I gotta be quick, as taking a "quick work break" (will be here late), but ...
1 - Remove any mold release on the hull, it still needs an agressive washdown with acetone, workign 1-way with plenty of clean rags and do not ''wash' a cleaned area using a dirty rag.
You MUST do this regardless of the age of the hull!
2 - Apply bottom barrier coat IF desired. There's no practical reason to - seriously (boats can blister from the inside) - but it can replace Step 3. I would do it if YOU are doing the work yourself
or
3 - Apply hard, cheap (West Marine) epoxy bottom paint in a
different color than your final anti-fouling color (or do Step 2)
4 - Topcoat:
Find out what works best in your area. I like ablatives, single-season variety ($80-$125/gallon) as multi-season paints can cost > $220/gallon
5 - Apply 2 coats of each paint step
6 - Blocking, 1st I paint all but under the rollers. Then, provided you have time or can make the time, when that paint has setup, go back and put wax paper on large 4' section or longer piece of 2" by 10" or 12" and jack up hull off rollers ...
be SAFE please :shock: ... add blocking and DO NOT stick your hand between rollers and the hull. Paint the area covered by the rollers. Let dry, repeat other side the next day. Could repeat again. Need to do for EACH coat. Some pull the boat partially off the trailer and block it or use Brownell stands, but this can be dangerous if not done right and is tough on heavy hulls!
Bonus of the different color paints is that if you put on
red, with say a black ablative topcoat, as soon as you start to see
red ... you know the paint is thin in that area. If you put on epoxy-based barrier coat, most is gray in color, so you can put on your topcoat of color choice right on top. Personally I think black looks sharp on Parkers and also feel that the black color ablative performs the best.
Add a vinyl boot stripe (see my hull photos) and your boat will be SHARP looking for sure! Gotta go ... break is over
