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Second helm station install; how to rig hoses?

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mubikS

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Well, it seems ALL of my neigbors and their friends have 25 Parkers, whether they are Pilothouses or CCs.

The latest project involves rigging the second helm station for a 25 pilothouse. I just have a few quick questions about plumbing the second Seastar 1.7 helm.

We know a second pair of hoses must be purchased, but do we have to bite the bullet and buy a third pair just to get the single hose that goes from helm to helm, or can we use cut-to-length UFlex hose? Do UFlex hose and fittings work with Seastar helms, provided that everthing is 3/8"?

I'm removing the helm for this second station from a 25 CC, as it has a pitted shaft and has torn up the seals. What does a rebuild on one of these things normally cost?
 

DaleH

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mubikS":1nk8czt9 said:
We know a second pair of hoses must be purchased, but do we have to bite the bullet and buy a third pair just to get the single hose that goes from helm to helm, or can we use cut-to-length UFlex hose?
What I did was to leave the existing LONG steering hydraulic cabled installed, though I did need to move them from being on the TOP ports to the BOTTOM ports. Then I added a 2nd helm onto the outside of the cabin, see picture below. then I bought 12' hoses to connect the main helm to the 2nd helm, plus also buy the Teleflex 2nd station kit as you need the new "T" fittings and the balancing hoses.

One helm needs to be on a lower plane that the other, so I mounted the 2nd helm that's on the bulkhead @ "normal boat wheel height", as on my main helm, the wheel is up higher on the helm dash.



Do UFlex hose and fittings work with Seastar helms, provided that everthing is 3/8"?
It should provided they use the same type compression fittings.

mubikS":1nk8czt9 said:
I'm removing the helm for this second station from a 25 CC, as it has a pitted shaft and has torn up the seals. What does a rebuild on one of these things normally cost?
Cheaper to buy a new helm on eBay, I paid just over $200 for a new 1.7 cubic-inch helm.

See: http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/
 

Capt. Ronnie

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Dale,
Thats a great and simple solution you have there !!!
You have any inside pics,
and any special reason the throttles are to the left of the wheel instead of the right?
You left handed maybe ???
Either way, thats great and frees up a bit of deck space from not having the box mounted !!!
 

DaleH

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Ron:

I put the throttle/gear towards the "inside" of the boat just so I wouldn't snag them when coming around the cabin from the bow ... I was more worried about that :shock: !

Buy yes, being left-handed and growing up with 3 right-hander brothers, I'm pretty ambidexterous, but this was more of a safety decision than anything else. It actually works out really well.

I'll get up under the tarp and take some photos this weekend of the inside, plus my storage ideas.
 

mubikS

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I'd sure like to convince the owner of the boat that a bulkhead-mounted setup would be easier, but it appears he's got his heart set on the separate console. :?

I had a good long conversation with Warthog 8) and it appears the "fitting kit" takes care of the third hose. But now that I understand the steering system, he went and got me all confused on how the controls for the motors are rigged. :roll:

I promise I'll post some pics though.
 

Megabyte

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Mub...

Here is the one I had installed by my dealer over the winter.
It was sourced from a 25' C-Hawk.



This is what the 'factory' pedestal looks like on a 2520...



I don't have any photos of my completed install yet as the boat will be under wrap until sometime next week.
 

DaleH

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mubikS":1aa3iljt said:
... got me all confused on how the controls for the motors are rigged ...
Single or twins? Singles will need Morse-type controls with 2 handles at each station, one for gear and the other for the throttle. Workable controls are the Morse Twin-S (or the $100 import version thereof) or Morse Twin-SR (preferred IMHO, for the ease of adjustment and the fact the body cover is SS and not chrome, which WILL pit over the years).

Single OB goes to control on bulkhead or wherever ... 2nd set of cables goes from "other" connector on this control up to the main helm. The one where you start it with the key should have the start-in-neutral-only switch, the gear detent, and throttle friction plate installed.

If twin motors ... electronic controls are required ... cha-ching $$ !
 
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