Help on storing boat for almost a year

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rangerdog

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2006
Messages
644
Reaction score
0
Location
Isle of Palms, SC/Fairfax, VA
So I am moving to Charleston, SC next June after I retire from the Government. We already have a house, bought in 2011 on IOP.

I need to put my boat away now in order to get my house here ready to go on the market next April. I plan on towing her down over Christmas. She will be sitting in my driveway here until then and in my driveway there until probably August next year.

I have done a full tune-up; all filters, new water pump, TStats, etc.

My plan is to drain the gas tank.
What is fogging? Does it need done?
How much does shrinkwrap cost?
She is eventually going in a marina. Should I wait to get the botton repainted until next summer?
Do I use dessicant under the shrinkwrap? Open the bilge? Take out batteries? (AGM Blue Tops)

Any help is good. Maybe there's something I am not thinking of? This should be good info for a how to/lessons learned discussion.

John
 
rangerdog":pdogh8v0 said:
My plan is to drain the gas tank.
Probably a good idea, but before you do, treat the fuel that is in there with StaBil, Star*Tron, and Ringfree then run it long enough to distribute everything through the filters and the motor.
Even with those amendments in the fuel, it will be safe to burn in your truck.

rangerdog":pdogh8v0 said:
What is fogging? Does it need done?
Fogging oil is introduced (sprayed) into the air intake(s) which then leaves a protective coating on the top end.
When you fog, you want to spray a generous amount in all of the intakes until the motor practically stalls, then shut her down.
Be forewarned that wherever you perform the fogging, the motor will smoke like a skeeter fogger.
If you have neighbors close by, warn them first. Yes, she will smoke. :)

rangerdog":pdogh8v0 said:
How much does shrinkwrap cost?
Depends on the area where you live, but generally about $15/ft depending on the mil thickness.
When you have it done, tell the company about your length of storage.
Ask for an access door, a little extra height from the wood supports (so you can work inside), and double the number of vents they typically include.
They should run the shrink down to cover the hull sides to about the bottom paint line.

rangerdog":pdogh8v0 said:
She is eventually going in a marina. Should I wait to get the botton repainted until next summer?
I would.

rangerdog":pdogh8v0 said:
Do I use dessicant under the shrinkwrap? Open the bilge? Take out batteries? (AGM Blue Tops)
Desiccant is fine, but venting and airflow is WAY better.
Open every single deck hatch, door, window, cubby... and leave nothing closed in. Let her breathe.

Personally, I would not remove AGM batteries. AGM's typically loose very little stored power in storage with no current draw.
I had AGM Blue-Tops in my boat for 8 years and never took them out for winter.
Charge them up before storing her in your driveway, and again 5 or 6 months later down in FL.
Top them off again before you launch, and you should be good.

Consider blocking your trailer under the frame in the driveway to take weight off of your tires and springs.
Consider covering your tires with sun shades, especially in FL.

I envy you. :wink:
 
FUEL – I’d treat heavily with Startron (use diesel formula, is twice as concentrated so you get more for the $$, but use only half the recommended dose) and Stabil (E10 formula if ethanol fuel) then run the boat for a good 15-30 minutes, preferably NOT on muffs. I would also fog with fogging fluid into the air passenges into the OB (some require the air silencer to be removed) and would run the motor DRY if using ethanol fuel.

FUEL TANK – I’d pump her dry if ethanol fuel or would add PRI-G if standard fuel, but would get as empty as possible. Before starting, add 10-20 gallons of high octane fuel.

MOTOR – Then remove plugs, remove ignition kill ‘safety’ lanyard and spray fogging fluid into cylinders. Leave plugs out, just touch ign key to crank and move the cylinders, then spray more and put plugs bck in. Clean OB under hood and spray lube to moving parts and corrosion block where needed.

COVER – I despise shrink warp, but if you use it, pay the extra and add multiple vents and the access door, as I have seen MANY boat become a mildew infestation pandemic site when closed up TOO tight! If it were my boat, I’d add a tall A-frame to the hull superstructure and would place one big cover over it (You can buy a white tarp! See tarpsonline or tarpsplus) with the ends open to allow wind and breezes to flow freely through the hull. I’d also open all transom, bilge and storage hatches to prevent build-up of condensation.

TRAILER – I’d lower the tongue, block up the rear frame and then jack the front of the trailer up to get most, if not all, of the weight off the axles and bearings.

OTHER - In cold (freezing) climates I advocate complete removal and would probably remove them and anything else just to prevent theft!

TIP – The cleaner the boat is now … the easier she will be to clean up once the covers come off. Ask me how I know … ;) ?
 
add Beckson internal port window vents (inexpensive)
remove all cushions and seats (if possible)

You look for indoor RV storage space but will cost more.

Looks at breathable RV covers.

Someone had Fishers Canvas on East coast made a cover and they did an excellent professional job
It is posted in the Projects


We keep our boat in SW Florida and this yr built a lift with a canopy and visit about every 3 -4 months
this made a big difference

Dale added inverted P trap to pie plate for ventilation . I took a solar fan from Amazon and added to an extra pie plate. It works great and costs less than $60
 
All good advise, one more thing: run some non-tox anti-freeze through your bilge pumps and hoses, and any other plumbing you might have on board. I've seen some crack in real cold weather.
 
TWOBOATER":2xnn9kug said:
All good advise, one more thing: run some non-tox anti-freeze through your bilge pumps and hoses, and any other plumbing you might have on board. I've seen some crack in real cold weather.
Good points! And lubricate then leave sea clocks open, plus hull drain plug out ...
 
I'd also store with prop off (due to theft) and OB in vertical position so the hub doesn't fill up w/ water and freeze/crack.
 
Brent":2smiwu43 said:
Add insect and rodent bait traps
No help for varmints

I use mothballs in open tupperware containers in my collector car over her winter layup.
Spiders and mice don't like mothballs. :)
 
Back
Top