Hull difference ?

[raysbigfish]

How can I visibly , tell the difference between a Parker deep V and a modified V.

 

[DaleH]

I always look for the sharper entry and more pronounce SWEEP to the running chines down the bottom. Or, looking from the stern is best .

 

[BoatGirl]

The MV hull has one lifting strake and comes to a 'v' under the drain at the transom.
The DV hull has two lifting strakes and has a flat surface under the drain at the transom.

 

[DaleH]

The MV hull has one lifting strake and comes to a 'v' under the drain at the transom.
The DV hull has two lifting strakes and has a flat surface under the drain at the transom.

GREAT tip ... never put that together. Here are the photos Ray sent me.

 

[grouperjim]

Looks to me to be the DV 21 degree deadrise.

As a matter of fact, the Classic Parker alternating logo in the upper left corner of this screen shows a DV pilot house, and Mod V (shallow V) center console.

jim

 

[hakr]

Looks to me to be the DV 21 degree deadrise.

As a matter of fact, the Classic Parker alternating logo in the upper left corner of this screen shows a DV pilot house, and Mod V (shallow V) center console.

jim

Why the flat spot at the transom?

 

[grouperjim]

The flat spot (pad) provides much needed stern lift, which in turn makes a DV hull more efficient when on on plane.

I know for sure that Jupiter has also designed some of their performance hulls with the "pad." Greater speed/less power.

Also, that flat spot is absolutely the best place to cut in a shoot-thru-the hull transducer.

jim

 

[hakr]

The flat spot (pad) provides much needed stern lift, which in turn makes a DV hull more efficient when on on plane.

I know for sure that Jupiter has also designed some of their performance hulls with the "pad." Greater speed/less power.

Also, that flat spot is absolutely the best place to cut in a shoot-thru-the hull transducer.

jim

Thanks...is that solid fiberglass right there? Seems a likely spot for a genuine cut a hole through the bottom of the boat transducer, too.

 

[grouperjim]

The raised area that you see inside the bilge there, is a piece of glassed in 1/2 inch plywood. Basically there to screw in bilge components which will be moved over to make room for the transducer. Under the plywood is a 3/16 inch airspace, then clean fiberglass.

Lay your transducer down on the starboard fwd corner and trace around it. Rotozip or drimmel out the plywood. Then cut out 1/4 inch deep tray into the clean glass. Use a shop vac near the cutting tool to control the dust. 5200 the gap to seal the airspace under the plywood. Rough up the tray with some 400 wet or dry. Hit it with a shop vac, wipe out with Styrene and a lint free cloth, then set the plastic transducer of your choice using resin. I use gelcoat with weak mix of hardner (to not melt the plastic) and cure overnight with a drop light hanging in the bilge.

Because fiberglass is denser than water, it is actually a better conductor of sound. IMO it is better to shoot thru a perfectly flat/smooth clean piece of glass than to have anything protrude past the glass and create turbulance.

jim