Hardware staining and rust

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'' zero SS rust, and to this day has zero SS rust, was "Built In China" ! (well actually, Taiwan; that was very-much-more-so Chinese in 1986''

Taiwan is not China and their manufacturing culture is far more superior. I am sure even China can produce high quality SS but it costs much more. I remember my last Honda ever I bought around 2005. 8k later my rotors warped. Guess what? This car was from US plant with Chinese rotor parts. US steel nomenclature has twice amount of steel grades than Russian has and many times more than Chinese. Buy American or stop complaining :)
 
I’m considering applying a light coat of bottom paint to the underside of hardware.

any thoughts? Good or bad idea?
DO NOT do this. The bottom paint at best will not do anything to alleviate the issue and at worst may react with the metal. It's a no benefit, lots of potential harm issue.

Properly bedding the hardware in marine-grade sealant will have the same effect as coating the underside. This is the way to go. I recommend 3M 4200 for this application.
 
For incidental staining, I use Barkeeper’s Friend. Hose down the area, sprinkle on some Barkeeper’s Friend, scrub it with a brush, rinse well. Rinse again.

Barkeeper’s Friend will also remove the color from your clothes so either wash your boat while naked or wear clothes that you don’t care if they look spotted with bleach.

BKF is awesome. It strips wax. When you reach fir your BKF, put your Collonite 845 in the bucket too.
After rinsing the BKF off, hand dry and rewax immediately.
 
DO NOT do this. The bottom paint at best will not do anything to alleviate the issue and at worst may react with the metal. It's a no benefit, lots of potential harm issue.

Properly bedding the hardware in marine-grade sealant will have the same effect as coating the underside. This is the way to go. I recommend 3M 4200 for this application.

I have used 4200 on the fuel fill last year and the staining was back in about a weeks time.

I’m going to use butyl tape this time because I think I can form and control it better.
 
I have used 4200 on the fuel fill last year and the staining was back in about a weeks time.

I’m going to use butyl tape this time because I think I can form and control it better.

Another helpful tip: before I even splashed my new 2320, I waxed her with 2 coats 24 hrs apart.

. And I wiped every single piece of metal down with fluid film. I sprayed the motor with corrosion X and spray the trim tabs and every piece of hardware with fluid film. Furthermore once a month I wipe down all my hardware including the bow rail and cleats with fluid film. Anything we can do to protect our stainless in the marine environment has value.

I also spray the whole boat down with salt away when I came back in.
I open the cleats, spray them down and keep them up to dry. In fact, I store my boat on the lift w the cleats up.... I feel like the ventilation will help.
 
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I have used 4200 on the fuel fill last year and the staining was back in about a weeks time.

I’m going to use butyl tape this time because I think I can form and control it better.
Good idea with the butyl... I've used it on past boats. It's easy to work with, and the material stays flexible for years+. I removed, prepped, and re-bedded the 28+ windows, ports and hatches on our last boat with the butyl tape; love working with it. Still no leaks. (12+ years after the re-bedding).... On our Parker, I've used the butyl tape instead of caulk when I drill holes in the uppers, to seal bolts and screw holes. Easy to use. Less messy, and stays rubbery/flexible.
 
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So I decided to try something new.

while it could be possible that rust is from my well water I have examined the fuel fill and there is evidence of “micro”corrosion. So I cleaned up the fuel fill with some sand paper until it was all gone. Then I put a coating of epoxy on it to hopefully prevent any further corrosion “outbreaks

I did the same thing to the hardware on my second station.

fingers crossed this works.

I also epoxy coated the wood in the gunnal then put a coating of 4200.

I tried to reinstall the cleat with butyl tape. But I wasn’t impressed with the results (looked kind of rough) in all fairness it’s not the right tool for what I’m trying to achieve. So I’m still working through that little problem.
 

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