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warthog5

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I gave up when I saw this part.

I do not have deep pockets so replacements are out of the question.
I would have suggested putting in opening window's. It's not an option down here. It's mandatory.

I installed my window's with 3M 101. They were bought from.
http://www.wynneinc.com/




 

Capt Brad

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Hi Danielb,

I work at a Parker dealership in sales but I do a lot of the minor repairs for my customers when needed. Your window project is not a difficult job at all. I have done several of them and I am nobodies mechanic. Not knowing what year your boat is I can tell you this Parker has switched window manufactures a couple of years ago because of the leaking so if at all possible ordering new ones would be better but if not thats okay. First step is to remove the inside frame I have always had to use two tools for that most of the screws can be removed with a drill but some of the lower ones will need to be pulled out with a short screwdriver attachment in a rachet. Now take a sharp razor knife to the outside edge where the gelcoat and window meet. Start with very shallow cuts and just slice out the silicone with each pass you will be able to go deeper each time after 3 or 4 passes all the way around have someone else pushes out on the window from inside while you use your knife to keep cutting where needed. Take your time and becareful the knife will be alittle difficult at first but you'll get it. Then just clean up all the edges on the window and the boat and use plenty of sealant when you put the window in push it around as much as you can so your sealant is covering all the surfaces. Now put the frame back on the inside to pull it tight. Last go back out front and wipe off the extra sealant do this now because if you try and cut it out later (after it dries) you run the risk of pulling sealant out from under the frame and then it might leak again. Thats about it take your time and good luck. Capt Brad 8)
 

Capt Brad

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Hey Danielb your right about the screws and that should actually make it a little easier you'll have better access. Good Luck Capt Brad
 

DaleH

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Another great tip when using any type of sealant is to NOT torque up on the screws during the install. Go tight enough so the item is positioned correctly, but do not go full tight, maybe 2/3rds of full tight at most.

Wait until the sealant has cured and go back and re-torque the fasteners ... that'll ensure that the sealant also acts like a gasket. FWIW, it is the heating & cooling cycle that causes most sealants to shrink over time, so leaving it thicker to begin with helps reduce this as a factor.
 

Megabyte

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Daniel, I have the 'older-style' stbd opening window in my 1996 model (port side is fixed).



Someday hope to replace both of them with a pair of the 'new-style' opening windows, but that isn't in the budget right now.

I have had my stbd window leak under extreme weather conditions, so I'm thinking that I'll use Capt Brads method and re-seal that sucker this coming season.

Thanks for the tip Brad! Look for a project report with photos sometime this summer. :wink:
 

DaleH

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danielb":20zevfrh said:
I am even considering painting the window frames white to decrease the thermal expansion from the black paint already on them.
You'd be best served by powder coating them. Paint on aluminum ... yuuuck!

You can insultate the SS fastener from the aluminum frame by heat shrink tubing over the body of the bolt, using Tuf-Gel on the threads, and nylon washers under the bolt head.
 

dougmacf

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Capt. Brad,

Do you happen to know the manufacturer of the current venting front windows for the 2520's?

I have an '89 2520 MV SC (?) I believe, without venting windshields. New glass is on my list. I know I may have to resize the openings, etc.

Thanks,
Doug MacFarland
Matshfield, MA
 

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