btuf23
Member
Hello everyone,
I’m not sure if anyone remembers me, but a while back I was interested in purchasing a 2003 2120 in my area and received a bunch of good advice from this site. I ended up pulling the trigger and have the boat almost prepped for the water! While getting a marine survey, it was noted that the fuel fill hose was cracked in a few spots and needed to be replaced. I ended up tackling the project this weekend and figured I would introduce myself (and new boat seen in pic 5 below
) and put together a step by step procedure for replacing the hose. I did a search and know there is some info already out there, however hopefully the enclosed procedure puts any doubts to rest and encourages others who are thinking about this to take it on. Overall it wasn’t too bad of a project, just took some time, patience, and a little muscle. Lets start:
Procedure to Replace Fuel Fill Hose on 2003 Parker 2120
Tools Needed
-Wide Flat head screw driver
-Phillips screwdriver
-Channel locks
-Scissors
-hose cutters
Equipment needed
-Duct tape
-8 ft of 1.5 inch diameter marine fuel fill hose (The boat will need 7.5 ft, but better to have too much then too little. The link below is for defender where I got my fuel hose)
-Four new hose clamps (optional. Inspect the condition of the ones currently on the boat first)
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=106386
1. The first step is to go to the cockpit area and remove the forward most access hatch for the fuel tank using the flat head screw driver. You will see the fill hose and smaller vent hose attached to the tank (as shown in picture 1 below).
2. Remove the two hose clamps on the fill hose with the flat head screw driver and move them out of the way. I tightened both of the hose clamps further down the hose so they didn’t keep sliding everywhere and they wouldn’t accidently fall off the hose once removed.
3. Use the channel locks to grab and twist the hose and break it lose from the barb. Remove the hose from the barb using a twisting and pulling motion (no pun intended) and the channel locks if necessary.
4. Once removed place a piece of duct tape immediately over the opening of the barb fitting to prevent any residue from entering the tank as shown in picture 2. Loosen the hose clamps and remove them from the fill hose. I ended up reusing my hose clamps because they were in good shape, but you may need to buy new ones depending on their condition.
5. The next step is to remove the bench seat in the cabin. On the 2003 model this was held in place by 6 deck screws, but this may change from year to year. Remove screws with the Phillips screwdriver and put the bench out of the way. I ended up removing a cushion and placing it in the middle of the v-berth for the time being.
6. Looking into the aft most portion of the cabin on the port side you will now see a 1.5 inch fill hose, looped vent hose, and green wire which grounds the tank fill (see picture 3). Using a flat head screw driver loosen the two hose clamps that secure the fill hose. To prevent them from falling down into the hull, re-tighten them on a lower portion of the hose so they are out of the way.
7. Using the channel locks, grip and twist the fill hose until it breaks loose from the metal fill barb.
8. Once loose remove the hose, loosen the hose clamps and remove them being careful not to drop them into the hull. You will see a small aluminum chain hanging from under the metal barb fitting (also shown in picture 3). I am assuming this is for a one way valve in the fill but don’t know exactly what it does.
9. Now comes the fun part. I cannot emphasize this enough... PULL THE HOSE FROM THE ACCESS HATCH IN THE COCKPIT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PULL THE HOSE FROM INSIDE THE CABIN AS IT WILL LIKELY GET STUCK. I learned this the hard way. Using the duct tape, tape the new hose to the old one. Be sure that the hoses are aligned as best as possible and that there is no gap between the edges of each hose. I wrapped around the joint a few times, overlapping about 3 inches of hose on each side of the joint, then placed a few 6 inch pieces along the length of the hoses. Finally I wrapped a few last pieces on either end to keep everything together. The object here should be to make a strong joint that leaves no gap between the hoses and makes a smooth transition from one hose to another. You do not want a joint that either leaves a gap between the hoses or leaves the hoses misaligned, as this will have a tendency to get hung up under the deck. Before taping the joint choose the smoother end of the new hose so it mates to the old one better. Picture 4 below shows the taped joint after I had pulled the new hose through the deck. I will say this again… PULL THE HOSE FROM THE ACCESS HATCH IN THE COCKPIT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PULL THE HOSE FROM INSIDE THE CABIN AS IT WILL LIKELY GET STUCK.
10. With a solid taped joint, begin to pull the old and new hose through the deck from the cockpit area. You will most likely need two people to complete this part of the process. You will also want the stronger person pushing from inside the cabin as it will be easier to pull from the deck. The person inside the cabin should focus on pushing the hose down into the glassed box area. You will have to get your arm in there and jabbed the hose down with some force as someone else pulls the hose out from the cockpit area. To get the process going easier, you may want to tape an object to the end of the hose under the cockpit hatch. This will give the person pulling something to grab on to until enough hose comes up from under the deck. We ended up using the channel locks and then removing them later.
11. Continue to pull the hose until you see the joint from the cockpit access hatch. If the hose gets hung up at any time back up and try again. Sometimes a twisting motion on both ends helped to keep the hose moving along. Once the hose joint is visible under the hatch, remove duct tape and old hose. Depending on how strong the duct tape is this may take some effort, especially with limited space under the access hatch. If you use scissors or a utility knife make sure you do not cut into the new hose! I ended up using a combination of unwrapping and cutting the tape with scissors.
12. Once the duct tape and old hose are removed, place two hose clamps on the new hose. As before you may want to tighten them out of the way so you don’t lose them. Remove the duct tape from the fuel tank barb and put the new hose on. You should have enough room to push the hose back a bit and then wiggle it on. At this point you may also opt to put some liquid sealant on the fitting. I did not do this however Im sure some people on here can recommend what to use. I may opt to put some sealant on at a later time, but I don’t anticipate any leaking issues with two hose clamps good and tight. Tighten the hose clamps well.
13. Repeat the same process for the hose connection in the cabin being sure the chain on the barb fitting does not get hung up between the hose and barb. As before, don’t forget to put the hose clamps back on the hose first. Depending on how much hose you have, you may need to use the hose cutters and clip the hose at this time. I ended up buying 7 ft of hose and got real lucky the guy gave me some extra. I had just enough to get on both fittings. As I mentioned before, the 2120 should take 7.5 ft of hose, so buy 8 ft and that should be enough.
14. Re-install the bench seat in the cabin using the 6 deck screws. Inspect the hatch areas for fuel smell and make sure the hose clamps are tight.
15. You are done!
I’m not sure if anyone remembers me, but a while back I was interested in purchasing a 2003 2120 in my area and received a bunch of good advice from this site. I ended up pulling the trigger and have the boat almost prepped for the water! While getting a marine survey, it was noted that the fuel fill hose was cracked in a few spots and needed to be replaced. I ended up tackling the project this weekend and figured I would introduce myself (and new boat seen in pic 5 below
) and put together a step by step procedure for replacing the hose. I did a search and know there is some info already out there, however hopefully the enclosed procedure puts any doubts to rest and encourages others who are thinking about this to take it on. Overall it wasn’t too bad of a project, just took some time, patience, and a little muscle. Lets start:Procedure to Replace Fuel Fill Hose on 2003 Parker 2120
Tools Needed
-Wide Flat head screw driver
-Phillips screwdriver
-Channel locks
-Scissors
-hose cutters
Equipment needed
-Duct tape
-8 ft of 1.5 inch diameter marine fuel fill hose (The boat will need 7.5 ft, but better to have too much then too little. The link below is for defender where I got my fuel hose)
-Four new hose clamps (optional. Inspect the condition of the ones currently on the boat first)
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=106386
1. The first step is to go to the cockpit area and remove the forward most access hatch for the fuel tank using the flat head screw driver. You will see the fill hose and smaller vent hose attached to the tank (as shown in picture 1 below).
2. Remove the two hose clamps on the fill hose with the flat head screw driver and move them out of the way. I tightened both of the hose clamps further down the hose so they didn’t keep sliding everywhere and they wouldn’t accidently fall off the hose once removed.
3. Use the channel locks to grab and twist the hose and break it lose from the barb. Remove the hose from the barb using a twisting and pulling motion (no pun intended
) and the channel locks if necessary. 4. Once removed place a piece of duct tape immediately over the opening of the barb fitting to prevent any residue from entering the tank as shown in picture 2. Loosen the hose clamps and remove them from the fill hose. I ended up reusing my hose clamps because they were in good shape, but you may need to buy new ones depending on their condition.
5. The next step is to remove the bench seat in the cabin. On the 2003 model this was held in place by 6 deck screws, but this may change from year to year. Remove screws with the Phillips screwdriver and put the bench out of the way. I ended up removing a cushion and placing it in the middle of the v-berth for the time being.
6. Looking into the aft most portion of the cabin on the port side you will now see a 1.5 inch fill hose, looped vent hose, and green wire which grounds the tank fill (see picture 3). Using a flat head screw driver loosen the two hose clamps that secure the fill hose. To prevent them from falling down into the hull, re-tighten them on a lower portion of the hose so they are out of the way.
7. Using the channel locks, grip and twist the fill hose until it breaks loose from the metal fill barb.
8. Once loose remove the hose, loosen the hose clamps and remove them being careful not to drop them into the hull. You will see a small aluminum chain hanging from under the metal barb fitting (also shown in picture 3). I am assuming this is for a one way valve in the fill but don’t know exactly what it does.
9. Now comes the fun part. I cannot emphasize this enough... PULL THE HOSE FROM THE ACCESS HATCH IN THE COCKPIT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PULL THE HOSE FROM INSIDE THE CABIN AS IT WILL LIKELY GET STUCK. I learned this the hard way. Using the duct tape, tape the new hose to the old one. Be sure that the hoses are aligned as best as possible and that there is no gap between the edges of each hose. I wrapped around the joint a few times, overlapping about 3 inches of hose on each side of the joint, then placed a few 6 inch pieces along the length of the hoses. Finally I wrapped a few last pieces on either end to keep everything together. The object here should be to make a strong joint that leaves no gap between the hoses and makes a smooth transition from one hose to another. You do not want a joint that either leaves a gap between the hoses or leaves the hoses misaligned, as this will have a tendency to get hung up under the deck. Before taping the joint choose the smoother end of the new hose so it mates to the old one better. Picture 4 below shows the taped joint after I had pulled the new hose through the deck. I will say this again… PULL THE HOSE FROM THE ACCESS HATCH IN THE COCKPIT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PULL THE HOSE FROM INSIDE THE CABIN AS IT WILL LIKELY GET STUCK.
10. With a solid taped joint, begin to pull the old and new hose through the deck from the cockpit area. You will most likely need two people to complete this part of the process. You will also want the stronger person pushing from inside the cabin as it will be easier to pull from the deck. The person inside the cabin should focus on pushing the hose down into the glassed box area. You will have to get your arm in there and jabbed the hose down with some force as someone else pulls the hose out from the cockpit area. To get the process going easier, you may want to tape an object to the end of the hose under the cockpit hatch. This will give the person pulling something to grab on to until enough hose comes up from under the deck. We ended up using the channel locks and then removing them later.
11. Continue to pull the hose until you see the joint from the cockpit access hatch. If the hose gets hung up at any time back up and try again. Sometimes a twisting motion on both ends helped to keep the hose moving along. Once the hose joint is visible under the hatch, remove duct tape and old hose. Depending on how strong the duct tape is this may take some effort, especially with limited space under the access hatch. If you use scissors or a utility knife make sure you do not cut into the new hose! I ended up using a combination of unwrapping and cutting the tape with scissors.
12. Once the duct tape and old hose are removed, place two hose clamps on the new hose. As before you may want to tighten them out of the way so you don’t lose them. Remove the duct tape from the fuel tank barb and put the new hose on. You should have enough room to push the hose back a bit and then wiggle it on. At this point you may also opt to put some liquid sealant on the fitting. I did not do this however Im sure some people on here can recommend what to use. I may opt to put some sealant on at a later time, but I don’t anticipate any leaking issues with two hose clamps good and tight. Tighten the hose clamps well.
13. Repeat the same process for the hose connection in the cabin being sure the chain on the barb fitting does not get hung up between the hose and barb. As before, don’t forget to put the hose clamps back on the hose first. Depending on how much hose you have, you may need to use the hose cutters and clip the hose at this time. I ended up buying 7 ft of hose and got real lucky the guy gave me some extra. I had just enough to get on both fittings. As I mentioned before, the 2120 should take 7.5 ft of hose, so buy 8 ft and that should be enough.
14. Re-install the bench seat in the cabin using the 6 deck screws. Inspect the hatch areas for fuel smell and make sure the hose clamps are tight.
15. You are done!
