052520":97chvq0x said:
That's kinda why I was asking the question as i want to buy the lightest trailer I need.
That might very well be an extremely foolish decision ... if you had an accident and it was investigated,
you risk losing ALL insurances .. on your tow vehicle, your boat, the other vehicle (if you are found at fault) ... as well as anything medical expense related. Even if you retained some coverage, you might also be opening yourself up to a suit.
I believe the "dry weights' posted from ~20-years ago were for the hull only, with windows, deck hardware, door, hatches, and such, but no motor-related gear (cables, controls, harnesses, batteries, etc. ...
though I have no proof of that).
Look at this post for how it can all ADD up big-time! See:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3851
FWIW I launch at a ramp 75' away, so like you I haul twice a year if lucky (meaning no more than twice, haha). But I at least use a 7500# trailer, which is likely right about where it weighs. I also remove anything I can when or if it needs to be towed. Now, when I had to take it on the highway to get it repowered, I hired a professional hauler, so it was on their insurance and their responsibility.
Personally I'd find a good used one with a rating at least 8K if you're subbing out the haul. My hauler has always inspected my trailer, but has never questioned the weight, so where I had a towing contract, that put the onus back on him as he accepted the haul.
But you say "to FL and back" with no details of where 'back' is. So, if a long-distance tow on highways, I'd still go heavier vs. lighter ...