach a safety lanyard on the face of the part.



Notice the Morse look-alike control on the part... That was replaced with the genuine article. :wink:
 

Ranger Tim

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I would think that a kill switch/lanyard would really only be necessary on the outside station -- I've never understood why I would need one in the cabin.

As for a momentary starter switch, I can see limited uses when combined with a kill switch. When picking up a MOB would be the first situation that comes to mind. I can not imagine a time in the foreseeable future when my motor would stall -- It behaves as if it is a quartz timepiece!

So in summation, I will need the following controls;

Helm Pump
Morse engine controls
Kill switch/lanyard
Start switch

I can not envision the need to incorporate motor trim/tilt or trim tab adjustment. It would appear to me that most operation of the boat at the second station would be during trolling or docking, not while on plane when trim is an issue. Am I correct in this assumption?

Thanks to both Dale and Kevin for their kind attention to this subject so far. They are more than gracious in their attempts to educate my feeble mind.
 

rangerdog

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Mine has a red and black push button for starting and stopping the motor (with the cabin start key on). Its great for drift fishing or "run and gun".

John
 

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