I'm done with this (!) Ox66 motor! (repower with Honda 225?)

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SBH2OMan

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I've searched and found one thread here about re-powering with the Honda BF225. I'm curious to hear from those of you with 2320 (or 2330) or a 2520 DV, etc. about performance, fuel consumption, and weight.

Right now, with a Tohatsu 9.8 kicker on the back (and the two batteries in the transom) and the Ox66 250, the boat lists pretty hard to starboard (the side the kicker is on) and that ping pong scupper sits under water when the boat is 1/2 full of fuel and no passengers. The port side Scupper rides just barely above the water. The Ox66 weighs about 500 lbs according to what I've read. We average about 1.7 to 2.1 mpg (when the damned thing is running).

I'm concerned adding another 110 lbs back there will really sink the back end badly

I'm concerned the 225 will feel gutless compared to the 250 OX66

I'm assuming the 2320 would get about 3.4 mpg with the BF225

I have figured out, however, that we only need to use the boat 135 miles per month on average (less than 2 typical island trips) to actually pay for the repower in fuel and oil at $4.50 a gallon gas. This is assuming Honda's 2.99% interest and a 60-month term.

I'm considering the Honda for two reasons - 1) the only local shop carries and works on Honda motors. more and more local boats have them and 2) the 5-year warranty and the things I've heard about Honda support versus Yamaha support make me lean toward the Honda. I don't care for the local Yamaha dealer based on my limited experience with them.

Thanks in advance for any and all helpful comments!
 
Nothing wrong with Honda motors as they are very reliable, but as you probably already know... they are heavy beasts.
If you do re-power, do you think that you still need the kicker? That could reduce your transom load if it were removed.

Not sure what the issues are with your OX66, but my 1997 model runs like a swiss watch.
Could it be that your dealer / mechanic isn't up to speed on servicing that motor?
 
Megabyte":2s6xi8vq said:
Nothing wrong with Honda motors as they are very reliable, but as you probably already know... they are heavy beasts.
If you do re-power, do you think that you still need the kicker? That could reduce your transom load if it were removed.

Not sure what the issues are with your OX66, but my 1997 model runs like a swiss watch.
Could it be that your dealer / mechanic isn't up to speed on servicing that motor?

There is no one in 500 miles of me that has a clue about this motor. Apparently they are like Ferraris; when they run well they run well, but it takes someone that understands all the idiosyncrasies and "undocumented procedures". The factory service manual is of very limited help unfortunately. I'm practically willing to fly a competent mechanic here and put them up in a hotel if they could make this thing reliable!
 
Sounds like the kicker may be unnecessary. With a newer 4stroke, your first problem you encounter will likely be fuel related. Assuming you run your kicker off the same fuel source, that will hit issues too. But a new 4 stroke, used "somewhat" weekly, and proper fuel additives, and a sea tow membership - ALL GOOD.
 
pmeggers":mpxukns4 said:
Sounds like the kicker may be unnecessary. With a newer 4stroke, your first problem you encounter will likely be fuel related. Assuming you run your kicker off the same fuel source, that will hit issues too. But a new 4 stroke, used "somewhat" weekly, and proper fuel additives, and a sea tow membership - ALL GOOD.

Yep, kinda what I'm thinking, too - there's 100 lbs right there. (and a cause of the listing to starboard). Nice to have for keeping the hours off the main engine, but we don't really troll that much and dropping the aux into the water and strapping it up, etc is really a pain in the butt.
 
just repowered my 2320 with a 225 honda.so far very pleased.right now i am prop testing so i dont have many numbers yet.only thing i lost switching from a 2 stroke was a little top end.any suggestions on props to try .
 
hammered":2mnwbgpf said:
just repowered my 2320 with a 225 honda.so far very pleased.right now i am prop testing so i dont have many numbers yet.only thing i lost switching from a 2 stroke was a little top end.any suggestions on props to try .
Nice going! Contact Ken @ www.propgods.com , as he sold B-Faithful and I 4-blade Powertech props for our 225hp motors ... his a Honda 225 4-stroke and mine an old dirty OMC 2-stroke.
 
DaleH":66y4ypli said:
hammered":66y4ypli said:
just repowered my 2320 with a 225 honda.so far very pleased.right now i am prop testing so i dont have many numbers yet.only thing i lost switching from a 2 stroke was a little top end.any suggestions on props to try .
Nice going! Contact Ken @ http://www.propgods.com , as he sold B-Faithful and I 4-blade Powertech props for our 225hp motors ... his a Honda 225 4-stroke and mine an old dirty OMC 2-stroke.

Gregs 27 Judge and your Parker should be about the same weight.
I'd start with what he has first, then work from there.
 
Brent - have you talked to Eric about a Suzuki DF250? That is the engine I think would push our boats best - it swings the larger prop and should have a good deal more punch than the Honda. Having said that...later this year the Honda BF250 is supposed to be launched. I've only heard the hype from the boat shows earlier in the year but it sounds good - lighter, faster, strong...yada yada. I may be waiting til then to repower my 2320...my carbed Yamaha 2-stroke burns even more fuel than yours does. Ouch.

Craig.
 
sabalo":6x4gfd5w said:
Brent - have you talked to Eric about a Suzuki DF250? That is the engine I think would push our boats best - it swings the larger prop and should have a good deal more punch than the Honda. Having said that...later this year the Honda BF250 is supposed to be launched. I've only heard the hype from the boat shows earlier in the year but it sounds good - lighter, faster, strong...yada yada. I may be waiting til then to repower my 2320...my carbed Yamaha 2-stroke burns even more fuel than yours does. Ouch.

Craig.

I don't think Eric sells Suzuki. I definitely like the warranty on the Honda motors.
 
i have been very happy with my 2009 Honda 225. I have over 600 hours on her and it has never left me stranded. I have had to replace the 02 sensor but honda sent me something in the mail saying they had a bad batch and they extended the warranty on the new on. Honda comes with 5 year factory non-declining warranty. I personally chose my motor over a 250 zuke at the same price and have been satisfied. I mostly chose the honda due to the warranty and fact that BOE marine, who is close to me, could do the service work.
 
SBH2OMan":1wruawtp said:
Megabyte":1wruawtp said:
Nothing wrong with Honda motors as they are very reliable, but as you probably already know... they are heavy beasts.
If you do re-power, do you think that you still need the kicker? That could reduce your transom load if it were removed.

Not sure what the issues are with your OX66, but my 1997 model runs like a swiss watch.
Could it be that your dealer / mechanic isn't up to speed on servicing that motor?

There is no one in 500 miles of me that has a clue about this motor. Apparently they are like Ferraris; when they run well they run well, but it takes someone that understands all the idiosyncrasies and "undocumented procedures". The factory service manual is of very limited help unfortunately. I'm practically willing to fly a competent mechanic here and put them up in a hotel if they could make this thing reliable!
Not for anything but the ox66 series is one of the easist motors to maintain keep up on fuel system and o2 and they are trouble free. You don't need a mechanic for this stuff, if you can turn a wrench you are qualified to work on them.
 
Parker23":3lnsuwaz said:
Not for anything but the ox66 series is one of the easist motors to maintain keep up on fuel system and o2 and they are trouble free. You don't need a mechanic for this stuff, if you can turn a wrench you are qualified to work on them.

This has definitely not been my experience, and I am a pretty sharp guy and pretty handy with a wrench, voltmeter, and a good manual. I think you have just been lucky. :)
 
Your boat is heavy, I would not look at anything under 250 hp, preferably a 300. The scupper issue will only be worse with a 4 stroke. You need more floatation in your bracket with the current motor, the 4 stroke will need more. To do this right you will need a different bracket, I would strongly suggest one with the most flotation that will work on the boat.
 
samsims":5or2ck16 said:
Your boat is heavy, I would not look at anything under 250 hp, preferably a 300. The scupper issue will only be worse with a 4 stroke. You need more floatation in your bracket with the current motor, the 4 stroke will need more. To do this right you will need a different bracket, I would strongly suggest one with the most flotation that will work on the boat.

There's no doubt that the butt-end of this boat is too heavy (it ships water just sitting at the dock with no passengers or gear on board). However, the way I figure it, with a new 4-stroke, I could get rid of the 100 lbs auxiliary/trolling motor and actually save a few pounds in the process...

Ripping out the bracket and replacing it would turn this into a project that would make twice as little sense as re-powering it...
 
SBH2OMan":1d21s40n said:
There's no doubt that the butt-end of this boat is too heavy (it ships water just sitting at the dock with no passengers or gear on board). However, the way I figure it, with a new 4-stroke, I could get rid of the 100 lbs auxiliary/trolling motor and actually save a few pounds in the process...

Ripping out the bracket and replacing it would turn this into a project that would make twice as little sense as re-powering it...

Might be easier than you think, modifying the existing bracket, adding some flotation tanks, don't NEED to buy a NEW bracket, might not even have to remove the old one. The additional floatation makes a huge difference, I have the same hull, added 400lbs of floatation to the factory bracket, they should come front the factory with more floatation imo.
 
samsims":v59dixzs said:
Might be easier than you think, modifying the existing bracket, adding some flotation tanks, don't NEED to buy a NEW bracket, might not even have to remove the old one. The additional floatation makes a huge difference, I have the same hull, added 400lbs of floatation to the factory bracket, they should come front he factory with more floatation imo.
OK, now you have me curious. How did you add floatation to the bracket? By adding pontoons of some sort? More width isn't an option for me because of the swim step on the port side...
 
SBH2OMan":1swm7ljk said:
OK, now you have me curious. How did you add floatation to the bracket? By adding pontoons of some sort? More width isn't an option for me because of the swim step on the port side...

Glass over foam core boxes added to both sides of the factory bracket box.

tankr.jpg


tankl.jpg
 
Ah. I wish I had that style of bracket. Mine is the single one with no platform on top (the old one?) from Stainless Marine. Not sure if it has more floatation than yours or not.

Thanks for the pix, though. There is not a way for me to do that sort of thing with ours, unfortunately.
 
Have you considered rigging requirements for different motors? On the weight issue, since you are spending a lot on repowering and don't want it on the bottom of the ocean you may consider a new bracket. At least price one to see if it would be feasible, another 10-20% the cost of repowering may be worth some added safety!
 
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