Adding Port Wiper Motor

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UnWired

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Well, after a few trips out in nasty weather, I found I need a wiper motor on the port side. I tried RainX and it works for a couple of trips, but it's hard to stop the boat and wipe off the windshield when you are out in the slop.

It's time to add a windshield wiper to the port side.

I believe I need an AFI - 80° wiper motor, 12 volt, but I don't know the shaft size. It's available in 1". 2", 2.5" and all the way up to 3.5".

Has anyone done this to their boat? I'll have to measure carefully to ensure I mount it in the correct location as the STBD.

Also, the rocker switch for the Port side is disabled, meaning if you push it, it returns to zero and will not stay on... No "Click". Do I need to purchase a new switch, or is there something inside that needs to be modified in the switch to make it work? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

This looks like the wiper I need.
233374.jpg
 
i will not pretend to know anything about electrical work, but i have to do the same project as you and i was thinking that i would just try to hook it into the same switch as the stbd wiper. my reasoning was, i cant really think of any situation in which i would need the two wipers operating independently, if ones on, the other one will probably need to be on too. as far as the motor, cant help you, but ill be very interested to see how this works out for you! :D
 
I always wondered why there was a switch for each wiper too, I could use the left wiper switch for something else, it is funny how they configure the switches at the factory, some are used all the time and some almost never, so why some are where they are is strange, BUT back to you problem, I have no clue, but if I can connect both wipers to the same switch, I would, probably has something to do with how much volt each motor needs to work properly, we may find if we wire both wipers to the same switch, yoou will pop the fuse ? Not sure tho, but I am sure someone will !
 
I'll be watching this thread closely. I would love to add a port wiper. The switch is on the dash, labeled and wired up including the breaker in the back. I never did trace the wires to see whwre they go. I'm thinking they are probably tucked into the wire chase above the windows.
 
They are on separate switches for a couple reasons. First the current they use is more than likely too much for one switch. Also with them on separate switches you can stop them in whatever position you desire and because they are separate systems you will not run into synchronizing issues. I use them independently all the time. Allot of the times the wind is blowing across the boat and one window or the other gets wet and I just turn that wiper on and don’t run the other dry. The big down side to these is accidentally turn one on with the window open and poof there goes $200.00 or $400.00 if they are on the same switch. I would look around for a brand that has overload protection and would not use the one pictured above unless there is no other option. I burned one up the first year on the Port side and have not really looked into replacing it but will look for a better one with overload protection. As far as adding a new one I’m sure the folks at Parker can tell you what size to get and you could even measure the Starboard one. For the cost of these things they are junk in my opinion and look like something off an old army jeep. I actually heard someone make mention that they are the same thing and you may be able to find a Jeep one for less money. Good luck and post progress.

And if you really have some money burning a hole in your pocket you could get this-

http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/60916-dou ... m-afi.html

Could also save space on your panel... :wink:
 
Just added a wiper AFI 110' & 2-1'2 shaft to 25 parker. parker may have run the extra wire in the overhead or conduit that runs along the cabin top. As it was in my boat 2000 model.
 
Just another message. My port wiper switch was prewired in the conduit. If you have that also running across the overhead just drill into where you want the wire to come out but be carefull , you don't nick the wire with the drill bit . With a pair of needle nose pliers put the end out. 1 orange wire and 1 orange w/black strip. I purchased the cheaper AFI wiper, molded gray cover one. Next step down from one pictured at the begining of this thread.
 
Boat 25
I have the same boat, model year 1999 so it's probably very similar to yours.
This is good information. I figured those wires were run through that chase above the window, but boy, that must have been tough drilling a hole in that thing without nicking any wires. I'll have to check to see if I can tell how many wires are in that area of the chase. Maybe there aren't many which would allow some "room" .
It also looks like it will be difficult to drill a hole in the glass above the window. The overhang of the pilot house hangs over the window making it difficult to get a drill up in there and drill a straight hole.
 
Boat25,

Thanks for letting me know that it's a 2.5" shaft. That is what I will order tonight.

I thought this entire topic was thread-jacked, because it went a complete different direction at first. You answered my question and thanks... I really appreciate it. Did you add the 110 degree wiper for a reason? Parker informed me I need an 80 degree motor and told me it's an AFI, 80 degree, but they did not specify a model or a shaft length.

Also, did you have a pre-wired port wiper switch ? My switch only toggles, will not lock to the fast or slow position. There must be something to modify on the switch in the back.
 
My boat was prewired with port rocker switch. Single speed with park. Two wires orange & orange w/blk stripe. Didn't know the wires were in the conduit & I drilled small hole at first. And then a step bit for a 1/2 hole. I did scrape one wire , not to bad . 110' wiper looked like it would give me a good sweep of window. You can change the angle of sweep in some of the AFI wiper and what side you want it to park on.
 
I have a little different problem . I need a wiper blade 11 1/2 inch. I am hoping that I can buy the rubber and not have to purchase the arm it fits into as one would do on an automobile since this thing is stainless and would cost a pretty penny. ACn I get it from an auto parts house or do I need to go to Parker dealer?
Speaking of drilling into the chase. I haven't done it but on my 2520 it apears that you loosen the hardware and drop the entire overhead of the pilot house to expose all the wiring. IF that is the case you just mark the place and drill when the overhead is down with no danger of hitting a conduit etc.

skipperhub
 
P.S.
Definately utilizxe both switches and the rocker switch refered to at the top of the subject line that does not stay in place needs to be replaced.
You don't want to mess around with thwireng. YOU get a hot spot and yhou got a problem that will grow
skipperhub
 
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