FLIR Camera - Project

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UnWired

UnWired

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Sep 12, 2007
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Location
Fortuna, California
We have been running out so much here in N. California lately, I have decided to purchase a FLIR thermal imaging camera on the boat.

Looking at the price of the units, I choke a little. I can afford to purchase a navigator II, but I have found a cheaper solution.

Being an electronic engineer, I decided to build my own unit. By purchasing a module, power cables and a pan / tilt head, I have saved myself $3500 so far in parts. I will be posting pictures of the project this week. Total investment will be approximately $3000 and it has the same resolution, same pan/tilt and digital information output for temperature etc as the units which sell for $9000. I will be putting stability control in the unit after the initial project is complete.
If anyone is interested in this, let me konw. I can put together a basic parts list at the end of the week. I am hoping to have this complete for our next tuna run, so I can run out at 3AM again and not have to worry about hitting logs and debris in the water. It's really a cheap investment if you think about it. $80 grand in boat, vs $3500 so I can see to avoid the crap in the water.
 
First, you start with a FLIR camera core, DC power cable and a video cable. You will need a 7" or larger LCD so you have resolution. A kit is sold by ATN, but it takes about 3-6 weeks to get. I believe that B K has them.

Items:
Camera Core - FLIR module
NTSC video Cable.
Power Cable - FLIR module will come with a cable.
NTSC video monitor (The flip down type inside of SUVs are aftermarket now and very good price) you can flip out of the way when not needed.
GoLight (either with joystick, or remote) I am using the GL-3021-F with hardwired joystick remote.

I got very lucky and purchased a full FLIR PathfindIR module, with all of the hardware complete, for about $1000 off of the list price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... SA:US:1123

Look around, you will find a good deal if you are wanting to complete the project.

The next thing, I will be cutting out the front 3/4" thick Acrylic in Dark plastic on our laser CNC machine. Since I have to set this up, I can duplicate it. A video of our CNC working is at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqeiFq1Ev-g

So, I just have to design the outside plastic measurements and closely measure the front of the GoLight and the FLIR module, then cut out the dimensions, another weather-proof gasket area and the opening for the FLIR and o-ring gasket for the face of it. Should only be a 4-5 hour project to set it up on our laser. This is the complete package I just purchased.

index.php
 
Ok,
I finished this project a couple of weeks ago and we have been on a couple of tuna trips since that time.

I shot this in about a minute from the FLIR Camera tonight. Just thought I would upload a quick sneak peek of the camera.

The first part shows the video display, just looking around. You can see the bow rail, and outside of my shop. Mostly a dumpster, roll up door and the front of the boat.

The second part shows the control, next to the throttle. The ZERO displays on the control head.
There is a preset button that will return the camera back to a preset location. When I push the button, the camera re-centers itself back to the bow to the memory location.

The Video looks the same, whether it's dark or light out. It is only picking up heat. Daylight, or darkness does not change the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fTu-FAkwlk
 
Verry cool, would love to add that someday.

Cruising out at 2am in pitch dark is a little nerve wracking.
 
Bryan,
That's where it's perfect.... We commonly go out when it is completely dark, either leaving at 5AM, or coming back after dark. There is a lot and there is drift wood, crab pot buoys, etc floating in the ocean here. The entire reason I put this on is because a few months ago, we were coming back from a tuna trip and the same area we passed that morning in the dark, there was a HUGE log and floating debris pile that would have smashed the Parker into small bits.

I wanted something to detect that stuff, and the FLIR camera was the way to go. I didn't completely follow the build with pictures, but when we built the camera, we saved approximately $4000 - $5000 depending on if you count the install.

The only thing similar on the market is the Helios, which is $7000. The advanced remote is not offered, or it would be an $8000 model I'm sure. The return to zero model is very handy.

There ya have it, higher definition than what was available a couple years ago on consumer cameras, total build cost $3000, fabrication time = 1 day. Installation time = 2 hours. Everyone who has seen it drools over the safety aspect alone, it's priceless.
 
Chris,

That's an awesome project, WTG. One of these days if you think about it, put up an actual on the water video. I might do this one of these days. Of course it would help if the cost comes down a little. It's easy to see especially where you boat, how important this would be.

Maybe I'll go buy a lotto ticket and get lucky.
 
Hi John,
They are expensive, but it's still $5000 less than purchasing a FLIR Navigator II or equiv.
The remote is really nice.
I will see if I can shoot some video next time I have the boat out. It is pulled out of the water and sitting in our shop right now for end of season upgrades, cleaning, new bronze thru-hulls, port wiper install... The FLIR camera was added one time, a day before a tuna trip out of Eureka. The thing is now basically priceless on the boat.

I need to actually get a video camera with an NTSC input so I can shoot some actual video footage leaving the bar, etc.
The only thing that will completely freak you out is when there are birds in the water in front of you. You see a big bright ball and instantly you think it's debris... so you turn the wheel to avoid them... just instinct. $3000 is cheap, compared to the price of stuffing a log through the hull. I have come close to debris in the dark since the install, but still a couple hundred feet away.
 
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