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Lucky John

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Jan 3, 2007
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Location
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Seems that about 2" of the engines lower unit(F150) sits in the water even when engine is tilted all the way up.I figured that this was inherited feature because the boat is transom heavy.I asked dealer about it and he said this was true.He said when I get the 20 hr oil change that they would paint that area of the lower unit with clear bottom paint.Do you guys think this is a good idea? Or should I tell him no and just make sure I give it a scrub every few days.I'm wondering if over time this will cause a problem?My other option I see is to paint the skeg and that portion of lower unit every spring.
Dealer also painted my trim tabs.After 2-3 days in the water,the paint has peeled off the stainless lenco's.
All this aggida and had to chnage my slip at the marina because 2120 did not fit well into old slip,but feel more comfortable now with major storm coming. :shock:
 
The motor does hang in the water on the 2120 and a lot of other outboards. Over five years we never had any real problem except marine growth if the boat sat unused. Never saw any indication of damage.


Stainless is hard to paint, particularly given the tough conditions the tabs experience, but we consistently painted ours and over time, the paint seemed to adhere better.
 
I've got the 2120 with the 150 2 stroke, and my engine tilts completely out of the water. But then, it's probably the lightest engine that was available for this hull at the time I bought it. A few extra pounds (4 stroke vs. 2 stoke) with leverage at the transom might be enough to change the angle our boats sit when stationary.

Also, this hull sits noticably lower in the water with a full tank of gas. But even with a full tank, I still tilt completely out. If you've got a full tank and the lower unit is in the water just a couple inches, at 3/4 tank or less you might find the hull comes up enough that the engine will clear the water.

Clear coating should keep the growth down if it becomes a problem and you get tired of cleaning it manually. My previous boat had a Mercrusier stern drive. With a good clear coat applied, I had low growth for an entire season in water. Also, if you use the boat regularly, that will help keep the growth down.

Yes, the tabs are always a problem. I've had seasons when the paint held up well and seasons where it came off in a few weeks. Good priming before paint helps, but painting metal so it will hold up underwater is tough.

John
 
Makes sense,4 stroke is a couple hundred pounds heavier I'd say.Plus I did make the guy stop on the way to my marina to top off the fuel.I'm sure I'll have a few more kinks to work out,especially if I ever get to go fishing with it..................This northeaster sucks.........If I had known this storm was coming I would have put off splash another week.
 
I also have the 2120 SC with the F150. Part of the lower unit will not clear the water as you have experienced. I use clear antifoulant on that portion as well as the engine bracket that also sits in the water. works fine.

Getting paint to stick on trim tabs is tough. On my prior boat I removed the tabs and had them powder coated. Lightly sanded and then applied antifoulant. That worked great.

On my Parker I am putting Interlux interprotect on the hull and will use it on the tabs as well. Been waiting for the weather to cooperate.

Ray
 
The dealer said they would apply the clear anitfoulant when I bring it back for the 20 hr service.I am going to look at the bracket tom,I didn't notice if that was underwater as well.Finally after 8 days I can use it in the am for her first trip.
 
The motor on my 2520 MVSC (225 OX66) doesn't quite clear the water in the up position either.
I just give it a scrub from time-to-time, and it hasn't been a problem.

Image-722CD1FF39CF11DB.jpg
 
I found the answer,just use up 1/2 a tank of fuel an now it sits a couple inches above the water. :shock: :D Case solved.I probably won't even ask the dealer to clear coat the lower unit or brackert now that I see how this baby operates.
Gave the boat a good test today in some nasty weather,blew 20-25 S/SW coming home from 16 miles from inlet.
 
John, even with a half tank of fuel the engine should not completely clear the water. Are you relying on the hydraulic tilt or using the "dog ears" motor rests? When you fully raise the engine you should then lower it on the rests and fully retract the rams. You lose about 2 inches of height but this keeps marine growth off of the lower rams. If you don't do this you risk tearing the seals in the rams.

The engine bracket will also be in the water so get the clear anti fouling paint on both the bracket and "nose" of the engine.

Ray
 
I never knew this.I always tilted up the highest it would go and leave it.Did this for 5 seasons with my other boat (150 yammie 2 stroke)I had the ring in the hydraulic steering go in the 3rd season,but no other problems at all.
 
Hey guys,

I just bought a 2120 as well, and have been doing what John is doing. I just tilt the motor up as far as it will go and leave it. Should I not do this? Not sure I follow what you are sayin Ray. What are the rams and how do you retract them? Any info appreciated.

Thanks
 
I've got the 2120 with 2 stroke 150, and if my memory is correct (which is questionable), the working parts of the rams are above the water line on my setup. The bracket does need clear coat though as the lower part of it is in the water. There's a zinc there, so that's the first clue the bracket will be submerged. But if your tilt assembly is beneath the water line, it would be good idea to use the motor supports and retract the rams to be safe. I can see how barnacles can eventually attach to the rods, and you would risk damaging a seal.

I just did my scrapping to prep for bottom paint, and I don't recall any growth on the moving parts of the tilt assembly. Otherwise, I just full tilt my motor to trailer position and leave it there. No issues in this area going into my 4th season with it. Not saying that's the way to do it. Just that's how I've done it.

John
 
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