Stalling problems with F225... complicated...

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esfishdoc

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Hey Folks... haven't been posting for awhile but I've been lurking and boating and fishing and trying to get to the bottom of a problem that has been around for a year now. I've posted this over on The Hull Truth... here is the cut and paste:

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... -f225.html

In my explorations to try and fix an annoying problem that has been present for a year I've resorted to monitoring the running of the low pressure fuel pump by installing a remote voltmeter to track its on/off cycles. The Yamaha manual suggests the pump runs 10 seconds on and 20 seconds off when rpm's are under 1200 and continuously when over 1200. I find this to be the case with mine when running on the muffs. It also works just fine on the water..... until..... Out on the water there are times after continued operation at cruise speed for say 20 minutes and then dropping back down to idle the pump will stay running. Sometimes it does and others it doesn't. The importance of this is the only time the engine will stall out is after this change is noted. I might drift for 10 minutes after cruising and then the engine dies out a fuel starved death. Or I would be idling along and when calling for power up I might get to 3000 rpm and it sags and starves. The only way to restart at this time is to squeeze the primer bulb a few times (which suggests to me the VST tank was empty). After a few squeezes... ( sometimes 3 to 6 before meeting resistance) There is always fuel in the bulb. (The bulb has been replaced and is vertical. I've used an aux. Tank and it does not fix the problem. All filters are new. VST tank and all filters in it have been checked and replaced. The low pressure fuel pump was replaced early on.. which did not fix the problem... fuel is good.... the engine never falters at running cruise speed... I could run the tank empty and it would not stall )

This problem goes back a year and has been intermittent and unfix-able. It seemed that over the winter when going out in temps under 50 the problem did not occur which makes me think it might be temp related. That.. and the fact it only seems to happen after running in the water under a load (causing higher operating temps?) and not on the muffs. I keep chipping away and trying this and that trying to find the problem.

What is the normal operation of the low pressure fuel pump and what systems if any feed info that can alter the normal operation?

Is it a fuel flow problem causing the pump to run out of specs or is it electrical?



My local Yamaha dealer/mechanic ran the motor on land and checked the computer and says everything checks out OK and they can't get it to malfunction. They also said they've never heard of a problem like this. Fortunately it only cost 130 for that assessment.

Suggestions?

Questions?

I'm looking forward to getting this fixed.

Thanks for your help in advance.

Richard


Saturday I jumped my first ever Eastern Shore tarpon out of Willis Wharf... broke a 9/0 hook in the process... but that's another story...
 
I'd change out the ECM, under warrantly of course. The pump is dumb, the ECM tells it to turn on or not.

Sounds like a diode may not be cooling down to provide the correct output signal. Now, is the ECM on the Yamster water cooled? FWIW the ECMs on the 1st generation Bomb direct injected 2-strokes were ... and the cooling passages were either too small or would clog up or something ... but bottom line, some ECMs got too hot and heat can cause electrical things to go kaflooey.
 
Dale... Not under warranty...

What I don't understand is why the symptoms of VST tank empty when the LP fuel pump seems to run more than it should... not less???? Inquiring minds...

Thanks

Richard
 
Too much fuel could be stalling out due to running rich ...
 
But... when it cuts out it will only start when pumping more fuel into the system... acting like and suggesting to me the VST tank has emptied... which is counter-intuitive when watching the voltmeter suggest to me the pump stays running when it shouldn't...

Now.. if it stays running because it needs fuel... what is telling it to stay running? This I can not determine from the manual...


Richard
 
Brent":267jb4ad said:
Did you check the needle and float inside the VST?

The needle and float valve seemed perfect when I had the VST tank off and inspected and cleaned and all filters changed... along with the low pressure fuel pump.
 
I'm thinking an electrical (ECM) issue too, especially since it doesn't have the problem in the colder months.
Electronics don't like heat...

But... have you looked at your fuel vent?
Having to pump the fuel bulb does suggest fuel starvation.
A partially clogged vent could do this, and I know for a fact that mud daubers like my boat for some unknown reason.

FWIW - you don't need wasp spray. WD40 works wonders on their nests. :)
 
Megabyte":vwkj5q3m said:
I'm thinking an electrical (ECM) issue too, especially since it doesn't have the problem in the colder months.
Electronics don't like heat...

But... have you looked at your fuel vent?
Having to pump the fuel bulb does suggest fuel starvation.
A partially clogged vent could do this, and I know for a fact that mud daubers like my boat for some unknown reason.

FWIW - you don't need wasp spray. WD40 works wonders on their nests. :)

Have tried running on an auxiliary tank bypassing all the problems that might be associated with the inboard tank and had the same problem... not the vent :(

Richard
 
You mentioned a possible temperature problem or over heating which could cause a vapor lock. You can check that with an infared thermometer by taking the operating temperature at the top of the VST tank, then taking it again when this happens. I have had a very similar problem this summer which happened twice them miraculously has not happened since. I have been shooting the temps on a regular basis. It stopped once I put a fuel stabilizer in the tank, it is my first summer with this boat and don't know the complete history of the boat, but I have a hard time beleiving that the fuel additive was the fix, I think its just hiding. Have you checked your thermostats lately to make sure they are not corroded shut, mine were loaded with salt and stuck open when I inspected them. Intermittent problems as we all know are a pain in the a$$.
 
I had the same problem with my engine. My mechanic installed a vapor recovery kit part# 90891-40430-00 and everything is fine.
Do a search for vapor lock and/or engine stalls. You will see my post.

Good luck
Dennis
 
The part is no longer offered per Yamaha and none available per Andy @ SIM I have already checked into it. This weekend will be a great opportunity to check for temp related problems. Hot here in Baltimore!
 
just curious
before you pump the bulb, did you remove the cowling and check the front fuel filter bowl and is it empty?
The VST has drain screw at the bottom and it is easy to access with cowling off. With a rag, you could open it and see if fuel runs out.

other thoughts are to check the wiring for cuts, frays and connections for corrosion, bad connnections
 
Is your VST really empty when you have this problem and you sure it's not the VST filter being clogged up?

Just because you read voltage going into a pump does not mean it's working.

I've seen plenty of electric motors that have 12v and a ground and don't work.

You must confirm that it is actually pumping when it has electric and if it is the next logical thing is a stuck needle and seat in the VST if the VST is empty. If it's full it's the filter.
 
Brent":12c4od91 said:
VST tank and all filters in it have been checked and replaced.

Did you change the F shape filter on top of the VST tank?

This motor has 9 fuel filters : front, vst high pressure pump, F shape and each injector has one
Ten if you add the RACOR

All filters changed...
 
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