Washdown Pump Help

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bobkat

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I just finished drilling the hole for and installing a clam strainer intake for a washdown pump setup. I then added the seacock. Both are 3/4 in. Now I want to add a pipe to hose fitting that will go from a 3/4in pipe to 1/2 in hose end and preferably a 90 degree angle fitting. But I would settle for a staight fitting if that is what I can get. Can anyone tell me where to find such a fitting? By the way, I haven't bought the pump yet. I am leaning towards a Johnson Aquajet 5.2 GPM. I am assuming that most pumps have a 1/2 in intake. If I am wrong then the fitting I am looking for can be 3/4 to 3/4 right? Thanks in advance!!
Bobkat
 
If you open and look at the installation instruction .pdf on the website Kevin supplied it looks like the hose connections are 3/4.
I've found 3/4 to be the most common in that size pump.
 
Thanks for the info guys! From the website, they say the connection is a 3/8" BSP which is a British measuring system / or 1/2" I assume it's NPT but will check with Johnson. I read alot of posts that were negative for the OEM Blaster series by Shurflo. That is why I am leaning towards this pump. Have you seen any negative posting about the Johnson? Also, among the postings there were pictures of the pump being mounted on the transom inside the port battery box area. Do you know if they are using thru hull or self tapping type screws? I appreciate all the help . Thanks
Bob
ps next project is the wiring on a ProFish 700!!
 
My pump is a Blaster, and as far as I know, it's the original pump installed by the factory in 1996.
Mine is mounted inside the enclosed transom.

Image-5C4D0A944F5411DB.jpg


The through-hull and shutoff valve for the raw water supply can be seen here.

Image-5C4B9C7C4F5411DB.jpg
 
I have run a johnson 5.0 gpm aqua jet washdown pump system for the last year and a half. It's a great system. It holds a constant 70 psi.
pressure, it doesn't pulsate like alot of washdown pumps tend to do.
My pump came with 1/2 inch quick disconnect,locking fittings.
I mounted the pump on the inside wall of the port side rear box on my 1990 (2520sc). Here is an hyperlink to the system I bought. I got it on sale for about 145$..http://www.eangler.com/product/356981167.htm
I have my pickup off the outside of the transom as I don't trust holes in the bottom of my boat..Will include a picture when I get a chance.
The pump shuts down when it reaches 70psi after using so you don't have to turn a switch off and on. Very user friendly.
 
Capt Kevin
The pictures are great and that bilge is immaculate!!! What is the size of that 90 degree pipe to hose fitting coming off the seacock? That is exactly what I was looking for. My thru hull fitting and seacock are 3/4 in. and I was trying to find a reducer that would bring me down to 1/2 in. which is what the intake on the Johnson pump is. As far as the mounting of the pump is concerned, I have a notched transom. I was thinking that if I put it on that back wall, I would first use a piece of starboard and use 5200 to glue it there and then mount the pump to that.I did that on my last boat. Something about drilling holes on that transom wall makes me a bit uneasy. By the way, if this pump doesn't work, the next will be a Groco. Also, thanks to everyone for their input.
Bob
 
bobkat":2ogsakxs said:
What is the size of that 90 degree pipe to hose fitting coming off the seacock? That is exactly what I was looking for. My thru hull fitting and seacock are 3/4 in. and I was trying to find a reducer that would bring me down to 1/2 in. which is what the intake on the Johnson pump is.

Bob... I'm not certain of the size, but I believe it is 3/4". If the intake on your Johnson pump is 1/2", I'd put a plumbing reducer there on the pump rather than limiting the size of the supply hose from the intake valve.

The whole raw water washdown system in my photos was a factory installed option in 1996, though I will say that I rarely use it. Most of the time I wash down with a bucket. :)

One other thing to consider... When you mount the washdown pump, orient the assembly with the pump on the bottom and the motor on the top. That way if there is any leakage from the pump, you won't have saltwater leaking into your motor, shortening its life.

Good luck on your project, and remember to take photos and post the results of your efforts! :wink:
 
Thanks guys for all the info. I have taken some pics and will take more when it is complete. I am also into adding a Lewmar 700 Winlass to my 2520. I have wiring questions that I will put out on a separate post. Thanks again to all!!
Bob
 
Here are the pics so far
Bob
 

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Thats not a seacock. Thats a ball valve. If that intake "stem" was to split or crack, you'd have no way to stop the water flow.

I'm not trying to knock your install. It looks like clean work. I just wanted to let you know that setup is not safe.

More info here:
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/07.htm

This image is straight from the Groco website.
 

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Thanks 96TL. I'll have to change all of it next time she's hauled. That may be not until the end of the season though. In the pic from Megabyte that he says was a factory install, they must have shortened the intake pipe so that the seacock fits snugly against the hull. I don't see any wood base in the picture nor do I see any thru hull bolts like in the link you sent me. I actually looked at that Groco seacock but thought that it would also stick way up away from the hull. Now that I see the diagram with the surrounding wood, I understand how to make it closer. I am going to send you a picture when I can, of the factory install of the thru hull from the macerator pump. It is sitting about 3 inches away from the hull, on a stem just as you are noting in my pic. Just as a point of info, what would make that stem split or break, since I can't get to it before the end of season I would like to avoid any forseeable mishaps? Thanks
Bob
ps I should have stayed with my bucket for cleaning!
 
I'm not sure what causes it to crack exactly, but it DOES happen. Stress? Corrosion? Wear? :?:

I highly doubt it would split during the first season, but change that valve to a seacock as soon as you can.

As far as Parker's way of installing a seacock, they don't even fasten it to the hull. It appears to be only caulked in place. It should be fastened AND caulked.

If you want to skip the backing block, at least fasten the seacock to the hull.
 
Has anyone used one common seacock from an existing livewell intake, and utilized it for adding a washdown pump as well? Is there any reason why not to do this? The idea of less holes in the boat appeals to me initially, without knowing better why I shouldn't.
 
Megabyte":xfz734pl said:
bobkat":xfz734pl said:
What is the size of that 90 degree pipe to hose fitting coming off the seacock? That is exactly what I was looking for. My thru hull fitting and seacock are 3/4 in. and I was trying to find a reducer that would bring me down to 1/2 in. which is what the intake on the Johnson pump is.

Bob... I'm not certain of the size, but I believe it is 3/4". If the intake on your Johnson pump is 1/2", I'd put a plumbing reducer there on the pump rather than limiting the size of the supply hose from the intake valve.

The whole raw water washdown system in my photos was a factory installed option in 1996, though I will say that I rarely use it. Most of the time I wash down with a bucket. :)

One other thing to consider... When you mount the washdown pump, orient the assembly with the pump on the bottom and the motor on the top. That way if there is any leakage from the pump, you won't have saltwater leaking into your motor, shortening its life.

Good luck on your project, and remember to take photos and post the results of your efforts! :wink:

The other piece of guidance I'd give you is to relieve the pressure on the pump when you are done for the day. Turn off the juice to the pump, and then open the spigot to relieve the pressure on the seals. Supposedly, over time, saltwater can leak past the seals and into the motor bearing...causing it to seize.

Ever since I started doing that, the pump lasts longer.

Dave

aka
 

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