Stringer repair

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TimC2520

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Location
Media, PA and Brigantine. NJ
As some of you may remember this past spring, I had responded to a post that was started regarding some stringer issues
I was having that was made public before I really knew what I was dealing with. Well, now that I have dealt with the
problem, and things have worked out well, I will explain the situation so that in the future, maybe my experience may
come in handy for others.

I am the original owner of a 1999 2520 MVSC. I have meticulously maintained the boat to the point that would make Megabyte proud :D . I am the poster child for being "anal" with the boat. About 3 years ago I found a small brown stain on the floor of the bilge (reference photo). For those very familiar with your bilge layout, you will know exactly where
this area is in your bilge. At first the stain was minimal, and I mistakenly shrugged it off as rust from something below deck.

Well, when I pulled the cover back in March '08 and opened up the bilge hatch, it had gotten considerably worse so I figured I had better investigate. The area is not very accessible so my only option (I did not have a mirror handy) was to reach in there with my cell phone, turn it around and start taking blind photos. I then emailed them back to my
computer and took a look at them when I got home. It was clear that the fiberglass on the edge of this stringer had split open, exposing wood. My guess is water got in there, freeze/thaw, freeze/thaw, pop, there you go.
It's 5 years out of warranty so I did not really make it an issue with the manufacturer but I did forward the photos.

I had some glass shops look at it before I splashed her and all suggested that I should not sacrifice the season, fish it and deal with it at the end of the year. The opinion was that it would not get any worse but that I should seal it up as best as I could. Moisture meters indicated that water had wicked forward from the opening approximately 12 inches.
The boat was still on blocks and the bilge was dry so I put on some rubber gloves, filled my hand with 5200 and smeared
the stuff all over the opening.

I used it all season, during which the stringer did not bleed at all anymore. Over the course of the summer I had done some research and decided on a fiberglass shop that came HIGHLY recommended by a member on here as well as nearly one dozen people that I had talked with over the summer. Every one of them did not hesitate to tell me this boat had to go to Youngs Fiberglass in Marmora NJ.

http://youngsfiberglass.com/Home_Page.php

Check out some of the before and after photos of their work on other boats on their website.

Well, she is all well again and I am very happy with the outcome. As it turns out, Youngs has done some warranty work for Parker in the past. I had the boat hauled down there at the end of the year. They took a core sample and found that the stringer was indeed damp, but showed no signs of rot and evidence of dampness roughly 12" deep. He also mentioned that he was impressed with the amount of glass that Parker uses on their stringers. He told me that he was 99% sure that the entry point was indeed the edge of this stringer. The only way to be 100% sure was to start cutting the floor up which he did not feel was necessary.
He thought I'd be wasting my money to go looking for something that may not exist. I thought that was pretty honest of them, heck, he could have spent my money and started cutting the floor. The glass was removed from the damp area, the wood was dried out, then re-glassed and I am good to go. As you can see from the photos, I also
had him build up the fiberglass in this same area on the port stringer just in case. I have not taken pictures of the final repair only because I haven't been down there to pick it up yet.

If you are in this area and you need a honest repair shop that does excellent glass work, it's worth the trip to head down to Youngs. I hope this explains the issue clearly and if anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

Good fishing in '09 !
 

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Tim:

So as I understand it, they used a moisture meter to determine the area of dampness, then ground the fiberglass off the affected area to dry it out (no actual rot found), then reglass. very cool. thanks for the info. glad your baby is whole again.
 
grouperjim":2l2w51jn said:
Tim:

So as I understand it, they used a moisture meter to determine the area of dampness, then ground the fiberglass off the affected area to dry it out (no actual rot found), then reglass. very cool. thanks for the info. glad your baby is whole again.

That is correct. Back in March, I had someone show me (with a meter).
If you started at the edge, the meter read damp. As you slid it forward, the meter gradually slipped down until about 12" in, where it did not pick up any moisture. That was the area where he took the glass off.
 
Funny you should post this because my 21 SC is going in to Youngs next week. I'm from NJ and everyone takes their boats there. I have seen countless examples of their work and always blown away. They won't rush it and won't under estimate. Your paying for a better than new type job. I'm not rich by any means but am always willing to pay for a perfect job. Young's is the place.
 
Dan and Don Young are first class! I have used them in the past to fix nicks and dings (aka war wounds) caused by misplaced gaffings and dropped sinkers. As far as I am concerned the work they do is top notch and treat their customers with great respect. My boat is going to them next week.

Tim thanks for posting and I am glad everything worked out.
 
Good post Tim!

As others may recall, we had one former 'member' who ran around insisting the 'sky was falling on Parker boats' while I advocated let's wait for the facts to come out. am glad we (you) did and am really happy with the results.
 
Great job, it looks like a new boat. Hang on to that fiberglass man. I have a regular and for the big jobs I use him all the time
 
Any indication as to what allowed the water in in the first place??

Screw holes?? Maybe not enough glass on the endgrain in the first place?
 
Definitely not screw holes. He thinks it was just not enough glass on the edge of that stringer where it's cut out to pass rigging and hoses through.
I guess the tiniest hole could allow moisture to seep in and over time with the freeze/thaw cycle, it just kept opening up and finally began to bleed the wood stain.
 
Tim,

Youngs did a great job. I hope I never need them but it's nice to know they are nearby. Glad you can have peace of mind now.

wayne
 
TimC2520":247awqsf said:
Definitely not screw holes. He thinks it was just not enough glass on the edge of that stringer where it's cut out to pass rigging and hoses through.
I guess the tiniest hole could allow moisture to seep in and over time with the freeze/thaw cycle, it just kept opening up and finally began to bleed the wood stain.

Hi everyone, im new here, however i joined this forum last night looking for answers on this exact issue on my 2001 2520 MVSC. I discovered minor staining in the aft bilge which led to my discovery of cracks along the backside on (2) of the stringers and cracking along the top edge of the PORT scupper drain box where it is bonded to the deck along with cracking on the top of "Splash lip" that diverts water to the scuppers and keeps it out of the bilge.. I will try and post some pics asap of my findings. From what i can see this appears to be directly caused from unsealed screw holes from the transom cover to the "Splash Lip" along with screws that were holding down my battery trays.
I dont believe i have a true "ROT" issue however i am definitely dealing with a moderate water intrusion issue that requires immediate attention to prevent further damage and future rot. I hope after i post some pics some of the "Guru's" on this forum can confirm my theory and give there thoughts and repair ideas. Hopefully this will help out another member dealing with any similar unresolved issues.
 
In that first picture, there should not be any wood where the rivets and screw hole is. That should be solid glass.
Honestly, aside from evidence of previous repairs to cracked gel coat, I don't see anything too concerning. Others will chime in shortly though with hopefully additional opinions.
 
I understand that the first "trim" panel where the rivots are is solid glass! I think its actually coosa board?? But behind that is the lip of the cockpit deck that isolates it from the bilge where the screws bite in, Im pretty sure that is cored but i could be wrong?
The areas that appear to be repaired are from me. I smeared some 5200 from an old tube i had laying around on the supper drain box when i first saw the crack there, and i put some epoxy in the other crack just to help prevent anymore water intrusion until i can complete repairs. Unfortunatly i did not get pictures of the cracks before hand.
 
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