1988 Parker Sou'Wester Deck and Fuel tank Replacement

[Final-lee]

Boat was bought brand new in 1988.
3 years ago we repowered with a 250 etec from the original 225 Johnson with all new controls and gauges.
2 years ago was a full electronics upgrade (Simrad NSS and Furuno Radar)
Last year was a full lighting upgrade (New Spreaders, Under the gunnel LEDs, Cockpit LEDs and Nav lights)

So we've decided to start my next big project on our 1988 Parker. The deck and fuel tank.

Over the past few years we have been noticing a growing weak spot in the deck mainly behind both of the inspection plates right down the middle. After researching the issue and fixing it with temporary band aides its time for a deck replacement. While I have the deck ripped up I also figured I could solve one of the biggest issues I have with her. The fuel tank size. Currently she has a 75 gal tank (that's are best guestimation as Parker couldn't even give us the exact answer) which leaves us with around 70 useable gallons.

The plan:
I have emailed Parker with my hull number trying to get the stringer layout but haven't gotten anything yet. They have to check the archives. My plan is to cut the deck right out and replace with Coosa 26 and glass it in with 1708.

I also want to put a bigger gas tank in somewhere in the 100-125 gal range.

The Questions:
Has anybody done this on this year/style?
What problems did you run into?
Any suggestions/tricks to help me along?
Does anyone have the stringer layout?

Thanks for the help and I'll keep the post updated with my progress.

 

[Megabyte]

My 1996 2520 MVSC has a main tank that is 127 gallons according to the tank tag.
Your hull is older, but essentially the same as mine, so a similar tank would most likely fit your boat.

If you look at the photo below, you can see the deck hatches for my tanks (my boat has 3 tanks).
The main tank is the hatch directly down the center line, and right in front of the bilge hatch.
The forward hatch is not visible in this photo, but is visible in the second.
Hopefully that will give some ideas...

 

[windknotnc]

I am pretty sure the stringer/box construction is the same in the pilot house as the center console. What size is your 1988.

 

[Final-lee]

Megabyte: I would love to fit 127 gal in there. My only problem is that if I can't find the stringer plan to preorder the tank I will have to wait until the deck is removed to do the measuring or preorder something smaller to ensure it fits. I was hoping to have it all ordered and ready to go so that the day I cut it out I can start putting it back together. Can't afford to miss those early spring stripers

windknotnc: Sorry thought I had included that. Its a 25.

 

[Southern Style]

I own the exact same model and year boat.I had to replace the fuel tanks also ( 2 80 gal.tanks ).Tanks were pitted badly.I replaced with One 125 gal.tank.Original floor was soft in a few spots,that's what made me open it up.Top 3" of stringers were soft also,so I cut out and replaced.Had a pro glass everything in properly ( I didn't know anything about fiberglass ).I held a 2" margin all around floor and cut out with skill saw.Once you open it up ,it will make sense to you.Biggest pain in a$$ is digging out foam.I'm very happy with how it all turned out.I fish this boat hard,it has been good to me.I'm very computer ignorant,so I don't know how to post pictures.Feel free to ask any questions.

 

[MDP]

I have a 1989 23 DV CC hull that I just replaced the deck, main stringers, and fuel tank in this past year. I have pics of the rebuild but not sure how to post them for you to view. If someone will chim in on how to post the pics I will do so. My boat had a 155 gallon aluminum tank. It was 93"x28". These older boats were set up to run a single or twin motors. Not sure how much difference there is in my center console vs cabin hull.

 

[Megabyte]

I have pics of the rebuild but not sure how to post them for you to view. If someone will chim in on how to post the pics I will do so.

Here you go:
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=27

 

[Final-lee]

Thanks for the help guys. It looks like I'll be starting after the new year. A buddy of mine has a 40ftx60ft pole barn that can fit the boat in the doors so it looks like I'll be nice and warm and dry to get her ready before the March stripers get here.

I do have a question about what tanks you guys used. Did you go aluminum, plastic, composite what? I know I could be opening a can of worms here as I'm sure everyone has their preference. A few local shops in Cape May area have plastics in stock and I also have a an aluminum guy that does awesome work that says he has a 2 week turnaround time.

Right now the plan is to order the coosa and 1708 ahead of time and deal with the tank once I cut the deck out. Coosa lead times seem like an issue, unless someone knows of a dealer in NJ/PA/DE area.

It also seems like the issue started around the two inspection ports above the tank, so I'm definitely going to be getting better ones. Anyone have an opinion on them? I was looking at more of the screw down kind as I currently have the ones that snap in and they always seem to leak.

 

[Megabyte]

Tank preference... aluminum.
If possible, take your old tank to the fabricator and just ask him to duplicate it.

 

[MDP]

1989 DV CC rebuild. Not sure if you can see in the coffin box but I removed 6.5 gallons of trapped water from under the fuel tank. Removed main stringers due to water intrusion /rot. All of this was due to Parker not glassing the underside of the main deck in these boats. Rot started between the bilge and under floor live well hatches.

 

[Brent]

m2cw

If I was doing this project or having it done, I would remove deck, survey, photograph and measure the layout twice, record on paper then pull the tank and hoses, re measure the area and see if a larger AL tank will fit and allow for good ventilation and drainage, make any repairs, then go to a tank guy and discuss. I would have the tank coated with coal tar epoxy, install deck solar fans after project is done and depending on the layout add a larger deck hatch to access bilge pump (good time to add second pump and alarm... spend more money) , fuel filters, batteries, etc. Take a minute and look at Bobby Wartman (Warthog) 2530 projects thread and his Classic Mako projects. excellent It makes sense to add 2 tank fuel vents to the new tank and many use WEMA fuel sender units but ask your tank guy what he uses. I would allow more time for this project for better results. Your friends will take you fishing ... After the deck is removed , post pics for new feedback and another round of suggestions

 

[Brent]

Deck plates leak and require regular maintenance (seal deck edges, seal plate assembly with sealant to deck, keep clean and lube O -rings

 

[Megabyte]

Not sure what year it was that Parker started sealing the underside of the decks but you got a good 25 years out of her, so that is impressive enough.
We now know that sealing the underside of the deck, sealing any hatch openings, and protecting the core edges will make her last even longer.
We even know now that larger limber holes are in order, and ventilation of the interstitial space is vital.

Do these things and you won't have to worry about her for another 50 years. :wink:

 

[MDP]

Check out Space Age Synthetics.com. They are in Fargo, ND. I contacted them and was able to replace my deck with their Synthetic 3/4" board. It is identical to the Pensky board. It was cheaper for me to buy from them and pay the freight than to buy local. Product is lighter than marine plywood and very solid with no rot.

 

[Final-lee]

MDP what board did you use?

I checked into the Space Age guys and liked what I saw from the Thermo-Lite Board® Tough. Pretty much the same stats as the coosa 26 but in a 24 density. I also have a company in my town that is a supplier for them so I would be able to skip the shipping cost :mrgreen:

What resin did you use?

I also got the stringer layout from Parker today. Parker said it "should" be the same as the 1991 Modified V. I guess the only way to really be sure is when I cut the deck out.

 

[MDP]

Final-Lee. The Themro-Lite board is what I used. I am very impressed with the product. I checked with a local supplier on the Pensky board( I think the name has now changed to Airex Board). Best price locally was $180.00 per 4x8 sheet and Space Age Synth. was $130.00 per sheet. Freight on 6 sheets to North Carolina was $165.00 to a friends business address. Both products are basically the same, high density fiberglass infused board. I used polyester resin from local boat supply shop.

 

[Final-lee]

Here is the stringer layout I got from Parker. Looks pretty close to what I expected even though its not the exact year. Quick calculations put the max tank size in the 150 gal range. Probably going to look for something in the 100-125 range to give me some wiggle room and save a little weight.

Hopefully after I verify that my local store has the correct board size, I'll start cutting out and posting pics.

 

[Final-lee]

Time for an update.

The deck is cut.

We quickly found out that none of the pics anyone shared with us or the stringer layout we received from Parker was correct for our boat. Awesome. Instead of a 27" tank opening in the middle we have 3 sets of 16" cavities. Also none of the three cavities are filled with foam. We also found about 2" of ice on top of the tank, which was pretty shocking, but the tank looks clean and pit free after cleaning it up.

Now for the new questions/plans/ideas:

We found that the deck core was 1" and not 3/4" like we planned out for, so we are going to have to adjust our materials.

After calculating the center cavity size we can only get a 88 gallon tank if we stay with the same shape as the factory one. Not big enough. We diagramed the entire layout and we will be reaching out to our tank builder tomorrow for options. Looks like we will probably be cutting the two stringers and moving them out a few inches to gain enough room for a larger tank (100-125 gallons)

Onto some good news. After cutting a 52" x 106" section out we have found clean dry core from there to the sides so we won't have to remove the entire deck.

We will also be replacing all hoses to the tank and I had an idea that I wasn't able to search out. Does anyone use stainless braided lines for their tanks? I was wondering since we put these on trucks and off road vehicles all the time, why wouldn't they work on the boat? Any thoughts?

 

[Final-lee]

This wouldn't fit with the others

 

[miketheserviceguy]

I am pretty sure the stringer/box construction is the same in the pilot house as the center console. What size is your 1988.

If you 1988 boat has a bolted down pilot house than it has the same stringer/fuel tank set up as the CC boat-they were all the same hulls back then and only the cabin sole was different.