woody too projects for this winter

[woodytoo]

i bought my parker 2520xl last winter, and fished it for the year pretty much as it was. now that i have her in my barn, it has been good to spend some shop time with her. so i have the long list of the usual layup stuff. i pulled everything off of her, and changed the oil, gear oil, zincs, bottom scrape etc. i also have cleaned all the bright work, and polished the hull. for projects i have to rebuild the hydraulic cylendar, and replace the water pump. I am also working on an electronic facelift, and adding a new chartplotter, autopilot, fuel flow meter, and deck floodlights.

I am kind of stuck with the temperatures too cold for sealants and gel-coat repairs, but i am slowly ticking items off. so far things are going pretty well, but i am sure i will have a ton of questions before i am through.

here are some pics of the progress so far ..... Bo

 

[esfishdoc]

Looks like you are having a great time and doing a great job.

The temps are getting up to around 45 today and the sun is out... I'm going to take advantage of this warm front.

 

[Uncle Matt]

I wish I had a barn!!!!! Good for you. Keep up the good work and enjoy.

 

[Megabyte]

Nice job!
Looks like a carbon copy of my project.

While GW204 was wielding the sabre saw, I was inside the back of the helm with a shop vac in hand...
and I still had fiberglass dust everywhere! :shock:

 

[woodytoo]

thanks guys, yup i am having fun at it. kevin ... great setup. i was looking at moving the guages myself, but decided to leave them alone. i like the cell phone mount as well, i need to go to the verizon store and see what kind of options are there for the phone. they still have not shipped my autopilot, so i am kinda chomping at the bit to get the hydraulic and electronics work done. i am planning on 2 things this weekend ... watching the daytona 500 ... and attacking my hydraulic cylendar.

later - bo

 

[woodytoo]

turned out to be a decent day today. the wife and i ran all over the place looking for some parts and a stop at the grocery store. i needed some fuel line for the navman ducer setup, wet dry paper for gel coat follies, hydraulic hose and tie wraps. unfortunately the local marine dealer was closed " at the boat show" the sign says. friggen small towns, stranded again without parts for 2 weeks in a row! i did get good marine fuel line at napa, and a good assortment of wet dry grits so all was not lost.

today i went ahead and mounted the navman ducer. so that meant a morning upside down snaking things around in the bildge. no pictures on the install but basically as i understand, you have to install it so the fuel flows up through the ducer vertically and between the filter and the priming bulb. I also wanted to make sure all fuel connections were above the fuel tank so that i would not have a siphon thing going on if something went wrong. so i ended up mounting it on the back transom bulkhead up behind the fishbox.

next i did the seal replacement on the seastar cylendar. i was nervous about it, but it ended up being a messy but straight forward job. I will not be able to bleed it until i get a little piece of hydraulic hose (my parts guy was closed remember ... grrr).

- bo

 

[Parker23]

how do you get the new seal on to the shaft, i see you take the nut off the end but how do you seperate the shaft form that black arm?

 

[woodytoo]

you pull the mount bracket off of the engine. look on picture cylkit3. it is a through shaft with a 3/4" hex nut on both sides. pull the nut off of it, and the cylendar shaft and the whole black assembly "theoretically" comes off. then you can get the seal off the shaft. on my port side today, the mount was seized onto the cylendar shaft. so i ended up pulling the other side off, and giving it a stern whacking to free it. once it came loose, i put the opposite side back together, and proceeded as directed. the instructions in the kit are pretty good, and there is a good parts breakdown in the shop manual.

-bo

 

[Outta Here]

I re-sealed my Sea-Star cylinder and raised my motor a hole last fall. The boat is 4 seasons old, used only in saltwater. Every bolt on the steering and transom motor bolts came off like they had been put on yesterday.

I'd like to think that was because I have always sprayed white lithium grease on all the exposed bolts 3 or 4 times every season.

I also installed a Yamaha Fuel Management. The sending unit would screw directly into the fuel filter base and the existing fuel line screws into the end of the sending unit. Good point about the connections being above fuel tank to avoid siphoning.

 

[Parker23]

Thanks i thought that black bracket was threaded to the motor,it makes sense to me now thanks. Mine is leaking also will try seal but might need new ram i see a nick on it but can not convince myself that is causing the leak Thanks for the pictures of repair!

 

[gw204]

Nice work!

Can you share where you got the Sea-Star seal kit? I think I may have to make the same repair on my Grady.

 

[woodytoo]

i got the kit from my parker dealer mid atlantic marine. i am sure you can get it from any good marine parts distributor. he actually ordered the kit for me. just get the model of your cylendar - there is a model number sticker on the cylendar itself. then have your parts guy order the kit for you cylendar. specify that you need the wrench as well (they have 2 kits one with the wrench and one without). my kit was something like hc5157. you can also double check the right kit number through the seastar web site. the kit is pricy ~ 100 bucks.

good on you fishfactory on greasing the parts. after seeing the beginings of corrosion on the mounts i am going to do the same going forward. thinking of using corrosion inhibitor for that task. on the fuel flow sender, the navman ducer instructions say to install it vertically as it helps clear air bubbles through the turbine in the ducer. i am really looking forward to having the system installed, i feel that a good fuel management is a must on a small craft.

bo

 

[Megabyte]

on the fuel flow sender, the navman ducer instructions say to install it vertically as it helps clear air bubbles through the turbine in the ducer. i am really looking forward to having the system installed, i feel that a good fuel management is a must on a small craft.

Bo...

Here is how I did mine.

I glued four zip-tie mounts to the motor bracket backing plate with marine silicone... Once dry, I attached the fuel transducer to the mounts with zip-ties.

Keeps the 'ducer secure and vertical. :wink:

 

[woodytoo]

another update. i completed the navman 2100 ducer and cable install. shook my head at previous aftermarket wiring installs, and pulled it all out and cleaned up the electronics panel behind the dash. I have allot more coming in, so figured it was now or never.

while i had all that going on, i put a space heater in the cabin, and warmed it up nice and toasty. i couldn't put it off anymore, it was time to try my hand at filling holes and gel-coat on the console. so i re-read porkchunkers abc's of gel-coat, and off to the races i went. i grinded off rough spots with my dremel and then backfilled and filled all the holes and sanded it all down. I mixed and applied the gel-coat as following porkchukers recepe as close as possible, then used the clear boxing tape to cover the area.

i kept heat on over the last couple days, and i got a chance to check it tonight. i sanded it down with 100 and 220, and that is where it is now. it came out really well. I have to hit the spot in the small circle again (air bubble it looks like), but the big holes look pretty good. thanks to y'alls help, i am really optimistic about how this is going to turn out.

-bo

 

[Themis]

Wow.

 

[Megabyte]

Nice work Bo! 8)

 

[Capt. John Deering]

hey guys, do the electronics mounted so close to the compass cause any interference problems?

 

[Megabyte]

hey guys, do the electronics mounted so close to the compass cause any interference problems?

Capt John...

Interestingly enough, my compass didn't move a bit even after installing all of my new gear.
The compass bearing on the GPS screen matches the Ritchie exactly.

Either Garmin and Furuno shield their gear pretty well, or I got lucky.

I was actually prepared to have my compass recalibrated locally, but after installation I found that it wasn't needed.

 

[woodytoo]

Hey John - I agree with Kevin.

I actually checked that very carefully, with the unit powerd down and up. I had no deviation issues even when I put the unit right by the compass powered up. Now put a screwdriver or cell phone up there, and it is a complete different answer.

Kevin - I am glad you are seeing the same thing!

Bo

 

[Porkchunker]

Nice work.

I don't have any deviation problems with the Raymarine displays either. They must be using better shielding these days.