Transom Crack
- Thread starter fly_fool
- Start date
Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
To put your fears somewhat at rest, this is would not be the 1st boat, Parker or not, with a cut-out transom that did this. Remember that that edge is a stress point and gelcoat is significantly harder in tensile strength than the substrate.
Meaning, the substrate is stronger in that it is multi-layered and multi-composite, so it has strength and durability. Gelcoat is fragile in that it can’t bend or flex the way the hull layup can … thus causing the crack.
TEST:
First thing you should do is sound the hull and also remove ANY bolt or hardware you can from the stern to see, check, verify just how wet, dry, or sound the rest of the transom is. Then have a friend 'jostle' the motor up and down (while part way trimmed up) while you look at the transom from the side. You shouldn’t see any flexing of the transom. If all appears sound, fix the crack.
I would use some form of pick to make sure it’s dry down there and would setup a hair dryer or other to dry out that area before you attempt to repair it.
FIX:
Though not pretty as gelcoat, Marine-Tex might be your best here. You could also consider adding an aluminum channel (like an upside-down “U”) top cap over this area, more for looks than function. Many cut-out transom boats come with this installed for this very reason. Leaving it open will show you if the crack grows, but the M-Tex epoxy won’t match the gelcoat and it’s an absolute bitch to gelcoat over M-Tex … don’t ask me how I know.
Meaning, the substrate is stronger in that it is multi-layered and multi-composite, so it has strength and durability. Gelcoat is fragile in that it can’t bend or flex the way the hull layup can … thus causing the crack.
TEST:
First thing you should do is sound the hull and also remove ANY bolt or hardware you can from the stern to see, check, verify just how wet, dry, or sound the rest of the transom is. Then have a friend 'jostle' the motor up and down (while part way trimmed up) while you look at the transom from the side. You shouldn’t see any flexing of the transom. If all appears sound, fix the crack.
I would use some form of pick to make sure it’s dry down there and would setup a hair dryer or other to dry out that area before you attempt to repair it.
FIX:
Though not pretty as gelcoat, Marine-Tex might be your best here. You could also consider adding an aluminum channel (like an upside-down “U”) top cap over this area, more for looks than function. Many cut-out transom boats come with this installed for this very reason. Leaving it open will show you if the crack grows, but the M-Tex epoxy won’t match the gelcoat and it’s an absolute bitch to gelcoat over M-Tex … don’t ask me how I know.
gw204
Well-known member
I've got to respectfully disagree with Dale on this one. That looks to me like it's much more that just a crack in the gelcoat, which means your laminate is compromised, there's a very good chance the core is compromised and the overall strenght of your transom is now suspect as well.
If she were my boat, I would be removing the engine and going at it with the grinder to open up the area and get a real look at the extent of the damage. Even if you lucked out and the core has not been compromised, the correct way to repair that is with glass and epoxy (not polyester or vinylester) resin. Epoxy has a much, much stronger secondary bond than the other two. Top the repair off with gelcoat (yes, you can gelcoat over epoxy). It may be tough to get a perfect match on a 10 year old boat, but you can get it very close. Trust me....been there, done that.
I did this repair on a 1985 boat two years ago.
Don't screw around with aluminum molding either. That stuff causes more problems than it solves...
Wet and or rotten core opens up a whole other can of worms and we can cross that bridge if need be.
If she were my boat, I would be removing the engine and going at it with the grinder to open up the area and get a real look at the extent of the damage. Even if you lucked out and the core has not been compromised, the correct way to repair that is with glass and epoxy (not polyester or vinylester) resin. Epoxy has a much, much stronger secondary bond than the other two. Top the repair off with gelcoat (yes, you can gelcoat over epoxy). It may be tough to get a perfect match on a 10 year old boat, but you can get it very close. Trust me....been there, done that.
I did this repair on a 1985 boat two years ago.
Don't screw around with aluminum molding either. That stuff causes more problems than it solves...
Wet and or rotten core opens up a whole other can of worms and we can cross that bridge if need be.
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
No problems here!gw204":3pvexv33 said:
I want Fly Fool to get the best advice he can, so all ... PLEASE chime in!
I had a very similar crack in the same spot.
I noticed it during the survey when I bought the boat and made sure the surveyor went over it well before giving me the thumbs up. I drizzled as much penetrating epoxy as I could get into the crack, applying it two or three times and letting it soak in as much as possible. You can get a small 2 part epoxy kit from West Marine.
After that I just mixed up some MarineTex, did my best to make sure I filled in the void completely and didn't have any air bubbles, and haven't worried about it since.
I'm not saying that it was the right thing, or that your boat doesn't have a more serious problem, just that others have had similar issues and I haven't heard any other follow-on stories of transom rot, etc.
-- Tom
I noticed it during the survey when I bought the boat and made sure the surveyor went over it well before giving me the thumbs up. I drizzled as much penetrating epoxy as I could get into the crack, applying it two or three times and letting it soak in as much as possible. You can get a small 2 part epoxy kit from West Marine.
After that I just mixed up some MarineTex, did my best to make sure I filled in the void completely and didn't have any air bubbles, and haven't worried about it since.
I'm not saying that it was the right thing, or that your boat doesn't have a more serious problem, just that others have had similar issues and I haven't heard any other follow-on stories of transom rot, etc.
-- Tom
captbone
Well-known member
I agree with the others. I would open up the crack with a demel tools and then fill it with West System epoxy. Just my 2 cents
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
FF:
I could send you a few ounces each of the thin penetrating epoxy, then go to www.raka.com and buy their $15 starter kit. As good as West Systems at 1/3rd to 1/2 the price. Plus, you don't need no stinkin' pumps to measure it out ... it's a simple 2-to-1 ratio of resin to hardener. So easy even a caveman could do it ...
I could send you a few ounces each of the thin penetrating epoxy, then go to www.raka.com and buy their $15 starter kit. As good as West Systems at 1/3rd to 1/2 the price. Plus, you don't need no stinkin' pumps to measure it out ... it's a simple 2-to-1 ratio of resin to hardener. So easy even a caveman could do it ...
mildew2
Well-known member
The caveman joke was Politicly Incorrect.
I'm in touch with Al Caveman and Jesse Caveman. We want your job and a public apology on national tv. lol
Actually I have a crack in the same place in my transom on a 2520 and have been wondering what to do about it.
for now I have just filled it with clear silicon so no moisture could get in it
But I know the problem will have to be addressed soon.
I'm in touch with Al Caveman and Jesse Caveman. We want your job and a public apology on national tv. lol
Actually I have a crack in the same place in my transom on a 2520 and have been wondering what to do about it.
for now I have just filled it with clear silicon so no moisture could get in it
But I know the problem will have to be addressed soon.
dcunniff
Well-known member
As well, maybe it was impact damage.
Dana
Dana
fly_fool
Member
Thanks to all. I will investigage further this weekend and report back.
