wiring diagram..2001 23 se?

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Capt. John Deering

Well-known member
Mar 27, 2006
Reaction score
Cape Coral, Fl.
anybody have a wiring diagram for a 2001 23se with 200 Yam. ox-66?
I have yam. manual no help. need diagram from batteries, to breaker panel and back to battery cutoff switch. I think i should only have two hot wires at the bat. switch from pos. batteries 1 &2. However, i have three can't figure out where the power is coming from? when i turn off bat. switch everything but bilge pump should be off. its not. in off position, when i cut the switch off, and turn the key on. the gauges turn on, but not enough power to crank either the main motor or kicker. suprised i never noticed this, but i was checking out a water temp. gauge and just started messing around.

on the back of the bat. swich looking straight at it, bat term#1 has only the pos bat. cable, bat terminal #2 has #2 pos. cable and the hot wire for the bilge pump. now the third terminal marked feeder has to red wires from the main motor and two other larger cables one is hot and one is not.

going nuts...

I can't follow your description exactly, but maybe this will help. This is a wiring diagram I did to figure out where everything went on my 1999.

The way I have it wired now, the main bilge pump was hard wired to the port battery at the battery switch.

The boat wasn't wired this way when I got it, I believe it was wired to the output of the switch, meaning if the switch was set to OFF the bilge pump wouldn't work.

There should be two big wires coming off the batt switch output, one should be the main power feed for everything but the bilge pumps, the other should go to the outboard.

The main power feed should have an inline fuse within a foot or so of the output of the battery switch.

I'm not sure how similar/different various models and years are on the wiring, so I won't go into any more detail. Ask more questions and we will try and help!

-- Tom


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tom, nice wiring diageam, sorry i was not cleat. i'll try again.

--when bat. switch is off nothing should work except the bilge pump. if i turn my key on while swich is off, my gauges light up so do accessories like trim tab indicators. nothing should turn on...correct?

-- i have three hot leads hooked up to my switch 2 from the batteries and the other i cannot figure out. probably need to get inside console and see where it goes. how many hot leads are going to your switch? two?

i have a total of 7 wires hooked up to the 3 terminals behind the bat switch. 2 pos. bat cables, bilge wire, two other wires not sure of 2 reds that go back into the motor ( i guess one to starter and and the other the rectifier?

hope this is better explanantion..thanks
Capt. John Deering":la1n8v6l said:
bat terminal #2 has #2 pos. cable and the hot wire for

the bilge pump.
That's a good way to have the bilge pump always wireed hot. I go direct to the battery, but that method makes sure it's hooked up ... just as long as battery #2 is installed that is ;) .

Now the third terminal marked feeder has to red wires from the main motor
This should be the COMMON terminal, meaning it will be fed as HOT regardless of the switch being turned to Battery #1 or #2. That switch vendor probably just marks it as "feed" but think "common" and this will help keep you straight.

Is that a typo there? Do you mean to say "two" red wires from the motor? Are both leads the same thickness? If not, what guage is the other one? Your motor is a 2001 ... one lead could possibly be an isolator lead so both batteries get charged when the OB is running. Course, with that being put onto the #2 post, it means that "system" (if that's what it truly is) was designed so the motor is to be started and run on battery #1, with battery #2 used for house electronics. Are your batteries the same type or is #1 a starting battery and #2 a deep cycle or combo starting /deep cycle? FWIW, that motor only needs a Group 24 and the combo starting /deep cycle ones would be fine for both battery positions.

... and two other larger cables one is hot and one is not.
I think your best course of action is to trace those leads back to their source. If I read the 2 quotes above, it appears like you have 4 leads on that common post.

I would be that if 2 are from the motor, the other 2 go foward to put power up to the main helm. Usually most boats are only rigged with 1 lead to the helm, but when I re-wired mine, I put in 2 runs, one for critical items (radio, radar, gps, depth, nav lights) and the other for non-critical items (washdown, livewell, cabin lighting, etc.). I also wired mine each with a jumper ready so each could also power the other circuit as needed ;) in an emergency.

Again, follow those leads forward and see where they go to. Then chime back in and we should be able to help you out more. But to answer your question directly, Parker does provide a basic electrical schematic diagram, so call them and have your HIN Hull ID Number ready.
Things change from one year to another.

I'd contact Robin at Parker Marine with the year, model, and hull serial number. They should be able to send you another wiring diagram specific to your boat.
Agreed, call Parker.

FWIW Tom had sent me a copy of the Visio source file he used to create his wiring schematic and I customized it to my re-wired hull.


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UPDATE: But first for site mgmt. i received the following error message a couple times over the past few days when atttempting to do things, i.e. make a reply to a post on the board. It says:

phpBB: critical error

Could not connect to database

My elec. question/s. I did find a wire hooked directly up to the pos. terminal of #2 battery. Removed it and the switch operstes correctly...nothing turns on with the switch in the off position...like before!

The wire I disconnected went to one terminal of the Amp meter for the kicker motor (which as never worked) AND a lead also went to the stereo radio wire which said 12V memory. I did hook up the wire I pulled off #2 bat. post to the positive side of the fuse panel. Don't know why just did it. The guy who wired the boat... kciker, ttop, etc, is the one who originally hooked the jumper wire to the #2 pos. post.

now i need to figure the amp meter thing out. frustrating but i guess it builds character.