200 hour service suggestions?

[TheOtherLine]

Bringing in the boat for the 200 hour service. Anything other than what's in the operators manual that I should be having done?

F250, still under warranty.

 

[Bryan 2530]

Did your motor have the throttle linkage recall??

The 200's and 225's did for most years, yours may be newer than the recall.

 

[TheOtherLine]

Did your motor have the throttle linkage recall??

The 200's and 225's did for most years, yours may be newer than the recall.

Good question. I don't recall receiving anything in the mail from Yamaha and I was not able to come up with any sites that list TSB's or recall info on Yamaha motors.

My linkage seems smooth enough. I'll ask the tech if he knows of any issues there.

By the way, does anyone know of any site that list TSB's on Yamaha motors?

 

[TheOtherLine]

Never mind. I found it on the Yamaha site under, get this...

"Factory Modification Campaigns" :roll:

Wow.

 

[Tjay]

The dealer will get you for around $200.00. Get Yammy manual.
The 200 Hr service is very basic.

 

[TheOtherLine]

The dealer will get you for around $200.00. Get Yammy manual.
The 200 Hr service is very basic.

Although I probably could do it myself, by the time I buy the manual, special tools if any, etc, I'm not saving that much money.

I've resigned myself to the notion that some things are best left to the pros that know what they are doing. They are worth every penny. Finding the right pro is the trick.

Boat gets hauled out for the 200 service this Thursday. I put it on the trailer Friday and start doing all the "stuff" that's hard to do when it's on the lift.

1) Wax boat. Just got my Collinite in the mail yesterday.
2) Take the prop off, have it tuned.
3) Repair the nicks and repaint the skeg.
4) Remove the anchor roller, clean and grease. It hasn't been "rolling" very well lately.
5) Clean up the frays in the anchor line splice. The windless likes to chew up the splice.

Then, do some springtime adjusting;

Rethink what's in the ditch bag, replace, delete add stuff.

Rethink how I store stuff, where to put it etc.,

Redo my tackle storage setup.

Spray all electrical connections with Boeshield.

Check for loose connections.

Now that I think about it, I think I'm going to start a new topic....

 

[Porkchunker]

The dealer will get you for around $200.00. Get Yammy manual.
The 200 Hr service is very basic.

Although I probably could do it myself, by the time I buy the manual, special tools if any, etc, I'm not saving that much money.

I've resigned myself to the notion that some things are best left to the pros that know what they are doing. They are worth every penny. Finding the right pro is the trick....

My sentiments exactly. I have disassembled lower units, replaced gears and shift dogs, replaced water pumps, pulled powerheads, split cases, honed cylinders, installed rings, disassembled and cleaned carbs, and all that stuff. But...I don't have the time any more to do that work and I'm happy to have a pro do the work.

Last year I replaced the drum brakes on my trailer with Kodiak disks. About the same time, I changed the oil and filters in my twin F-115s. Both of these activities are well documented with pictures here on CP.

Earlier this year, I disassembled a windlass and replaced two gears and a seal, and reassembled.

Every spring, I do some amount of gelcoat repair, and other minor maintenance.

But today I dropped the boat off at Tri-State Marine for the annual service on my twin F-115s. Tri-State will do what is necessary for a 700 hour service, replace water pumps, fix the SeaStar hydraulic cylinder, and replace the fuel filters. I could do most of that work myself, but I just don't have the time. Harvey at Tri-State gets my vote for doing this work at this point in my life. Maybe someday when I'm retired and have time on my hands, I'll go back to doing that work. But right now I'd rather use the boat than spend so much time maintaining it.

Dave

aka

 

[TheOtherLine]

Called the dealer today to schedule the 200 hour service.

He says, "You want the 200 hr minor service or major service?"

I didn't know that there was two levels of service. So, the bottom line is that with the "major" service they replace the water pump, timing belt and thermostat, whether it needs it or not. Additionally, the do all the the other basic stuff; oil, filters, plugs, etc.,

Minor service $200/ Major service $495.

I can see replacing the thermostat. In my I/O, they were always failing, but the water pump? Impeller, ok. Timing belt?

I'm no wrench but this doesn't sound right....What a croc....

 

[grouperjim]

the f250 owners manual supplied with your boat tells what to do at 200 hrs.

essentially $85 (retail) worth of parts/oil/filters/grease, and less than an hour labor.

FF ish is correct about the water pump.........will last much longer than 200 hrs if not run through the sand and mud.

 

[TheOtherLine]

I did look at the manual before I called. There is a list of items some of which are to be "inspected" and presumably, if bad, replaced. The manual says that some items can be "inspected" replaced by the owner, other items should only be done by a certified Yammie Tech. The assumption of this dealer is that his "major" 200hr service just replaces the major components that the manual says "inspect".

Like I said, I could do the oil change, filters, anodes, plugs, etc., but for the time and money involved, just as soon let them do it. Plus, I don't "enjoy" doing that stuff.

I do "enjoy" detailing and waxing, so even though it makes economic sense for me to hire someone to do it, I will do it. For me it's therapeutic.

 

[MaxOut]

The Yamaha recommendations on service are a little overkill but it is a universal guide that applies to all types of use. Use common sense and replace what needs replacing. I have 400 hrs on original timing belt and it is as new. It is easy to inspect as it is right on top of the engine. The plugs I replaced at 200hrs and the ones I took out looked brand new. I saved the old ones and will put them back in at 400hrs. (Today). The water pump is a judgment call. If you have been in some murky water or brushed bottom a few times I would at least check it. I am replacing the entire pump for the first time as I got close to bottom a couple times this year at 400hrs.

Diffidently change the oil, oil filters, fuel filters and lube all lube points. Beyond that inspect everything and replace what is worn. Use common sense or find a mechanic that is honest and will tell you what does or doesn't need replacing. I have a friend with 3000 hours on original everything...........everything including engine oil! Only thing changed was the fuel filter once and the lower unit oil once. Original water pump. He works the boat/motor and idles constantly and has had no issues. Yet. I would not recommend this but it goes to show you that allot of the changing plugs and over servicing is a way for Yammy and there dealers to make some jingle :wink:

 

[Porkchunker]

Rule of thumb is to replace the water pump impellers at least every 3 years...no longer. They can get brittle, shed a vane, and the vane can go up into the block and clog a passageway. Not worth the problem.

I have 70 hrs on my twin F-115s. I don't believe the timing belts have been changed.

Dave

aka

 

[goinsfishin]

Rule of thumb is to replace the water pump impellers at least every 3 years...no longer. They can get brittle, shed a vane, and the vane can go up into the block and clog a passageway. Not worth the problem.

aka

The housing can also get brittle over time, and the metal spacers and plates are also wear items.
IMHO you are better off to replace the whole assembly rather than just the impeller. The entire kit is not much more expensive than just the impeller.

 

[TheOtherLine]

Yeah, well, hate to say it but I have gotten into some skinny water and while I have NOT run aground, I have stirred up some bottom. No damage to the vegetation.

Might as well replace the impeller. Nothing worse that being out and hearing the temp alarm go off. Not that I've ever heard that before

 

[sparky]

Rule of thumb is to replace the water pump impellers at least every 3 years...no longer. They can get brittle, shed a vane, and the vane can go up into the block and clog a passageway. Not worth the problem.

aka

The housing can also get brittle over time, and the metal spacers and plates are also wear items.
IMHO you are better off to replace the whole assembly rather than just the impeller. The entire kit is not much more expensive than just the impeller.

Th biggest wear spot other than the impeller is the wear plate at the bottom. The impeller rubs against that 100% of the time, and any sand that gets in the WP will grind the plate down. Its a $35 kit, iirc. I've got one sitting on my desk for our F225, and one for our Zuke 200. Its about a 2 hour job if you've done it before, maybe 4 if you really take your time and whatnot. The biggest PITA is getting the LU back on and tight.