Factory wiring

[96TL]

Hey guys. I was doing some work behind the dash this weekend and noticed Parker used non-marine crimp terminals on all the wires (without heat shrink). I understand water shouldn’t get in the sport cabin, but humidity is still an issue. Have any of you guys re-wired all the factory wires with heat shrink crimp connectors? If not, how have your factory wires held up over the years? All the wires I added for my electronics are done properly, but the more important factory wires are not. Just doesn’t seem right to me. Thanks. Dom

 

[Outlaw]

96TL , this will be the fourth year with my boat and even though I have yet to experience a single problem and everything still "looks" good, I will be upgrading all of the factory connections to match all of mine that I had added. Like I said....no problems, but should be worth the effort in the long run.
Keith

 

[Megabyte]

Same here. My 1996 'vintage' wiring has not had a single problem.

But... I do eventually want to re-wire the whole thing to add capacity and take advantage of the better switches, fuse panels, and other gear that has been developed over the past 10 years. :wink:

My only hold-up is contemplating the amout of 'down time' involved in a complete re-wire situation.

 

[DaleH]

"If" in good shape, I'd spray some BoeShield T-9 from a nozzle into each side of the butt connector (if you could) and would then seal with liquid electrical tape.

For the real ambitious, yes you could re-wire everthing.

But you could also easily perform a resistance check on each wiring/connector run and then just re-seal the holes in the wire you'd need to make for the check with liquid e-tape too.

 

[96TL]

Well, I don't plan on doing a complete re-wire, at least not for now. She's still brand new. I was thinking of buying the adhesive lined wire terminals and replacing the Parker terminals only, leaving the original wiring. Still going to be a bit of work though. I plan on replacing every terminal I could find. It's just tough ordering them not knowing how many I need.

Dom

 

[96TL]

I got another idea. What if I left the original parker terminals and just slid a piece of adhesive line heat shrink over it? Would this seal them up? It would be a lot easier, especially with all those push in connectors behind the switches.

 

[DaleH]

Yes or no ... depends on the size adH-S you need to slip over the terminal. If you needed > 1/4" size and it was only one wire of 16 AWG, the HS might not shrink down around the wire too well. But that you could seal with liquid e-tape.

If you do this as you state, I'd still try to force dielectric grease or Boeshield into the body of the terminal where crimped.

Best prices for adhesive-lined heat shrink are at places like Best Boat Wire, see link, DO NOT go to a std marine store ... you'll be raped :shock: !

http://bestboatwire.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=52

 

[96TL]

Okay, I’ll just re-crimp new terminals on all the factory wires. I want it right the first time so I don’t have to mess with the wiring ever again. When I get home and estimate how many crimps I need (plus an extra dozen or so), I’ll order everything from www.delcity.net .They have great prices. I’m going to use the terminals with the adhesive heat shrink already attached like these:

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/ ... 167&page=1

Dom

 

[DaleH]

I’ll order everything from www.delcity.net

Dom:

Wow, I bought my ratchet crimpers from them, but already had all of the other stuff ... their prices for those ad-lined connectors is insane (low) ! Good info

 

[Megabyte]

I was going to suggest ratchet crimpers rather than the Home Depot handyman specials... but I think Dale just did! :lol:

 

[96TL]

Do you guys think this would effect my warranty at all?

Dom

 

[96TL]

I’ll order everything from www.delcity.net

Dom:

Wow, I bought my ratchet crimpers from them, but already had all of the other stuff ... their prices for those ad-lined connectors is insane (low) ! Good info

Are these the crimpers you bought from them? If so, how are they? Are these okay for insulated crimps?

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/ ... 741&page=1

 

[DaleH]

Yes, those are the crimpers I bought.

Would think they'd be OK on the insultated crimps, just a different (meltable) thermoplastic is used, from what I believe ...

I highly doubt it would void your warranty.

 

[tara11]

When you say spray them alot, do you mean sray with something like Fluid Film, I am not into rewiring as my boat is brand new , but preventive is the key will Fluid Film do me any good if I spray the connections on the back of the helm ?? That is where all my additional wiring is for my electronics !


Another question, I have four or five non used switches on my panel, on the back all the wires are the same color, I think thick orange, how do I know where to put the wires if I want to add a light or something that will work off one of those rocker ( think that is what they are called) switches ?

 

[Capt. Ronnie]

Anything I have done with wiring, gets inline twisted soldered, and a high end heat shrink tube with glue.
One problem that I have had every season is my battery switch location port side inside my transom.
I've replaced 3 battery switches, and after replacing 1 set of main breakers, I found a different type to replace them with that are water tight and have not failed for 2 years now.
Parker also used some home depot crimp type eyelets at the battery terminals , as in the hot wire for the rear bildge,
I replaces them with heavy battery cable type lugs, first crimping then filling by soldering and again, a very high quality shrink tube with glue.

 

[96TL]

I just place my order at Del City. I hope I ordered everything I need. I hate getting this stuff online but the prices are so much better. Thanks for the help guys. I'll let you know how it goes.

Dom

 

[Outta Here]

When you say spray them alot, do you mean sray with something like Fluid Film, I am not into rewiring as my boat is brand new , but preventive is the key will Fluid Film do me any good if I spray the connections on the back of the helm ?? That is where all my additional wiring is for my electronics !


Another question, I have four or five non used switches on my panel, on the back all the wires are the same color, I think thick orange, how do I know where to put the wires if I want to add a light or something that will work off one of those rocker ( think that is what they are called) switches ?

Parker has and will send you a complete wiring diagram for your model. Sometimes it is in your "Parker Packet" you received when you picked up your boat.

Parker is one of the few boat builders that use a real, engineered, pre-manufactured wiring harness, as opposed to a $8.00/hr. guy at the plant with a spool of wire and some elect. tape!

 

[Anonymous]

Tara11 and other XL owners,
Just a heads up on the ground block on the aft starboard side. Last year I found my aft bilge pump wasn't working and tested with a light and everything tested out. Thought it was the pump, but it turned out to be corrosion starting on the block and wires. Had enough juice for the test light to work but not enough juice to operate the pump. Need to protect that block from corrosion and not the easiest spot to get at.

 

[96TL]

Is the T-9 a good grease to put into each connector before crimping? Will it drip out when I crimp it or is it thick? It looks like it comes in an aerosol can so I’m guessing it’s thin. Is there something thicker I can use? Permatex dielectric? I think I had read on THT that Vaseline worked pretty good.

Dom

 

[DaleH]

For new installs, I prefer the dielectric grease. My T9 suggestion was only if you were going to leave the terminals on there and was going to cover them with liquid e-tape.