1994 Parker 2320 extended cabin open back project

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Madgar, thanks for the link. I called them and they are setting me up with a quote for the materials needed to finish the roof. Excellent customer service. They took the time to listen what I had going and advised me a course of action.


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Is that marine plywood cut to fit yet? Want to see how your going to bend it for the curvature of the roof. I put down resin first after cleaning the entire surface with acetone then screw her down. With bondo I filled in the edge cracks and voids then released the screw after it was cured. The plywood stayed put and I glasses over it. You have a whole roof your doing and keeping it down might be near impossible unless you cut lines in it to give it some flexibility so it will lay down flat on the roof. Don't want that flinging back up and delaminating from the underside of your pilot house. Giving you a heads up hopefully everyone will join in on this topic and give there opinion to to point you in the right directions. Census is that's how I do it.
 
kidfreediver":x77kklkc said:
Is that marine plywood cut to fit yet? Want to see how your going to bend it for the curvature of the roof. I put down resin first after cleaning the entire surface with acetone then screw her down. With bondo I filled in the edge cracks and voids then released the screw after it was cured. The plywood stayed put and I glasses over it. You have a whole roof your doing and keeping it down might be near impossible unless you cut lines in it to give it some flexibility so it will lay down flat on the roof. Don't want that flinging back up and delaminating from the underside of your pilot house. Giving you a heads up hopefully everyone will join in on this topic and give there opinion to to point you in the right directions. Census is that's how I do it.

I have not cut the plywood yet. I expect delivery on it tomorrow. My “plan” is to cut the patches and see how they lay down. If quite a bit of spring or tension is observed I plan on back cutting the plywood to help it lay flat. Before laying the pieces onto the wetted out surface I would then fill the grooves with thickened epoxy as not to compromise the strength. Thanks for the tip!


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mheltunen":3fp2fned said:
Madgar, thanks for the link. I called them and they are setting me up with a quote for the materials needed to finish the roof. Excellent customer service. They took the time to listen what I had going and advised me a course of action.


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Glad to hear they could help you, or at least try to. You are right, awesome customer service.
As for the plywood though, I would imagine their shipping would be expensive to Michigan (I just paid attention to your location). You may want to check with some local yards to see what they can do for that. Unfortunately when you only need a little bit the shipping kills you. If you need 6 or 7 sheets their prices with shipping usually still beats any others (at least anyone near me). Best of luck and keep posting your progress, enjoying reading about it.

Kidf - you make an interesting point. I'mnot sure how thick of piece is needed but the 1/4" Okoume will bend a lot, in fact I know it would have no trouble bending much further than the requirement of the pilot house. Maybe multiple layers of 1/4 will work but I imagine the 1/2" would bend enough too. Definitely something to think about.
 
I did end up sourcing the marine plywood locally. Due to the fact it’s for a roof and not a hull section I decided that lumberyard marine plywood would suffice.


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As if I diddnt have enough loose ends I started removing the old (and “new”) caulking. This is a hateful job. Some quick googling revealed by mixing paint thinner and isopropyl alcohol then brushing it over the old caulk it would lose its bond. I gave it a try and it worked very well. A brass wire wheel in a cordless drill also helped remove some of the more stubborn areas.


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MadGar":2ph8kbg9 said:
mheltunen":2ph8kbg9 said:
I did end up sourcing the marine plywood locally. Due to the fact it’s for a roof and not a hull section I decided that lumberyard marine plywood would suffice.


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I agree with you, post pics as you progress [emoji38]
You have Seastar ram which can be rebuilt inexpensively and repainted or Warthog used an Uflex system. See his 2530 thread. If you replace the hoses go with 1500 psi. The helm pump unit can reused or rebuilt, or replaced. On Hull Truth somewhere is a tutorial on rebuilding
Very interesting in

B2
 
Brent":bzuaf47o said:
MadGar":bzuaf47o said:
mheltunen":bzuaf47o said:
I did end up sourcing the marine plywood locally. Due to the fact it’s for a roof and not a hull section I decided that lumberyard marine plywood would suffice.


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I agree with you, post pics as you progress [emoji38]
You have Seastar ram which can be rebuilt inexpensively and repainted or Warthog used an Uflex system. See his 2530 thread. If you replace the hoses go with 1500 psi. The helm pump unit can reused or rebuilt, or replaced. On Hull Truth somewhere is a tutorial on rebuilding
Very interesting in

B2

Originally it had the seastar helm and ram. I recently ordered and changed it to a Uflex system. The old seastar ram was leaking and I was unable to find any part numbers on it. Instead of fighting leaks on an old system I decided it would be nice to have something new on the boat.


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I’ve read thru quite a bit of his thread. Terrific work. For some reason I’m not able to view some of the pictures though.


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If you use Chrome you can download an extension. It’s called Photobucket hotlink fix.


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Any known “fix” for an iPhone? I’m rarely on a PC anymore?


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After repeated attempts to contact Parker with a request for information and no reply I’m at a loss and disappointed with them. Does anyone know what the weight capacity of my bracket would be? Looking forward (when budget allows) I want to add a 9.9hp kicker engine for trolling and to keep hours off the big motor.


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Stainless Marine made the bracket and can help you.

http://www.stainlessmarine.com/product- ... -brackets/

I have a Yamaha 9.9 kicker on a Stainless Marine bracket and works fine but not connected to main steering ram. We removed it for now bc OB thefts are common
Fuel line goes to a valve on the Racor fuel head

They have zincs, drain plugs and paint, too,

The down side is the top bracket hatch. It leaks (poor design), Warthog enlarged the hole for an Armstrong waterproof hatch to stop leaks. See his 2530 project thread
He also drilled drainage holes where the OB mounts to the bracket to keep the area clean
 
Thanks Brent. I sent them off an inquiry email regarding the capacities.


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Does anyone know a gel coat color code for a 1994 vintage? I cannot get a response from Parker . I’ve contacted 2 dealers as well and they are saying they cannot ship it to me due to it being hazardous material. I’m starting to run out of options.


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mheltunen":kynmza3k said:
Does anyone know a gel coat color code for a 1994 vintage? I cannot get a response from Parker . I’ve contacted 2 dealers as well and they are saying they cannot ship it to me due to it being hazardous material. I’m starting to run out of options.


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http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/parker ... sic-white/

I think this may be it.
 
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