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Outta Here

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I wonder how many of us tend to take for granted Parker advantages?

It's easy to assume other boats are built to the same level of "seaworthy". Items we are used to like a factory built wiring harness using pre-tinned wiring, bronze thru-hull fittings with sea cocks, a solid, no flex deck, strongest hull made, hand-built, 3 piece construction, and above deck livewells and fish boxes.

Next time you're looking at a 2 piece hull, run your fingers around the deck cap to live well seam. Chances are, you'll feel a 1/4" to 3/4" gap. Modern thinking is overflow water will drain to bilge and be pumped out.

Read this...http://outdoorsbest.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=612748

'cept for the operator's attention, calm sea, and luck, this boats' on the bottom.

disclaimer, this is in no way a slam on any particular boat manufacturer, as this same design featiure is used on much more expensive boats.

link won't work, under Florida Sportsman, boating, "livewell almost sunk my boat"
 
Those livewell stories seem to crop up all too often these days. :shock:
I'm glad that Parker only uses above deck livewells. One less thing to go wrong. :wink:
 
Ummm....bronze thru-hull fittings....nope, not on my 2002 year model.

Those plastic jobbers are the last of the OEM parts I'm going to replace. I've been eye-balling Kevin's thread on installing the SS fittings, and sometime this summer, I'll make the change.

I love my boat in nearly all aspects. Larger tabs, flush fuel/water vents, fuel cut-off valves, and SS or bronze thru-hull fittings are about the only things that need changing. Kind of minor when you look at the overall layout, construction, and quality.

I've fixed everything except the thru-hulls so far.

Dave
 
:oops: I mis-spoke, or in this case, mis-typed. Instead of thru-hull, I was thinking about the underwater bronze hi-speed water p/u's. Somehow plastic, marlon, vinyl or whatever underwater thru-hulls just doesn't seem right.

I like the stainless thru-hulls, certainly an up-scale upgrade.
 
FishFactory":2r8dxgfm said:
Somehow plastic, marlon, vinyl or whatever underwater thru-hulls just doesn't seem right.

I like the stainless thru-hulls, certainly an up-scale upgrade.

When I replaced my OEM plastic through-hull fittings, I did so with chrome over bronze because the fittings used the same size hole as the OEM plastics.
The stainless steel fittings that I found used a smaller hole (for the same size discharge hose) because the material was thinner than the OEM plastic or the bronze.

It's something to consider if you are replacing something that occupies a certain size hole. :wink:
 
Megabyte":1td5sprx said:
When I replaced my OEM plastic through-hull fittings, I did so with chrome over bronze because the fittings used the same size hole as the OEM plastics. The stainless steel fittings that I found used a smaller hole (for the same size discharge hose) because the material was thinner than the OEM plastic or the bronze.
Ahhhhh, nothing to worry about 'if' used for the bilge exits. I used the SS versions and the difference in hole size didn't bother me a bit, I just made sure it was gooped up with 5200. And it ever 'were' a problem ... sorry folks ... that means I wave water to my washboards and I have another far more serious problem to attend to ...

That said, if it truly bothered someone, a simple bushing could be easily made to make up the difference. I prefer having the SS over a chrome fitting that will pit in time.
 
DaleH":10y4lswg said:
I prefer having the SS over a chrome fitting that will pit in time.

True that...
The chrome will not last forever like SS will. It will wear off eventually exposing the bronze underneath.
 
FishFactory":2oz7o2np said:
Next time you're looking at a 2 piece hull, run your fingers around the deck cap to live well seam. Chances are, you'll feel a 1/4" to 3/4" gap. Modern thinking is overflow water will drain to bilge and be pumped out.

under Florida Sportsman, boating, "livewell almost sunk my boat"


Looks like I was wrong...re-visited the thread and looks like several others have posted various brands of boats, the gap is now up to one and a half inches. Wonder how they keep bait in livewells?
 
Just finished reading about a fisherman out in his new mid-tier boat. Anchor was hung on bottom, buddy leans over to see if he can see problem. Boat rises over large wave, electric winch pops off boat, strikes buddy in chest leaving 2 cracked ribs as winch and anchor locker door leaves and heads for watery grave.

Winch was secured to anchor door which was secured to boat with 2 small hinges.

Boat re-wired, T-Top hot, livewell hot, 6 (?) sets batteries in 2 years.

I think I'll go wax my Parker.
 
FishFactory":2i0ttz7a said:
Boat rises over large wave, electric winch pops off boat, strikes buddy in chest leaving 2 cracked ribs as winch and anchor locker door leaves and heads for watery grave.

Reading that made my chest hurt. :shock:
 
I didn't replace the plastic thru hulls with chrome over bronze. I used the bronze with no finish on them. I guess I come from the old school, I don't find the plain bronze unattractive.
 
There is definitely a lot about a Parker to love. My favorite is of course the DV 23 hull with the Armstrong bracket/swim platform/single engine. That configuration essentially makes this a 25 foot boat for under 50K that gets 3 mpg with a range of over 400miles. This boat is definitely the best value on the market. I fish mostly 100 plus miles out and my friends and I have never felt like we didn't have enough boat under us.

Most people don't realize it, but one of the most unique features and benefits of the DV 23 hull is the flat pad at the rear section of the keel. That pad actually provides excellent lift at the stern and greater efficiency/speed through the water. Also, it is absolutely the best place to put your transducer. I've done 5 boats now, and while cruising at 35 mph you are able see individual grouper on the bottom in 100 plus deep water chasing bait pods. You can do it with any type of transducer puck or transom type. Just cut it into the the starboard forward corner one inch from the edge of the small piece of plywood that is glassed in back there. After cutting through the plywood drimmel/rotozip down 1/4 inch into the clean glass making a perfectly fitting and smooth tray for the transducer. Seal off the air pocket that is under the plywood with 5200. Let set. Wipe the clean glass with some Styrene and a non-lint cloth. Then fill the tray 1/3 of the way up with gelcoat or resin mixed real light with hardner. Lightly sand the transducer with some 800 wet or dry. Spill some gelcoat onto the face of the transducer and then wiggle it gently into the tray (already 1/3 full). Set a 5 lb dive weight on top of the transducer, hang a drop light in the bilge, close the lid and let it bake for 24 hrs. It will be the best sonar presentation at any speed that you have ever seen. ONLY on a Parker. Its magic.
 
That's some great info. I often wondered what that flat spot was for.
the 23DV hull stays in the mold for a week.


BTW, I concur...23DV hull rules! :D
 
Holy Cow Grouper Jim...

I don't know my boat very well.. yet. But I might be calling on you for help explaining that! Wow!! Very cool...

WIlliam.
 
grouperjim said:
There is definitely a lot about a Parker to love. My favorite is of course the DV 23 hull with the Armstrong bracket/swim platform/single engine. That configuration essentially makes this a 25 foot boat for under 50K that gets 3 mpg with a range of over 400miles. This boat is definitely the best value on the market. I fish mostly 100 plus miles out and my friends and I have never felt like we didn't have enough boat under us.

I've done 5 boats now, and while cruising at 35 mph you are able see individual grouper on the bottom in 100 plus deep water chasing bait pods. tquote]

"...and i have never felt like we didn't have enough boat under us."

Believe it or not, I got the same feeling in an 18 (that's why I bought the 23SE and 23DV). Parker defines seaworthyness.

Do you have a favorite depthfinder?

Could you post some pics of grouper chasing bait sometime?

We need some SE fishermen...there is a fishery outside of stripers! :D
 
Some pics of the install on my 2320. Would be the same of course on your boat Wicho. You do need to move the bilge pump and float switch to port a little bit which is easy.

I don't have any pics of my Garmin 3010 display showing the grouper chasing a bait pod, but I will definitely take one next time I go out. Now let me see if I can figure out how to post a pic on this site.
 

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This is my install...

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I have been crawling through my Parker 2530 for the past two weeks and I like the fact that every surface is gelcoated. Every hatch and surface you look under is white, gelcoated. No raw fiberglass exposed anywhere. I am very happy with my purchase so far and have only seatrialed the boat for a few hours then she went back on the trailer. Can't wait to get her in the water. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
 
Here's another one involving a popular boat whos' name comes up often when someone complains about price of Parkers.

Seems the builder goes to the trouble and expense of building a three piece hull, but skimps of fininshing touches. The rear cleat is accessed thru the deck pipe fitting, as, IMO it should be. Problem is, instead of mounting the cleat on a rib, below deck pipe fitting, out of the way, it is mounted a foot or so inside of gunnel, on the side of a battery box. ? Huh ?

Lady trys to get out of boat, mis-steps, falls back and rips blood vessels in ankle. Blood, 911, emergency etc. Doctor says he has seen it before.

Sometimes we Parker owners get MORE than what we pay for. :D
 
Parker mounts the cleat under the hawse pipe... the way it should be.

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