Beckson Internal Rain Shields NOT an Easy Install

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TheOtherLine

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On the premise that I could improve circulation in the berth area and after having read several positive posts about the rain shields, I purchased a set of double louvered, internal rain shields model irs-512s, 5 x 12. for my 2006 2520., which is what I read I should buy.

The instructions suggest that you simply remove the rubber gasket halfway, remove the screen, slide the rain shield into position as far as possible, stretch the gasket back onto the frame, then repeat on the other side.

No such luck. The gasket is glued in and while it comes off easy enough, once removed, there is no just putting back onto the frame.

Second, the rain shield is both, too tall and too wide to fit into the opening, so, you have to cut it or sand it down. I chose to cut it. Cleaner, straighter, faster than sanding. We're talking about 1/4" all the way around on ALL sides.

Finally, since the shield can't fit where the screen WAS, you have to place it OVER the lip where the screen was, which leaves a gap.

The instructions DO say that you may have to silicone around the edges. Count on it.

Finally, after you place the shield in the frame, you have to add a gasket between it and the glass window otherwise it looks like s%#t. Can't use the old one cuz it's too thick.

What a PITA.

If you are thinking about installing these, on a 2006 2520, you may want to consider the external shields.

I know there are guys on here who have installed them effortlessly on their 2520 or other model, but I'm telling you,...in that year, that model, it's not a 10 minute install.

After having screwed around with this one window for about 40 minutes, I went to the website to see if I am missing something. I noticed they have another size in the single louver model. Now I'm wondering if the single louver (4x10) might have been the right size. 4 x10 is about the size of the stock screen.

I'm going to go check.....
 
I have the older style windows and mine went right in.

Seems others have had troubles with the newer style windows.
 
When I installed mine, I was all prepared (with camera in hand) to document the process for the projects section.
What I found was that the install was so simple that I had nothing to document.

My boat is a 1996 model, so as others have suggested, some changes in the port holes must have occurred at some point.
 
jpg1969":gl01df4s said:
took 3 minutes for my '02 2520...

:roll: You guys are startin' to piss me off! :mrgreen:

Took a while to get the first vent cut, and sanded down so that it fits the imprint where the factory screen goes.

Used it as a template for the stbd side and that just took 10 minutes.

I think I am going to silicone the front edges (part that faces out) and then after that's dry, I'm going to use black silicone to cover up and seal up the inside edges. Should look fine.

Of course, I wont have the tight seal that the factory gasket provided, but if I have both the front side and back side sealed with silicone, I shouldn't have any leaks.

Maybe I should try and find a sheet of 3/8' thick rubber some where and cut out my own gasket.

Think I need it?
 
TheOtherLine":32p7mnm7 said:
I noticed they have another size in the single louver model. Now I'm wondering if the single louver (4x10) might have been the right size. 4 x10 is about the size of the stock screen.

I'm going to go check.....

Just checked. Wrong size. Needed to be 4.5 x 11.5
 
TheOtherLine":3mn60nwy said:
Think I need it?

I don't think so.
It sounds like you have a handle on it.

To be honest... since installing mine, I think I only closed the hatches once.
And that was during a tropical storm. :)
 
Thanks Kev.

Because there is not rubber seal around the window edge, the hatch doesn't close securely. While water may not get in, I can imagine the window banging up against the latches while running. Maybe not. Again. Type A.
 
I also have a Parker 2520XL 2004 Model and I could not get the darn thing to fit and returned them to Defender. I did not try to go to the trouble that TheOtherLine went through. After I sent them backl to the Defender the window leaked and I had to contact cement the gasket in place and I am still not sure that the leak is fixed. Maybe I will try it again like TheOtherLine.
 
I think you are going to find that the factory gasket is not going to fit as well as it did when it was installed at the factory.

I finally sealed up my vents with black life seal caulk and then used the following product to give it that "finished" look.

Durable sponge rubber compound with excellent resistance to water absorption, sunlight and extreme temperatures. Seals leaks, prevents rattling and replaces old seals on hatch frames, door frames and live wells. Great for use anywhere a watertight seal is needed. Self-adhesive foam is easy to cut and shape. 3/8"H x 5/8"W x 10'L. Black.

West Marine $20.
 

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I have a 2004 2520XL and could not get the external shields to fit either. I
eventually gave them to a friend with a Grady. After calling around I found that Parker has changed the portholes from time to time and sizes will vary from year to year.
Ventilation is important for pilothouse boats down here in South Florida - particularly during the summer months. Leaving a window open a bit does help but is not enough in the summer as the intense heat & sun creates a greenhouse effect on the inside of the pilothouse. Leaving the windows open is also a security risk - as my boat is in in a marina.
Ultimately I opted for shore power, air conditioning and covering the windows with snap-on shades. It all made a big difference.
 
drvan":3o2xf4kq said:
Leaving the windows open is also a security risk - as my boat is in in a marina. Ultimately I opted for shore power, air conditioning and covering the windows with snap-on shades. It all made a big difference.

I hear that. Air would be awesome. Especially if you do a lot of intracoastal cruising where you have a lot of min wake zones.

I came very close to adding air when I bought the boat but in my case I run offshore more than I cruise the intracoastal and the open widows provide enough air.

In S. Florida, you're lucky they haven't stolen your air unit yet :wink:
 
Pictures of completed louver install, interior.

You can see the black Life Caulk in the lower right hand corner of the second picture. I suppose I could have tucked the rubber gasket in a little tighter. The rubber gasket is a must because A) unless your windows take the stock louvers, you are going to have to do some cutting and it won't be perfect. B) Need the gasket to take up space otherwise the hatch won't fully seat and latch.

 

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I did the same thing in my 2004 25XL this summer. What a crap job to do. I did not remove the gasket in the window but I had to take off about 1/4" all around to get them in. They are tight and do not leak that I can tell. It appears to have helped but I wish Parker would come up with a simple efficient fix for the Pilot house window frame pitting problem.

John
 
Other line, your windows appear to be the ones I have as well, How far do the Louver's extend from the window into the walk way, can you take a pix of the windows/vents from the exterior of the boat? Before I invest in what does not appear to be a quick simple fix want to know if I will be breaking them off every time I go to the bow.
 
mrfunandson":22e3pzze said:
Other line, your windows appear to be the ones I have as well, How far do the Louver's extend from the window into the walk way, can you take a pix of the windows/vents from the exterior of the boat? Before I invest in what does not appear to be a quick simple fix want to know if I will be breaking them off every time I go to the bow.


Don't stick out much at all. Maybe a 1/2" . Remember, they are seated from the inside.
 

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