Wanted Older 21'-25' Sport Cabin

[johnennis]

Looking for older Sport Cabin, preferably a 21 or 23 footer with trailer. All power options ok. Looking in the price range of up to $20,000. Will travel anywhere on east coast (I'm in PA).

Thanks everyone. Great website, the info here sold me on a Parker.

John

 

[Brent]

1997 23 ft Parker sport cabin for sale - $23000 (warwick RI)
Reply to: [email protected] [?]
Date: 2008-09-01, 1:27PM EDT


I have a 1997 23 foot Parker sport cabin for sale, it has a 1997 200 hp Yamaha outboard engine. This boat is in excellent condition.

Some of the features include:
*Lawrance Global Map 2000 (combination GPS, chartplotter, and sonar)
*vhf radio
*vinyl V berth cabin
*salt water washdown
*boarding platform
*rocket launcher
*trim tabs
*includes accessory equipment, including ort-a-potty, anchors (2), and all safety equipment

http://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/mash.cgi?i ... cat=cpboat

 

[Megabyte]

Did you see this one?
http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB2/vie ... php?t=5046

Call and make an offer.

 

[johnennis]

Thanks everyone.

Salbrent, will PM you about your Parker.

 

[Scott-MD]

Sub-$20k there's a 2320 down in the Keys with twin two strokes. Also I looked at an inboard/outboard 2520 in Cambridge, MD. I think you can find the former on boats.com and the latter on boattrader.com

Good luck!

 

[DaleH]

How 'bout this one? New power ...

http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB2/vie ... php?t=5091

 

[johnennis]

Thanks Dale. They are a little out of my price range of $20K.

Is there any reason to stay away from older hull years? I'm looking at a 1988 25' that looks real clean. It has the knotch transom which I'm not thrilled with but I can live with it if the price is right.

Do later years have many improvements?

 

[DaleH]

Is there any reason to stay away from older hull years?
Do later years have many improvements?

In ANY brand older boat, there could some rot or soft spots, specially in the deck, as in those years, the bottoms didn't even have resin on them. Or in places where hardware was attached and either the wood core wasn't protected or over the years, the bedding compound is not 'worn' and doesn't protect the core.

On my '92, which I am led to believe when it first started, the backsides of the decking did have a coat of resin, but no glass. Sometime in the later 90s, I believe the plywood was completely encapsulated within glass and resin.

When I first got my '92 hull, I removed EVERY piece of hardware I could. Then #1 I wet-out the holes with epoxy, and then #2 redrilled (once cured) for a larger hole and redrilled for the proper sized fastener. Even if you just used thinned epoxy and did step #1 that is at least better than nothing. Items like cleats and chocks are subject to severe stress and loading that can weaken the bedding over time.

 

[Megabyte]

That 88 hull you are looking at, Dales 92 hull, and my 96 hull are all virtually identical 25', 9'6" beam 14* deadrise boats. Dale and I both have full transoms with the motor on a bracket, but the hulls are the same.

The earlier sport cabins did not have the v-berth Beckson portholes, many of them had teak instead of stainless rails, and the 88 model probably has the "shoebox" joint between the sportcabin and the hull. Materials and manufacturing techniques got better as time went on, but the boats are essentially the same.

As Dale said, the real measure is how the boat was treated. A boat of that vintage will undoubtedly need a little TLC to make her perfect again, but that is the whole reason for ClassicParker. Protecting, preserving, and enjoying these boats is what we all do. :wink:

Good luck in your quest. 8)

 

[CaptainJim]

Is there any reason to stay away from older hull years?
Do later years have many improvements?

In ANY brand older boat, there could some rot or soft spots, specially in the deck, as in those years, the bottoms didn't even have resin on them. Or in places where hardware was attached and either the wood core wasn't protected or over the years, the bedding compound is not 'worn' and doesn't protect the core.

On my '92, which I am led to believe when it first started, the backsides of the decking did have a coat of resin, but no glass. Sometime in the later 90s, I believe the plywood was completely encapsulated within glass and resin.

When I first got my '92 hull, I removed EVERY piece of hardware I could. Then #1 I wet-out the holes with epoxy, and then #2 redrilled (once cured) for a larger hole and redrilled for the proper sized fastener. Even if you just used thinned epoxy and did step #1 that is at least better than nothing. Items like cleats and chocks are subject to severe stress and loading that can weaken the bedding over time.

I have an 88 notch transom sport cabin MV. As all of the above posters stated, they are correct.

My decking has a couple small soft spots. near the fuel tank access ports (I have twin 47 gal tanks). Mostly this is from construction techniques that needed a little time and experience to improve. Perhaps one day I will have the deck and stringers re-done, or I will have moved up to a bigger boat (the 28 foot BHM and 31 young brothers make my heart go little pitter patters). My boat is 20 years old, it's in great shape, I could deal with a little soft spots in the decking, as they are so small and only I know they are there.

My boat has teak hand rails & PH door, teak trim in the cabin, and does not have beckson portholes in the cabin. The teak we treat every couple of years with Cetol, which is pretty bulletproof stuff, as we fish it pretty hard.

My notch transom rarely (if never) takes water over the stern unless I am backing down hard into a following sea.

1) Do i wish i had a full transom? Sure. But the price was right and the survey was good

2) Do I wish I had a deep V? Sometimes, but my mod v gets me where I'm going. The boat pounds hard in a head sea, but I just slow down and trim the motor in.


Things my boat needs:

1) a 15p prop, as I'm overwheeled at the moment
2) trim tabs
3) someone who isnt a complete packrat like my aging father who continues to squirrel away more and more gear in my storage compartments

 

[DaleH]

Things my boat needs:

1) a 15p prop, as I'm overwheeled at the moment
2) trim tabs
3) someone who isn't a complete packrat like my aging father who continues to squirrel away more and more gear in my storage compartments

I think we could help you with the first 2 items !

 

[Megabyte]

Things my boat needs:

1) a 15p prop, as I'm overwheeled at the moment
2) trim tabs
3) someone who isn't a complete packrat like my aging father who continues to squirrel away more and more gear in my storage compartments

I think we could help you with the first 2 items !

Lordy Capt Jim!
If you were to put a set of 24x9 Bennett trim tabs on her, you would swear that you have a whole new boat!

The difference for me was like night and day.

 

[CaptainJim]

Lordy Capt Jim!
If you were to put a set of 24x9 Bennett trim tabs on her, you would swear that you have a whole new boat!

The difference for me was like night and day.

hmmm... the installation looks a lot less painful than I expected. perhaps I should do a set.

The MSRP looks like $700 or so...what did you pay for yours?

 

[Megabyte]

hmmm... the installation looks a lot less painful than I expected. perhaps I should do a set.

The MSRP looks like $700 or so...what did you pay for yours?

Installation is indeed a pretty straightforward process. In fact, the whole process has been photographed and posted by several members in the projects section here.

I bought my tabs 5 years ago from Jim Maier at BOE Marine. Unfortunately, I don't recall what I paid back then.
Give Jim a call at 866-735-5926 and tell him you want the 'ClassicParker' quote. I'm sure his price will be competitive.