25' with a diesel......questions....

[AkJohn]

Hello All,
Just signed on here and learning about Parkers, I like what I see so far but have plenty of questions.
The boat I am looking at is a 1994 25' short cabin with the Volvo turbo diesel, supposendly the motor has 600 hours......?

http://anchorage.craigslist.org/boa/2051840864.html

The seller has limited info about the boat and it is 400 miles away and I will not get a chance to take a look for several weeks.
The question is what should I be looking for with this engine & outdrive combo?
What can I expect for fuel use and cruise speed?
Any other things about the hull that I should know about or be looking for?

Thanks.......John
Fairbanks Alaska

 

[BradV]

Its not a bad combo. But if you are going to make the trip 400 miles i would high recommend bringing a diesel mechanic with you. 600 hours on a diesel motor that is 16 years old is alot worse than if it had 6000. In all reality if you need to redo the motor youre looking at 1500 to 2000 a cylinder. So based on what the mechanic thinks itll take to fix it then id come up with an offer. Top end you might see 30 mph. Cruise low to mid 20s burning 11 gph or so.

 

[AkJohn]

Brad, Thanks for the reply, I apreciate the advice on the motor...........

I was not really looking for a diesel as my use will be occasional at best for the next few years anyway.
I am just learning about Parker boats...........they seem very well built and suitable for Alaskan waters, especially the pilot house models.

I am a little suprised that the diesel isnt more economical...?
Would changing to a duo-prop outdrive make much diffrence?

Thanks, John

 

[DaleH]

Comparable equipped boats realize 15% better efficiency with the duo-prop. Bigger HP with large wheel would be good, though usually limited on I/O applications.

 

[Brent]

"600 hours on a diesel motor that is 16 years old is alot worse than if it had 6000"

Can someone explain this to me?

 

[DaleH]

"600 hours on a diesel motor that is 16 years old is alot worse than if it had 6000"

Can someone explain this to me?

Easy ... for diesels, lack of use would signify potential HUGE problems with the fuel tank, fuel rails and injections, block, etc. ... meaning it was never brought up to correct operating temps enough given the years of life SITTING. Low compression diesels should go 10K hours before rebuild.

I too would buy an older diesel with 6K hours before one same age with only 600 hours ...

 

[Brent]

thanks

 

[Megabyte]

Any other things about the hull that I should know about or be looking for?

Can't comment on the Volvo diesel, though they do have a good reputation in this area.
Taking a diesel mechanic with you sounds like an excellent idea.

As for the hull... that one is identical to the ones that Dale and I own.
I only see one lifting strake in that photo, so that would indicate that it is a modified vee hull with the 14 degree deadrise.
The MV's being produced today are 16 degree hulls, and the DV's are 21 degree hulls.

If you look around the site, you will see that we love photos.
You'll see a lot of them here so you can get an idea of the various options and setups. We even have a few diesels represented, though they are rare.

This is my 1996 2520 MVSC to give you an idea of the layout.
Mine has the optional open back which I doubt the one you are looking at has. It is a fairly rare (no cost) option.

Good luck and welcome to the forum!

 

[AkJohn]

Thanks for the advice, due to its location it may be difficult to arrange for a mechanic..? to inspect.....will have to investigate that possibility more.

Its seems obvious to me that the seller has little interest in this boat, I guess thats ok, cuzz, I sure like it.
But lots of uncertainties from a cavalier seller............?
I did get some more pics, What would you guys offer knowing what you know about Parkers?

 

[AkJohn]

megabyte, thanks for the hull info, I understand the deadrise and I think the 14 would be preferred for my use and I would think it would get on step a little quicker than the 21 degree and not as tender when on anchor?
Most of use will be in Prince william Sound (PWS), Lower Cook Inlet or maybe SE Alaska, so not open water, but still big bodies of H2o and it can "dick-up" and get nasty.

Open back? are you referring to the lack of a permanent bulkhead?

John

Any other things about the hull that I should know about or be looking for?

Can't comment on the Volvo diesel, though they do have a good reputation in this area.
Taking a diesel mechanic with you sounds like an excellent idea.

As for the hull... that one is identical to the ones that Dale and I own.
I only see one lifting strake in that photo, so that would indicate that it is a modified vee hull with the 14 degree deadrise.
The MV's being produced today are 16 degree hulls, and the DV's are 21 degree hulls.

If you look around the site, you will see that we love photos.
You'll see a lot of them here so you can get an idea of the various options and setups. We even have a few diesels represented, though they are rare.

This is my 1996 2520 MVSC to give you an idea of the layout.
Mine has the optional open back which I doubt the one you are looking at has. It is a fairly rare (no cost) option.

Good luck and welcome to the forum!

 

[Brent]

When was the last time it was running?

 

[Megabyte]

Woah! I stand corrected.
That one does have the optional drop curtains, though they are a little different from mine.

Looks like a project to me. :wink:

Trust me, when I bought my boat, she was almost as neglected as that boat, but the good news is that they clean up well.
Motor looks clean, but the ad does make it sound like she has a fuel issue, which is understandable if she has sat for awhile.

Price will depend on how much work you will have to do to her to make her serviceable.
At a minimum, I would think that the entire fuel system from tank to injectors would need to be cleaned and the filters changed.
That diesel would be a valuable hunk of iron if were running smoothly.
With issues, less valuable but it still could be a good investment. Only a diesel mechanic could tell you for sure.

Edit:

Open back? are you referring to the lack of a permanent bulkhead?

Yes. If you look at the photo above, you will see my boat on the left next to a 2520XL on the right with the bulkhead.

 

[AkJohn]

Very nice looking boat Kevin,
A permanent bulkhead would be my preference, according to the seller he/they paid 25k last spring and brought it up from the lower 48. Not sure where? I didnt ask.........
They used is some and it did run ok, said cruise speed is about 18 knots, which sounds right.

The fuel issue is a recent development, the reason for selling is the boat is too big and too much of a pain at the boat ramp......? Valdez can get busy........especially on the big weekends...................

So as the ad says "up for any offer", I think 17 would be a reasonable price........for this boat, given some unknowns.............may start out less. I just dont want to regret a purchase after the fact.

For the most part I think I can assess the general condition of the boat. The motor and the outdrive is a concern, I can anticipate and justify 3-4 K making necessary repairs, most of which I can do or figure out myself.
If the motor requires a thorough rebuild then I wonder about a repower, Bracket and OB, now I am in the 25-30 K zone and cant afford that............!

The other concern is the hull under the floor, which to my understanding is not easily (perhaps impossible) to inspect............at least from what I have read. I have read Parkers current info on why they build them that way, and cant say I disagree, especially if I was the original owner...............However, as a second, third, or who knows how many prior owners..........it makes me wonder?

What about you guys that have bought second hand boats, did you wonder this same thing? Or am I fretting over nothing?

John

Woah! I stand corrected.
That one does have the optional drop curtains, though they are a little different from mine.

Looks like a project to me. :wink:

Trust me, when I bought my boat, she was almost as neglected as that boat, but the good news is that they clean up well.
Motor looks clean, but the ad does make it sound like she has a fuel issue, which is understandable if she has sat for awhile.

Price will depend on how much work you will have to do to her to make her serviceable.
At a minimum, I would think that the entire fuel system from tank to injectors would need to be cleaned and the filters changed.
That diesel would be a valuable hunk of iron if were running smoothly.
With issues, less valuable but it still could be a good investment. Only a diesel mechanic could tell you for sure.

 

[TunaJoe]

Just curious, what is the cost to rebuild that diesel, worst case scenario?

 

[BradV]

2 grand a cylinder done right. so 6 cylinder 12 grand. So thats my biggest concern at this point. Id offer almost 7 or 8 in anticipation that the motor is junk. Unless of course you can have a mechanic in the area look at it. either that or find a mechanic local to the seller and have him give you a quote to fix it. Then figure out what you were going to offer minus the cost to fix it. The only other issue with the parker boats is the wood used in the boat. It works well as long as people dont drill a bunch of holes in it without sealing it up correctly. So it will be pretty obvious if something is soft wood though.

 

[Megabyte]

2 grand a cylinder done right.

Lordy... :shock:
Still less than a new outboard and a lot of fiberglass work though.

 

[AkJohn]

Brad,
Drilling holes? please explain.......do you mean thru the floor deck.....? potenially letting water in below decks, where impossible to remove and inspect?
Or thru the transom?
I have been reading how the current Parkers are built, essentially the floor is sealed.........were the older boats built the same way?
John

2 grand a cylinder done right. so 6 cylinder 12 grand. So thats my biggest concern at this point. Id offer almost 7 or 8 in anticipation that the motor is junk. Unless of course you can have a mechanic in the area look at it. either that or find a mechanic local to the seller and have him give you a quote to fix it. Then figure out what you were going to offer minus the cost to fix it. The only other issue with the parker boats is the wood used in the boat. It works well as long as people dont drill a bunch of holes in it without sealing it up correctly. So it will be pretty obvious if something is soft wood though.

 

[Megabyte]

Brad is referring to people who bore holes to mount stuff without any consideration to protecting the wood core underneath.
Don't get me wrong... wood is good, and all the major players in the industry use it. But it does have to be protected.

Here is is link to one of my projects where you can see how I protected the core in my washboards.
There are LOTS of other examples of this in the "Projects" section.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8956

 

[AkJohn]

Kevin, Very nice detail on installing the rod holder, if its worth doing, do it right. So far I have only looked at photos of this boat and I do see several round access? covers in the cockpit floor deck. I dont know if they are original or not?
Another item of concern is a bow rail, as there is none on this boat and just dont see myself getting on the front deck without something in bad weather............so how hard is it to access that area from underneath to thru-bolt a rail?
I presume thru-bolts would be the proper method of mounting?
John

Brad is referring to people who bore holes to mount stuff without any consideration to protecting the wood core underneath.
Don't get me wrong... wood is good, and all the major players in the industry use it. But it does have to be protected.

Here is is link to one of my projects where you can see how I protected the core in my washboards.
There are LOTS of other examples of this in the "Projects" section.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8956

 

[Megabyte]

So far I have only looked at photos of this boat and I do see several round access? covers in the cockpit floor deck. I dont know if they are original or not?

Yep. Those deck plates are original.
They allow you access to the fuel tank(s) below deck.
Look in the Projects section under my screen name for a posting I made on re-sealing those deck plates.
It's not a difficult thing to do.

Another item of concern is a bow rail, as there is none on this boat and just dont see myself getting on the front deck without something in bad weather............so how hard is it to access that area from underneath to thru-bolt a rail?
I presume thru-bolts would be the proper method of mounting?

Yes, through-bolting is the way to go.
The good news is that that area is accessible from underneath in the cabin and in the v-berth.
It's tight, but it can be done much easier than in many other brands. 8)