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Trim Tab Upgrade

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Par

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I started installing the new trim tabs yesterday and finished this morning since it takes a while for marine tex to harden. The project was really easy and actual total time was only a few hours. The upgrade was from 12x12 lenco tabs to 12x18 lenco tabs.

The 12x12's are for sale for $100 for the set. Blades only.

Here are some pictures of the finished product.
 

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DaleH

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Nice upgrade, you'll notice the difference for sure :) !
 

John_Madison CT

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Aren't the outside edges of the tabs effectively out of the water while on plane? I'm just wondering since I am thinking of the same type of upgrade for my 25' Parker, next winter.

I wonder if you could offset the mount a couple of inches so that the "inside" or part of the tab toward the centerline, would be longer than the other side.
 

DaleH

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Missed that ... as they should be mounted inside of the reverse chine.
 

Par

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I see what you guys are saying. The pictures are also a little deceiving. I will take another from a different angle so you guys can give me your opinions.
 

Megabyte

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Take her for a ride and see how she feels. You're not optimum, but you may well be fine.

Have someone else drive and take a peek over the transom to see how they look. I wouldn't stress over it until you give em a good test.

By the way... Nice looking install. :wink:
 

Par

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I will be running the boat Saturday. I will update when I get back.

Brian
 

Chop~Chop

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I've convinced myself the first little suprise on my 2510 was real after reading several posts Parker has under-tabed their 25xx.

Today I took a quick look at what it would take for me to do the same Lenco upgrade. I'm not sure if I should go from 12x12 up to 12x24...Looks like I got loads of room.

I'm thinking one way for easier install; IF the mounting hole pattern is the same, I just might be lucky enough to only need to fill maybe two holes and only drill for the extras of the larger tab. Obvious draw back is actuator mount to tab would have to be drilled offset by 3" from center of 18" tab. 6" for a 24" tab. Make sense?

Not sure though if there would be too much tab-bend, but I'd rather a little bending than...moving actuator?

Par, If you could post just one more picture showing more clearly old tab vs. new hole pattern we'd know if I got a chance to get it done for this season. Else that will go on next year's list.
Chop~Chop
 

Par

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Chop~Chop":10sdoy4t said:
I've convinced myself the first little suprise on my 2510 was real after reading several posts Parker has under-tabed their 25xx.

Today I took a quick look at what it would take for me to do the same Lenco upgrade. I'm not sure if I should go from 12x12 up to 12x24...Looks like I got loads of room.

I'm thinking one way for easier install; IF the mounting hole pattern is the same, I just might be lucky enough to only need to fill maybe two holes and only drill for the extras of the larger tab. Obvious draw back is actuator mount to tab would have to be drilled offset by 3" from center of 18" tab. 6" for a 24" tab. Make sense?

Not sure though if there would be too much tab-bend, but I'd rather a little bending than...moving actuator?

Par, If you could post just one more picture showing more clearly old tab vs. new hole pattern we'd know if I got a chance to get it done for this season. Else that will go on next year's list.
Chop~Chop
Chop Chop - Only the top center screw hole lined up. I had to fill the rest with marine tex. I think it was 7 on each side. I will see if I can take another picture of the old tab next to the new one so you can see the difference.
 

Chop~Chop

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If you get the pics that would be great.

...A good solution for upgrade may be to get Lenco to ship tabs with no holes. I'm calling them tomorrow and I'll also get their idea on flex-factor due to offset of accuator.

I would really like to get this done before I'm in. I think she will perform much better. I first supected more tab was needed dwhen I set one tab full-down, I thought she should roll at least a little. It is hardly noticeable running around 15-20 knots. I'm thinking if I could bury the bow she'll really handle much nicer in 2ft chop.
 

John_Madison CT

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I'm very curious myself if you can offset the actuator a couple of inches. If so, that would make the addition of 18"x12" Lenco's much much easier.
 

Chop~Chop

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Spoke with Lenco today, tech indicated no problem with 3" of offset. These tabs with 90' bends are especially stiff. Tabs without holes were out of the question; these things are manufactured on an automated assembly line.

So, New tabs to run better in the chop is out of the question for this year.

I'll still consider, drilling holes in new set of 12x18 instead of moving the actuator... :wink:

...And I'll wonder if the 12x18 will do as good a job as the 9x24 have evidently done for several folks.
 

John_Madison CT

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I just may try that next year, install the 18" x 12" and offset the actuator. I bet we'll notice a big difference.

No big deal redrilling those holes either.
 

DaleH

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John_Madison CT":2dmh348z said:
I just may try that next year, install the 18" x 12" tabs and offset the actuator.
I think that's a great idea!
 

rangerdog

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OK, guys after some study, I am now convinced that replacing my B12x12E tabs with B12x18E tabs is the way to go and that not moving the actuator and drilling new attach holes 3 inches offset on the blades is an acceptable installation method. But of course I have some questions. :roll:

Par, where did you get your replacement blades? What came with them, just screws? Was there installation instructions? Short of calling Lenco, I can't seem to find them anywhere. The website talks all about upgrade blades, but does not talk about installation requirements (like having to move the actuators).

After drilling the new mounting holes on the blade, what would you guys do to fill in the old holes, if anything? Properly done would require welding (which I don't know how to do) with a heli-arc (which I don't have).

Last question, for now. My bottom is painted because the previous owner kept her slipped. I don't keep her slipped. My current tabs are painted. I wasn't intending to paint the new ones. Pros, cons, thoughts?

John
 

DaleH

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rangerdog":nzmhep0w said:
After drilling the new mounting holes on the blade, what would you guys do to fill in the old holes, if anything?
It ain't the preiiest, but you can put duct tape over the bottom and put a "glob" of marinetex on the top, though you must roughen up the small nickle-sized are for the glob to stick too. I would think a SS rivet woule be slick!


rangerdog":nzmhep0w said:
My current tabs are painted. I wasn't intending to paint the new ones. Pros, cons, thoughts?
I don't paint mine. The bottoms keep very clean due to their use. The tops get hairy, so I have to scrub them at least once every 2 weeks to minimize any build-up.

I tried waxing them with various results, worked great until 1/2-way through the season, so either it wore away or the heat of the latter part of the season promulgated lots of growth.

This year I was going to try spraying the tabs with Pam cooking spray, just to see what happens. I now use it as my release agent of choice when working with epoxies ... as nothing sticks to it. You could spray a bolt with it, stick it into a tub of epoxy, and when cured, just unthread the bolt as simple as anything.

Painting tabs:
Done properly, it's an expensive and 3-part process, as you need to etch the tab, prime the tab to accept paint, add a tie-coat primer (rubber based), and then top off with your anti-fouling paint of choice.

DO NOT try this with that Primacon anti-F crap stuff sold "allegedly" for use on SS, it doesn't work! Pettit's system is reputed to be the best, but this is best done if you know of 4 or more other guys that want to do it, as the etching/primers are only sold in quarts, mid $20 to $30 each, so you're looking @ roughly $80 plus your bottom paint. FYI - that rubber-based "tie coat primer" insulates the SS tab material from any cuprois oxide used in your AF paint.
 

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