What is your next upgrade?

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Well-known member
Feb 16, 2006
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Lewes, DE
Judging from the many project posts, and the interest in this section of ClassicParker, it appears that 'Parker folks' have lots of ideas on how they'd like to individualize their boats.

I'm no different, and I've already performed my share of upgrades. :)
However, I've gotten to the point where the upgrades I want to do are major purchaces, and must be deferred until funds become available.

This past winter, I was able to install the upgrade most prominent on my list - a cockpit driving station.


My next two upgrades will be equally taxing of available funds...

Next on my list, is a set of Lee Jr. 2" Wishbone outriggers like the ones seen here on a GW Sailfish that lives in my boatyard.


I want mine with a set of polished 19' outrigger poles, and double rigged for fishing here in the Chesapeake Bay. :wink:

The following year, my plan is to install radar.
My choice (at this point) is a Furuno 1933 10" mono CRT, 4kw, 48nm radar with a 3.5' open array.


Once I get to that point, I think I'll have everything I want (or need) for the area where I boat and fish.

How about you? What are your 'upgrade plans'? :D
next on my list is probably another electronics screen. I want to pick up 2006c or 2010c for fishfinder use only..

I would also like to add out riggers. Not sure of the type but most likely will just go with taco sport slams.
Next season ... teak deck in the cockpit:


or sell it and buy an Albin 28TE
For the few Volvo IO owners, I launched today, and I installed a flush kit last month and tested it in the water.

Volvo flush kit that holds Salt Away or Volvo's equivalent and suction from the raw water impeller pulls solution into the line. Has a solenoid valve that opens the flow.

I mentioned in another thread that I added a galvanic isolator last month too.

If things work out this summer I'm leaning toward a second fix mount VHF.

I've had radar since the boat was purchased...wouldn't leave home without it...especially at night with the many unlited bouys and pound nets.

Since the brakes are out on my trailer, my upgrade will involve disk brakes and electric over hydralic actuator.

After that it is probably going to be to fix that damn raw-water washdown pumb...will replace with a high-end Grocko.

After that, it is probably going to be outriggers.
Next major upgrade is going to be Side Scan Sonar. Not sure if it'll be a towed-fish array or a fixed transom unit like the Hummingbird 981C.

Anyone here on CP have any experience with the Hummingbird version of side scan? Dom and I are all ears 8)

Next year:
If time, I'll do a cockpit floor, but actually I'm more inclined to put on a new 250hp motor :) !

This year's upgrade ... or repair actually:
Put a hole on the edge of #3 piston last July. Decided to rebuild her, as the rest of the motor is in mint shape. I did all the wrench work myself and removed all electricals, coil, powerpack, starter, OMS, primer system, carbs, throttle bodies, intake manifold, linkages, controls, you name it ... myself.

Had a well knowned shop sleeve that one cylinder and then hone all 6 to match, so that new factory balanced pistons could be installed as a set. Also had the machine shop deck everything and blueprint all parts, and replace anything out of or close to out of spec.

It took me only 6-8 hours to strip the powerhead and remove it, all in December too. I also took digitial photos of the process and wrote a short "diary" of what came off when and what went where. I put it back together myself and less one small leak I need to chase down (after I pressurized the fuel system) ... she's ready to start.

It took me 3-4 times longer to re-assemble everything, but that's mainly due to the need for various goop on specific bolt threads (gasket compound, Permatex #2, or Lok-tite) plus the torquing sequence in inch-pounds and foot-pounds. Timing the carbs was easy, as I've done full sync & link checks before.

Best part ... by doing all of the wrench work myself, I saved anywhere from ~$2-3K off the price of a total rebuild. I also added a new fuel/oil pump so the motor will be like new.


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Wow,, like you really needed something else to do...

How did you know you had an issue? Knock, ping, rough idle? Or was it more severe? If you developed the problem in July, what did you do for the rest of the season?

So what were the final economics like? You saved a couple of grand by doing the labor yourself. So the total cost of the rebuild was..... 1/2 the cost of a repower? 1/12th the cost of a repower?

Great Job, Dale. An enormous undertaking.
cbigma":18wsr1is said:
How did you know you had an issue?

I had the same thought as I read Dales post... :shock:
Dale, that motor looks great with a fresh paint job!

Outriggers and radar are on my wish list, but what I didn't state was item #3... a 300 hp repower (someday). :wink:
Lucky for me, the present 225 OX66 is running like a champ. :)
For me the next Modification will be removing the box passenger seat and putting in one of these. I do a lot of winter Striper fishing and the crew likes to crowd the Pilothouse.

cbigma":17mcey8p said:
How did you know you had an issue? Knock, ping, rough idle? Or was it more severe?
Was out with Tom, heading out for tuna, and the seas were up – very sloppy, so we were cruising @ 20 knots to minimize the banging, but also trying to maximize fuel economy. If I lowered the bow more, the ride would be better, but I’d lose 20—30% off the fuel efficiency. We had the dreaded "no oil" alarm go off for a second, so I shut her down. There was oil in the remote tank, but it was being jostled by the wave action, so I topped her off and we continued.

Once I was putting back up onto plane, she was winding up around mid-4K RPMs, and I was going to start throttling her back to cruise speed when the engine just suddenly dropped 1000 RPMs. No alarms, no trembling, no noise, no nothing – just a loss of RPMs. I’ve had powerpacks do this, so we just idled back home a headway speed. Went to the dock, pulled the cover, and took plastic pliers and removed each plug wire 1-at-a-time when at idle. On every cylinder but #3, the RPMs would drop a bit when the good cylinders were unplugged. Not so on #3, which I now knew needed a compression check. Went home to get the gauge and she read zero, so I pulled the head. The Tech that did the rebuild believes it was a casting defect on the edge of that piston (on the exhaust port side) and that the head was otherwise mint and definitely rebuildable.

If you developed the problem in July, what did you do for the rest of the season?
Other Peoples' Boats :) !

So what were the final economics like? You saved a couple of grand by doing the labor yourself. So the total cost of the rebuild was ... 1/2 the cost of a repower? 1/12th the cost of a repower?
1/12th of new ... ?? I wish … ;) ! Put it this way, industry average to rebuild a “dressed” powerhead is $3-4K, which means removed from the OB with all fuel, electrical, and linkage parts removed. Rebuilds can cost $5-6K if you bring the boat/motor to the dealer to get done. So I saved more than a couple grand in reality. Either option was exceeding the inherent value of the motor itself and approaching the cost of a used motor in decent shape (~$8K+, if a few years newer, mine is a '97 model). Because I did all of the wrench work myself, plus the re-install and re-rig, I got it done for just over $2.5K.

Note that rebuild costs are tough to generalize, as it depends on how many other parts (wrist pins, bearings, etc.) should also be replaced, as you don’t want to throw new power (pistons) onto other worn engine parts. I essentially made it be like new.

My choices were to buy an unknown used motor ($8K+) but I couldn’t justify that given I could buy a new 250hp for $15K+, with warranty. I took the DIY rebuild option (less the machine work [sleeve]), mainly due to some financial constraints at present. But all in all, I had fun doing it, learned a lot, know the motor intimately inside and out, as well as every wire, harness, linkage, nut & bolt … and the best part … she should be “like new” in power and performance! Let's hope! I need a break this season :) .

So in short - in layman's terms- that would be a blown piston, I guess? Do you think the oil alarm had any connection to the event, or just coincidence? i.e. did the momentary loss of oil precipitate the failure, or did it fail first, and cause a blow-by that set the alarm off?

The only reason it matters is a warning to us all about the oil alarm.. and what are some of the possible consequences of it. :shock:

Sounds like you saved yourself a bundle and got to know your powerplant better than you ever thought you would want to. Great Job.