Cabin seating
- Thread starter BlackRoee
- Start date
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Pretty sure you have to take the door off as well as the door frame.
I'm sure you have already tried this, but does it fit through the door, turned on its side, top/upper section out first, then twisted to the door latch-side of the cockpit? If not, then how about with the base removed, that is, if it is removeable, with just the bolts removed? or is the 'caulking' something like 5200, holding them together?) If so, then cutting it is an option. Are you trying to save/salvage/reuse it? Would you want to re-fiberglass it back together to reuse it?
Ours are exactly the same as yours, and are caulked with something around the bolted flange. I don't know what caulking was used.... I've wanted to remove one of our seats/pedestals and install the 'galley' cabinet (without the frig) and have wondered if it is a PITA to remove; I can see by what you are going through, it is a PITA ... If it can't be separated from the base, then I think I would cut it up before taking the door and door frame apart; less damage to fix back, especially if the door frame is also glued with 5200.
couldnt you have seperated the base and do a tetris move to get it out?
I loved tetris. I wish. I don't think that would have worked. It really wasn't that bad pulling the whole door and frame off. The door stayed connected to the frame and they didn't use a ton of adhesive. Lots of screws, yes. But it's a very heavy door and provides a lot of support for that cabin wall, I noticed.. The next step is to remove the pedastles for the captain chairs without stripping the screws. They've been soaking for a couple of days in PB Blaster.
I am in the process of redoing the entire inside of the cabin of my 2820. About 6 months ago I was standing there scratching my head trying to figure out the exact same thing. The bases will not fit through even if you take them apart. To get them out, you have to take the door off. That's kind of a trick too. First remove the screws holding the 3 starboard trim pcs in place and remove the trim. Now you have to pull back the hull liner (carpet) around the door about 2" all the way around. This will expose the screw heads that hold the door in place. Remove those screws and your door will now come out. Your bases will now fit through the opening.
WW128049
Active member
See from your picture that almost everyone one of the stainless steel screws in the seat base and door frame is rusted. Same on mine. Parker must not have used high quality screws. Kind of upsetting.
In my garage, this looks pretty good, but I’m afraid it’s an inch or two too wide. Too bad; room to make tackle storage between the bases and better storage in the bases with the doors taken off (I’ll widen the openings too). This will be the passenger side of a 2520xl.. I get the boat back monday...
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dillydilly
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Smmahaffey
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concerning the rust on the screws, there was a discussion the other day on here that lead down the path of iron in the well water that was causing the rust stains. Sounded pretty legit after reading into it.
PKS1801
Well-known member
I remember sitting in that jump seat position, behind the driver, at a boat show a few years ago. Don't remember which size pilot house boat it was, but there wasn't 2 inches between the top of my head, and 3 acorn nuts holding something mounted on the top. The thought of hitting a wave still makes me cringe.
