Ugh Oh.....I better check mine next time down...

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TimC2520

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Don't mean to stir the pot, but found this very interesting..a post on another site. My spreader lights were installed the same way from the dealer and now I'm concerned...(quite possibly the same dealer) but no one is is naming names. Looks like I may have some work to do next weekend. What do you guys think? :shock: :( :?:


http://www.thebassbarn.com/forum/showth ... p?t=107407
 
Here's a pic of the cutout from 2120 top that made room for the roof mount air conditioner.

In my mind, it's hard to believe that a leak would cause a problem unless the whole boat was underwater for a spell. Is that fish I smell?

IMG_2112.jpg
 
I will look into this more carefully also. Being the new owner of a used 2003 Parker, I have been re-bedding anything that I could as the season goes bye. I am not impressed by the factory caulk jobs at all. Most are done using silicone. :( But, I am a perfectionist. I consider it cheap insurance against possibly water intrusion. Also hate the look of silicone on a boat.
 
The author says he is not sure if the dealer or the manufacturer mounted them this way. I was at the dealer the day my boat got delivered and my spreader lights are mounted the same way, I'm sure it came from the manufacturer that way. What do you think I should use to seal off those holes where the wire slides through the roof? 4200?? Whatever WAS used originally, is in pretty bad shape after 9 seasons now.
 
Wow ... I didn't think Parker used balso anywhere on their boats. I tell you, ANYTIME I put a piece or wire, hardware, or bolt through a cored part of the hull, I drill the hole oversize and then mold in an epoxy plug. Once cured, that plug is then drilled to the diameter I need.

FWIW I have settled on LifeCaulk as my bedding compound of choice for uses above the waterline.

It is extremely easy to do and lasts for the life of the boat, but it takes T I M E and that, unfortunately, is why a factory or dealer cannot 'afford' to do it.
 
Crikey!

Where else does Parker used that damned balsacrap? I've got a new 2100CC coming in this week. I hope to hell it isn't being used under the foredeck or gunnels!

Balsa...after all the years of horrendous problems with the stuff, why the heck does Parker use it?

Sheesh!
 
Ok here we go again. The person who made that post is very outspoken, but I do understand that he does nice work. I don't like the fact that he is blasting a dealer for the install, when in fact it may have been done by the factory. That particular boat did need a great deal of work. It slid off the trailer last summer on the Garden State Parkway doing about 55 MPH. As an aside, we all should check to make sure any holes are well sealed. I have re-calked several times in the last few years.
 
Parker":1ezalwk3 said:
Ok here we go again. The person who made that post is very outspoken, but I do understand that he does nice work. I don't like the fact that he is blasting a dealer for the install, when in fact it may have been done by the factory. That particular boat did need a great deal of work. It slid off the trailer last summer on the Garden State Parkway doing about 55 MPH. As an aside, we all should check to make sure any holes are well sealed. I have re-calked several times in the last few years.

Yep, I believe there's way more to this story than we see on the surface. Not only does the repair guy blast the dealer, he blasts Parker. Typical "axe to grind" senerios include (but are not limited to :D )

a-Parker/dealer refuses to pay his shop rates for warranties
b-Parker/dealer will not give his shop business
c-Shop owner might have had a bad experience w/a Parker he owned
d-Dealer/Linwood might have been a competitor (who moved on) @ 1 time

Read the link. As mentioned, the boat fell off trailer while in transit. Parker chose to warranty the top anyway. Original poster makes various claims of poor lay-up. None of us have had similar problems. I have drilled several plugs and never seen anything but perfect bonds. I have made small mods and wiring changes on 3 new Parkers over almost 10 years and have yet to find any silicone used anywhere.

As for the whining about wood, there is wood/balsa/marine ply and trees of some type ( :lol: ) in every Parker deck/cap/stringers/transom and tops. Go on a factory tour, see the wood. Go to Parker site, learn about the wood. Point is, Parker seems to be proud of their "wood". I know, I am. If one doesn't want wood, buy elsewhere. SeaFox is wood free. :wink:
 
FishFactory":1x5lyyuu said:
Parker":1x5lyyuu said:
Ok here we go again. The person who made that post is very outspoken, but I do understand that he does nice work. I don't like the fact that he is blasting a dealer for the install, when in fact it may have been done by the factory. That particular boat did need a great deal of work. It slid off the trailer last summer on the Garden State Parkway doing about 55 MPH. As an aside, we all should check to make sure any holes are well sealed. I have re-calked several times in the last few years.

Yep, I believe there's way more to this story than we see on the surface. Not only does the repair guy blast the dealer, he blasts Parker. Typical "axe to grind" senerios include (but are not limited to :D )

a-Parker/dealer refuses to pay his shop rates for warranties
b-Parker/dealer will not give his shop business
c-Shop owner might have had a bad experience w/a Parker he owned
d-Dealer/Linwood might have been a competitor (who moved on) @ 1 time

Read the link. As mentioned, the boat fell off trailer while in transit. Parker chose to warranty the top anyway. Original poster makes various claims of poor lay-up. None of us have had similar problems. I have drilled several plugs and never seen anything but perfect bonds. I have made small mods and wiring changes on 3 new Parkers over almost 10 years and have yet to find any silicone used anywhere.

As for the whining about wood, there is wood/balsa/marine ply and trees of some type ( :lol: ) in every Parker deck/cap/stringers/transom and tops. Go on a factory tour, see the wood. Go to Parker site, learn about the wood. Point is, Parker seems to be proud of their "wood". I know, I am. If one doesn't want wood, buy elsewhere. SeaFox is wood free. :wink:


I'm not whining about wood. I know Parker uses treated ply, and a lot of it. I'm objecting to the use of balsa.
 
Since I'm sure my spreader lights are mounted the same way, I guess I'll be LifeCaulking them things this weekend.

Dale, your opinion please. In the 4th picture down, the one with the finger in it....between the mount for the light and the area which is obviously under repair, there is some discoloration of the non-skid surface. Is this what he means my "color of the wood core" ? This isn't the first sign of rot is it? My roof has a few small areas (very small) of this discoloration in the areas of the lights, rocket launcher, etc. and it never occurred to me that it was anything significant....

Thanks.
 
I have not found any Balsa on my 05 2120. She's a rock solid boat. :D
 
TimC2520":2btn1hpu said:
In the 4th picture down, the one with the finger in it....between the mount for the light and the area which is obviously under repair, there is some discoloration of the non-skid surface.

Is this what he means my "color of the wood core" ? This isn't the first sign of rot is it? My roof has a few small areas (very small) of this discoloration in the areas of the lights, rocket launcher, etc. and it never occurred to me that it was anything significant...
See photo below. I'd say that what you are seeing is remnants from goop or sealer that discolored the gelcoat. Someone, IMHO, did a sloppy job of removing sealants ...

I have taken apart 'other' boats with balsa or plywood rotted to the core and there is NEVER a visible discoloration on the outside where rot has weeped through a multiple resin-impregnated layup and polyester gelcoat. At least from my experience ...

Edit: Sorry ... maybe my "sloppy" comment was worded too strong, as they probably cleaned up the area and hopefully used the right solvent, i.e., like mimeral spirits or other, for the goop they were using. However, it could have looked clean/new when it left the factory, but when exposed to sun and salt exposure, the stain can re-appear.
 

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DaleH":53flg9qq said:
TimC2520":53flg9qq said:
with
I have taken apart 'other' boats with balsa or plywood rotted to the core and there is NEVER a visible discoloration on the outside where rot has weeped through a multiple resin-impregnated layup and polyester gelcoat. At least from my experience ...


Now that's interesting. The "fiberglass repairman" OP is becoming less creditable by the post.
 
Yes Dale, that's the mark I was referring to.
I seem to have a few, but only in the vicinity of holes that
were drilled into the roof for rocket launcher, spreader light, antenna, etc.
Not many, 3-4 small areas, about that size.
 
Wow. Thats not good. I feel like re-bedding all my OEM hardware now with some Boatlife caulk. Thats not going to be too easy. Spreader lights, horn, roof rails, rod holders, etc. :(
 
I believe the Parker hard-tops have balsa sandwiched between the fiberglass. My 2510 does. Soak any holes with epoxy before installing the hardware, and calk with 4200 or 4000 should suffice. Use 5200 if you never think you'll ever need to remove or re-bed, 4200 if you might, someday need to remove it, and 4000 if it needs to be maintained yearly (like the grease in the Horizon windlass). Because of the way the windlass is mounted on the deck between the cleats, the windlass needs to be removed from the deck in order to remove the side of the gearcase to check/replace the grease.

BTW, balsa is light weight compared to 3/4" plywood. Using plywood in the hard-top would make it very heavy, make the boat top-heavy, and add to roll. The lighter the hard-top is, the better. Balsa is the right wood to use up there. Now below the water line...that is a different story.
 
Parker":f7gpppuo said:
Ok here we go again. The person who made that post is very outspoken, but I do understand that he does nice work. I don't like the fact that he is blasting a dealer for the install, when in fact it may have been done by the factory. That particular boat did need a great deal of work. It slid off the trailer last summer on the Garden State Parkway doing about 55 MPH. As an aside, we all should check to make sure any holes are well sealed. I have re-calked several times in the last few years.

true,this boat did slide down the parkway-it slid on it's bottom...there were numerous pics of the boat posted....
as far as what i found,the hard top is rotted,the balsa core is saturated with water and the top is delaminated...i know what i found...i have no axe to grind with anyone,i don't appriciate the implication....i don't believe i know you,you've seen my work ??? where ??? do you know someone who was a customer ???
i posted the pictures to show a defect i found,you clearly didn't get the point of posting those pics...it shows a potential spot for trouble !! and guess what ??? trouble showed now didn't it ??? if i saved any of you guys from the same fate,then i did something pretty good,wouldn't you agree ???
"outspoken"...that's what i was referred to as...interesting....i point out a defect and i'm outspoken...

holes drilled thru cored material need to be properly sealed-end of story !! these holes nor any of the holes on this boat were properly sealed,that my friend is a cold hard fact....
there were a few spots in this boat that had "voids" in the lay up...would you like to see pics of those as well ???? these spots have been repaired...
i didn't "blast" the dealer or anyone for that matter,if you've got a problem with me,i suggest you take a ride over to my shop and tell me what's on your mind,versus,taking shots at me on an internet message board hiding behind a screen name....notice the name i've posted under,i gives who and what i am....i ask you to get your facts straight next time you attempt to blast me...got it ???
 
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