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Clean 1997 Parker 2520 DV 2006 280hp Volvo I/O Duo prop 350 hours FOR SALE http://www.popyachts.com/View/79767 Call Paul 781-843-7181

Well, I quit gabbing and went to work. Two days with a Volvo certified mechanic last year failed to find the problem, so I figured if you need a hand, look to the end of your arm. To start, I hooked up a legnth of hose on the outlet of the raw water pump , with a clear section, to check volume...

Let me know how it goes.

Something I didn't mention. Launched the boat couple of days ago. Went from the yard to my mooring, about four miles, various speeds, mostly lower rpm's. One stretch I had it about 2500 rpms. All OK until the mooring. I left it idling while I hooked the boat up. When I got back to the wheel, the...

Mechanic put in a new raw water pump, checked the thermostat visually, said the codes would not help in this situation. Second mechanic said he thought a t-stat problem was unlikely.

Was not a refill situation.

I have been fighting an overheat issue with this engine for two years. It's closed cooling, I/O dp-s drive. I've worked on it myself and with a Volvo certified mechanic. The risers are two years old and rechecked. The raw water pump replaced. The thermostat checked. The outdrive pulled, gaskets...

Starting to get too complicated for me. Starting to see a general mess evolving. Thinking I'll just get another set of the originals. Don't like to go without since the door is looking like it wants to warp outward at the top.

Looks like it might work. Why not epoxy it to the frame?

I mentioned the angle iron because the block that the catch receptacle is screwed to runs fore and aft, inside the frame. I don't think there's room on the frame edge for a magnet.

The thing with magnets is you would have to put up angle irons or something in the doorway for the magnet to grab, restricting space going through the door. Of course, they would also rust. Stainless is not magnetic.

The cabin door latches, or grabbers, at the top and bottom of my cabin door fail repeatedly. They are the black plastic ones. Does anyone have a better idea? Link shows what I have. On my third set. http://www.westmarine.com/southco-marin ... P014473086

Instruction manuals say not to do it, but I see many ignoring it. Its awkward taking the motor off and putting it on again at the destination. I was wondering how many boaters cheat and just tow it with the motor on or if someone has had a bad experiance(or never).

These are Optimax 12v batteries. Completely sealed, so no hrygrometer test. They are considered spiral wound? which is a little different than AGM, but along the same idea, I guess. The only reasonable answer I got so far is take them out and have them load tested.

I have two optimax spiral wound batteries and was wondering how I can determine their condition. They're about three years old and are completely sealed. I don't want to find out the hard way

Jamestx, I would like to find out where you found a cheaper Volvo 3858975 cap. I'll try to post pics of the cap and rotor.

How often do you replace the cap and rotor? They just looked a little burnt to me and do not feature waiting for the engine to start misfiring when I'm out there somewhere. Somehow a hundred bucks a year doesn't seem right either.

Every year I look at the distributor cap and rotor. They usually look somewhat burned after about 100 hrs. use. Is this normal? Can they be cleaned up? I usually replace them. Basically I'm tired of spending $82 for the cap and $23 for the rotor every year. This is a 2006 5.7l Volvo GI-F. Would...

repowered in 2006 (Volvo-Penta 5.7l gi-f) with dps outdrive. This engine comes with an integral fuel filter bracket that is part of the fuel pump assembly. Being concerned about ethanol problems, I asked the mechanic if it would make sense to add a racor filter also. He told me at the time it...

I have a 2520 IO with one of the props a 4 blade, still won't turn the bow in wind when in reverse.