Weighing options for isolated dual battery, single engine setup

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I've read all the previous posts I can find on the topic and can't quite find my answers, so here goes.
I'd like to convert my current two battery set up which simply uses either battery for both start and house, to a "split" system, i.e. a Start and House battery. It uses a Parker installed Blue Seas 6007 Selector (Off, 1, 2, Both). As best I can see it doesn't appear to be using an AUX from a 2019 F300 Yamaha, though that engine is capable of that. The current system I have had a Sea Dog Line Dual Battery Isolator installed between the batteries. One twist is that it has a 3rd battery (under cockpit hatch) for a bow thruster; it also appears to have an isolator between it and Battery 1.

I see a lot of praise for the BEP, and I thought that's what I wanted to do. However, now I have the following questions:
1) How would the BEP 715-H be installed in the current battery switch panel? At best it looks like some cutting a larger, horizontal opening would be required.
2) Since there's already an isolator between Start and House, would a Perko dual battery switch perform the same function with a simpler physical swap for the current switch? This switch gives all combinations of On/Off for the two batteries separately. https://www.perko.com/catalog/battery_switches/1085/dual_battery_selector_switch/
3) If I go with the BEP 715-H, the tech sheet shows House battery getting charged by the AUX from the engine, would that be required if there's an isolator between the batteries?
 

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Your Looking at the Wrong BEP Cluster [BEP715-H]

The one to use is

[716-SQ-140A-DVSR]​


I've installed a LOT of these. Forget the AUX. wire. You will need to parallel the Thruster Battery with the House battery and treat it as ONE battery... BUT.... I actually do not like that and that is a LONG run to parallel them. Rather see heavier cable and circuit protection to the Windless. Battery Not in Front.
Your panel in the pix, will need to be modified for sure.
 
I'm a fan of the e series dual circuit plus switch from Blue Seas and using the AUX charging cable to charge the house battery. I normally use an ACR to make sure both batteries (house and start) are charged, but with the AUX cable it's unnecessary.
 
Warthog - Thank you. I've got some questions on your reply I'm hoping you can help me with.
1) Since I already have an isolator between batteries 1&2 making sure the house can't run the start down, the only thing obvious to me that I see the BEP giving me, which I can't seem to find elsewhere, is the ability to control 1 & 2 independently. Is that true?
2) If I go w/ the BEP, and I'm inclined to based on your long standing recommendations, do you happen to know if the factory battery panel has room to be routed out for the BEP (2019 2520)?
3) If I go w/ the BEP, what do I do w/ the current isolator between 1 &2?
4) I'm most confused by your comments on the thruster battery, which currently operates pretty independently. It charges by virtue of an isolator from #1. It's worked fine for 4 years, always plenty of power for the thruster, can't run the start battery down because of the isolator. Why would I change anything about that?
 
1] Yes

2]No Clue... Look at the Spec and measure.

3] Delete it.

4] Not Sure..... I'd need to physically look the circuit over.... I was mainly concerned about safety and that the circuit was protected properly.
 
1] Yes

2]No Clue... Look at the Spec and measure.

3] Delete it.

4] Not Sure..... I'd need to physically look the circuit over.... I was mainly concerned about safety and that the circuit was protected properly.
Thank you! #2 might be my biggest issue, as the foot print of the 716 and those three existing breakers is greater than the current panel could accomodate.
As far as #4, it is circuit protected and was installed by a reputable company that specializes in nothing but installation of thrusters. So I'm not worried if I leave that as is.
 

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