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Installing tabs

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Neckbone

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My Saturday project is going to be installing my new to me Lenco trim tabs, thanks to susqking who practically gave them to me. I just have a few questions before I start.

Does anyone have any good tips on installation? Do I need to wet out the small screw holes with epoxy before installing screws or will 5200 work well? I know I need to do it for the bigger hole I will drill to pass the power wire through. I plan to use 5200 to bed everything, partially tightening first, then letting the 5200 set up a little and then tightening it down.

Now for the switch. There are two different size wires connected to the switch. One is 12ga, and the other, I believe is around 16ga. I am planning on replacing them while they're easy to get to. My question is this. Can I replace the 16ga w/ 12ga wire? I already have plenty of 12ga, but would have to get some 16ga.

I think that's enough questions to start. And of course, I'll burn the memories on film.
 

DaleH

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Neckbone":3vb39sow said:
Does anyone have any good tips on installation?
Go slow and measure everything TWICE. Also, BEFORE drilling the large hole through the transom for the actuator wiring, take some measurements from some fixed point that's common to the outside AND inside of the hull to where you need to drill through. For example, the hole will be 18" to the outside of the boat and down 3" from the top outboard motor mounting bolt. Go to the inside of the transom and make sure there is no structural member of the deck/floor, knee, or some other support in the way. You need a clean hole through and I've seen people just drill through without worrying about where/what the drill is going into. Also make sure you're not going to drill into any existing wiring or device.

Another area to watch for is the height of the actuator, not just for that hole described above, but in case it's "too high" and hits a swim platform. Some boats need to "U" notch the swim platform for the actuator to fit.

Does Lenco have any installation guides on line? Read through them.

Do I need to wet out the small screw holes with epoxy before installing screws or will 5200 work well?
I'd wet them out if I were you, and if it were my boat. But before you wet them out, make darn sure you drilled the pilot hole for the screw to the correct size. Also countersink the hole too, before stepping up in drill sizes. I put another long post in the Projects board on drilling into FRP.

Given you have a So'wester, I wouldn't be surprised if the wood comes out a little damp. That would be VERY common on an older hull. If just damp, nothing to worry about, would take 30 years for saltwater to rot the wood in a Parker transom, though not sure what they used before.

While I usually stay away from West Marine due to wicked high prices, they do have some things that are valuable to buy when needed. They make this 2-part penetrating epoxy kit you see below that sells for $22. Get that and a syringe and it works great, an easy 2:1 ratio too, so DON'T mix the entire batch, go with small amounts. I just use small cat food tins and you won't need much, just keep putting some in and try to get the tip of the syringe to the back of the hole, or put a small coffee straw onto the end to act like a nozzle. Some will drip out, but go slow, and move from hole to hole. Wait 45 mins to an hour and do it again, then let it set. Doing this will add a half-day or more "delay" to your install (check the cure time), but it will be done right and will protect your core.



I use 5200 all the time below the waterline. When putting screws in, I wax them first by running the threads over/through a candle and then wiping off the excess wax. This allows the 5200 to firm up around it, but acts as a release agent in case you would ever need to remove the screws. Now, if any flat plate is adhered to the hull, you could use 3M 4200 or else go with the 5200. But you will need to use Anti-Bond 2015 solvent to cut that 5200 if you ever need to remove that plate, or it will never come off without hurting the glass.

Can I replace the 16ga w/ 12ga wire?
Sure, you can always go down in wire size (provided the terminals will still fit to the connection) ... just not the opposite.
 

Neckbone

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Thanks for those tips, Dale. Your remarks about the transom puts my mind as ease a little. I was worried about what to do if it were damp. However, I have gone over the entire transom especially around where screws went in with a hammer and everything sounds very solid, no dead thuds. Something I'm very happy with on a 23 year old hull.
 

Neckbone

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Another quick ?. I am going to have to move my transducer. What should I use to fill the holes? Do I need to thicken the epoxy or will unthickened stuff work on the screw holes. I think I'm going to test the td in the bilge and try to move it there.
 

DaleH

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Neckbone":18zf2p8k said:
What should I use to fill the holes? Do I need to thicken the epoxy or will unthickened stuff work on the screw holes. I think I'm going to test the td in the bilge and try to move it there.
I'd wet those out first with that thinned stuff, a few times as stated, and once it "kicked" tha last time (means epoxy is setting but not hardened) I'd put in epoxy of mayonise to peanut butter consistency.

In fact, I usually do that as two steps, thinner, but not thin, to allow it to get to the back of the hole, and then thickened ... but that's my anality, since I have lots of epoxy & thickener products on hand. You could also use Marine-tex for this (I HATE their mixing regimen) or that 2-part epoxy stick, see below,


Roughen up the hole/area too so that in addition to the chemical bond you also get a mechanical bond.
 

Neckbone

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Anality. That's a new one for me. :lol: I'm not quite that bad, but close. When I do something, I tend to overdo it. I just replaced my battery cables from the engines to battery and I'll then run to my console to a terminal block. My previous cables were corroded and melting/smoking when trying to crank my engines. Instead of 1 or 2 ga cable, which would have been fine, I went with 1/0. I figure, much better to be too big than too small and having it melt, smoke and a fire hazard.
 

Neckbone

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Here's another question. Do I need to remove the bottom paint where the tabs will go? Or can I just install them over the existing bottom paint?
 

DaleH

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I'd remove the paint for the best seal of the goop to the plate ...
 

Neckbone

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Installing tabs is very straight forward and simple. I'll also say that installing tabs by yourself is not easy. It should be about a 2-3 hours job with a helper. However, with one, I'm going to make it a two day job. Of course, that also includes epoxying some existing holes and waiting for that to dry, which added about an hour.

Right now, the tabs are on. I still have to drill the holes for the actuators and install them. It shouldn't take more than a couple hours tomorrow.

Also, this was my first real experience with 5200. Damn!!! That stuff is messy and sticky!!!!

I'll post some pictures later tonight.
 

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Neckbone":2k0ejdj8 said:
this was my first real experience with 5200. Damn!!! That stuff is messy and sticky!!!!
That it is brother! That it is... :shock:
 

Neckbone

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Now, we've got some pics. I still have to take some of the finished product, but I'll post them tomorrow.

I gotta remember to post pictures in reverse of how I want them to show. :?
 

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Neckbone

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Finallly. The finished product. Haven't tried them out yet. Seems something always comes up and I can't get the boat down to the landing. But, I know they do work, so I'm sure they'll be awesome!!!


OH, and the same weekend I installed the tabs, I went over to the dark side. I can honestly say, Dam!!! These things are comfortable.
 

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DaleH

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Whoa .. look at all the holes :shock: you drilled into your ... errr, footware .. when you drilled all those holes for your tabs ... :shock:
 
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