2820 Windless Won’t Pick Up Chain

[johnkn]

Greetings, the factory windless on my 2017 2820 now won’t pick up chain. When the anchor is deployed, it will pull the rope, but it slips on the rope when it gets to the chain, it just won’t get over that transition. It seems that the rope right before the chain needs to be wrapped with something to build it up slightly to smooth the transition. Is there a tension adjustment on the “finger” that rides above the rope? Thanks

 

[warthog5]

I don't know what to tell you.....There is not enough information.

Who did the splice? What brand / model windless? What chain? [Be specific]

 

[Antidote]

Re-splice the rope to chain. If you haven't done it before there are lots of resources on the web. The hard part is getting it started correctly.

 

[johnkn]

The factory installed a Lewmar Pro-fish. The line is 8-plait and I'm sure it was a pre-manufactured rope/chain package. I would have to go down and measure the rope and chain size. I don't use it often and all worked well in year one. Last year to began to have problems at the transition to the chain and I would have to go back and forth a few times to get it to pull it up. Now it refuses to transition to the chain. It pulls the 8-plait ok. I also noticed that the 8-plait would sometimes move to the side under the 'finger' (control arm?) and wants to get stuck. I see there is a replacement control arm kit including a torsion spring available, wondering if the original spring is weak and not putting enough pressure on the line to feed it up. I’m going to lube around the arm, perhaps it’s binding and not allowing the full spring pressure to tension the line.


Also, my Delta anchor on the factory pulpit roller will not self deploy, the geometry is such that there’s not enough weight forward to allow it to drop. I see that Lewmar makes several setups with 2 rollers designed for the Delta anchor, and also one that pivots. Anyone have experience with them? It would sure be nice to not have to keep going to the bow playing with the anchor. I’m fine with one trip forward as I installed a safety cable on the anchor. I’d like to replace the original roller assembly with one that will self deploy / and or pivot and in a perfect world, have the same mounting bolt pattern. Not asking much. LOL. thanks


Edit. Should the hard rubber roller on the factory pulpit roller be free to spin? Mine appears to be clamped tight, wondering if replacing with a Delrin roller and insuring it spins freely will help with deployment.

 

[grouperjim]

The behavior can be caused by any number of things or combination of things. I have owned 2 Parkers with Lewmar 700s running with 8 plait, 30 ft of the correct chain attached to a Lewmar 22 Delta. I give the following advice assuming all other things associated with the windlass are correct. Since the boat is new, I assume the chain is correct and gypsy teeth are in good shape.

The transition point between the gypsy, the anchor line and the splice is vulnerable to slippage simply because the splice provides less friction with the teeth of the gypsy. How do you get more friction?

You are correct that the spring loaded control arm does provide some friction and also alignment of the anchor line with the teeth of the gypsy. Pushing down on the control arm as the line splice engages the gypsy will work. Helps if you have a remote.

Another thing you can do that will increase friction to a lesser degree is prior to line splice engagement with the gypsy, reach down into the anchor locker and pull down the pile of anchor line to increase the distance the anchor line falls when it goes into the anchor locker.

If all else fails, while retrieving anchor line, as the splice approaches gypsy transition carefully reach forward on the pulpit and grab the chain and give it a pull to help relieve some of the tension/load. While this doesn't increase friction it will get the splice past the transition.

Other things to consider. As the anchor line and splice ages from use it begins to fray a bit which IMO gives it a little extra grip. Sometimes there seems to be a sweet spot on the splice where it works perfectly for a while. Also, you can bump the windlass IN switch as the splice approaches the transition and the momentum of the heavy chain/anchor will allow the splice to coast past the transition.

FWIW I have not had any luck putting anything on the splice to make it more reliable.

 

[grouperjim]

Pulpit roller should spin freely. Would definitely help your issue.

 

[johnkn]

Thanks, I’ve tried bumping the controls, it worked last year, not helping now.

 

[johnkn]

And picking up a new Delrin roller tomorrow.

Just got back from the boat. I dropped the anchor in the slip and when the line was dry the windlass would pull it up and make the transition to the chain OK. Appears that when that area is wet it lets it slip just enough that it stops at the chain. I’ll lube the control arm tomorrow, it seems a little more pressure on the line would help. I’d really like to have an anchor roller assembly designed for a Delta style that would reliably let the anchor instantly drop. If there’s an emergency and I need to drop the anchor I don’t want to continue to fight that thing.....thank you...

 

[knotflying]

I have 8 plait on my parker (new) and on my tug (older) I had a similar problem with my tug. The line was about 8 years old so I reversed the rode using the bitter end at the chain. The biggest challenge was weaving 8 plait line! It is not for the faint of heart. I also coat the splice with rope dip. Rope dip link . Perhaps try cleaning the rode/chain splice well, let it dry and then coat several times and let it dry. I would do that before reversing the line.