How to remove 3m 5200????

[Porkchunker]

I mentioned in a previous thread that I had blown a gear out of my Lewmar Horizon 500 windlass and that I needed to replace it.

New windlass came in last week. I went to the boat with full intention of removing the failed one and installing the new one. But...not so fast.

The three bolts were removed easily from inside the chain locker...however, the windlass refused to budge. I think it is sealed down with an adhesive...either 3M 4200 or 5200.

If it is 5200, how do I get this windlass off without taking half the bow pulpit surface off with it?

 

[Megabyte]

Dave, 3M makes a product called anti-bond (or something like that) that is a solvent specifically made for 3M 5200 removal.
Boaters World or West Marine should have it.

 

[Porkchunker]

Posted the same question on TheHullTruth, and once I sorted out the dynamite, jackhammer, chainsaw comments, someone gave a pointer to Anti-Bond. http://www.boatersworld.com/product/376970950.htm

I posted the same question to Robin at Parker Marine Inc., to see if they bed the windlass in 5200, and if so, how to remove it.

 

[Megabyte]

Yea... The comments on THT can be all over the map on any given day. :roll:

 

[gw204]

Liquid Nails makes a product called Adhesive & Caulk Remover. It comes in a white squeeze tube with a purple label. I've used it on 5200 before with great success. You should be able to find it at pretty much any hardware store. Much cheaper than the Anti-Bond stuff...

 

[DaleH]

Liquid Nails makes a product called Adhesive & Caulk Remover. It comes in a white squeeze tube with a purple label. I've used it on 5200 before with great success. You should be able to find it at pretty much any hardware store. Much cheaper than the Anti-Bond stuff...

that's good to know. I have used the Anti-Bond 2015 product and it did work.

Dave - you need a sharp knife and keep working the solvent in and under the item. On an OB bracket, we actually used thin SS wire attached to 2 wooden handles.

 

[Porkchunker]

Ok...purchased some Anti-Bond and pumped some out around the windlass yesterday before going on a fishing trip. Let it work all day long. Will go back this coming weekend with some oak wedges (per the recommendation of Erich at Parker Marine) and see if I can get her off.

BTW, Harvey at Tri-State provided similar guidance...use plastic wedges. I notice the absence of guidance to use wide chisels...only wood and plastic. Since I have some oak laying around, I'll run it through the saw and make several. I'll assume that it may take more than one.

 

[Porkchunker]

Made the oak wedges. This weekend is the target to replace the windlass. If successful, I'll capture the task with the digital camera and start a new thread about it.

 

[jdbic]

You know, I didn't think to take pictures of before and after. I added a windlass to my 2310. It was some project, had to fill where the hatch was. It's not pretty but it works.

 

[ackvor]

I had to remove my radome which was set on top of my hardtop, bedded in 5200. I used some high test fishing line and wire leader to "saw" through it. I was able to remove in and then clean up the 5200 with above mentioned solvents.

Jake

 

[Porkchunker]

Thanks to all.

The 5200 (worst of my fears) turned out to be 4000, which was more pliable and easy to break loose. See my other tread on this: http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB2/vie ... php?t=1016